ehaque

My first roll of Agfa APX 400 (120) through Pentacon Six came out foggy a few days ago. I used fresh fixer and developer. I never had this problem with 35mm film. The whole roll is consistently foggy everywhere. I will show you a comparison between clear 35mm and that foggy 120. I will have to try fixing it again as advised.<div></div>

Roony is just a fat little bully, he shoves like girls.

Brazil lost cause they don't play physical like France. And also cause they played like drunken idiots.

I use all the same equipment as you, even bought tri-x in bulk. But no Rodinol, was thinking about buying that.

 

I think it might be your scanner. My Dual IV can screw up the tones and make the image look like its made out of just white and one shade of grey. I don't know why it happens to only some frames. But it almost stopped happening to me since I started to scan at 16 bit in b&w mode.

 

BUT.. it still happens sometimes when I scan my friend's Tri-x done in Rodinol. You should scan those b&w negs in colour mode, then just pull saturation to zero. If the image looks good then you know its the scanner messing up in b&w mode.

Wow, So Viewsonic is out? What brands are the bests in LCD? I'm in the same situation.

Lots of useful information, thanks all of you. I think I have an idea now. I'm just going to have to 'feel' it before I use it.

 

I really like DD-X's result, but never used a powder dev, so I can't compare. I'm going to think about switching to powder.

DD-X Stock solution lasts forever? How so? And how should the solution be made? I'm using DD-X but it lasts 3 months and I dont develop that often and the 1L bottle goes to waste sometimes.

Ok after searching here I got even more confused, no one says the same

thing.

 

On the bottle of Ilford DD-X it says the life time is 3 months (half

full tightly capped), on the .pdf file from Ilford's web site it says

6 months (half full tightly capped).. Which is right?

 

Ilfosol S has (written on bottle) 4 months (half full tightly capped)

and some people here saying it says 6 months.

 

Why does such "facts" differ so much? Isn't it ridiculous?

 

I use both, and I dont know what to believe, when to stop using them

and throw them out.

Nobody can offer a 3200dpi sample scan? I'm looking for it too.

Hmm, couldn't find a better place for this question so here it goes.

 

I just can't seem be able to twist the reel and adjust it to take 120

film, they say you have to twist clockwise but it goes to a point i

feel the edge will break under pressure in my hand and it still

doesn't move a bit. How am I suppose to do this exactly? If any of you

know please help.

Thanks all, but I think most of you are missing my point. I asked how digital cameras manage to respond to the blue-end and the red-end of the spectrum differently like non-pan film does, where red appears very dark.

<p>

The question is: Does blue sky appear black when you use a red filter with the b&w mode? OR, Does a red hat or shirt appear black (with no filter)?

<p>

See this: <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/edscott/pss00030.htm">http://www.photo.net/photo/edscott/pss00030.htm</a>

I did search, nothing came up concerning the blue biased sensitivity of digital sensors.

 

So G5 renders the reds dark?

Ah, I knew it. Digital cannot imitate b&w film without a lot of post work.

 

Thanks for the reply. :)

I am wondering how does the b&w mode on digital cameras behave in

relation to b&w films? (e.g. Ilford HP5+)

 

As I understand these films are sensitive to the blue end of the

spectrum, and don't register the red end so much.

 

How does the digital cameras mimic this? or do all digital cameras

produce results similar to that of panchromatic film?

 

Plus I would like to know if any nikon or canon cameras such as

Coolpix 5700, 8700; Powershot G5, G6, do. And what about the dSLRs?

 

I'm looking for a moderately priced digital camera that will closely

mimic silver process films (except the panchromatic ones), in b&w mode.

 

I don't see any information about this anywhere.

I am new at this too. I did one roll of HP5+ at 400 in Ilfosol S, it was grainier than I expected. But When I pushed HP5 to 3200 and deved it in DD-X it was really good and you cant get that with Ilofosol. Here is an example: HP5 at 3200 in DD-X. :)<div></div>

Thanks all. The search is really broken, Only useful thing I found was the Bob Atkins review.

 

I don't want a prime as my main street work really, specially where people and fleeting moments are concerned at least.

 

I was first looking at EF 135mm 2.8 soft focus lens, which would be useful in almost all type of work, even macro, using extensions. But recent experience shooting at a street festival with my 50mm 1.8 prooved the need for a zoom as you can not move about quickly enough in a crowd.

So, I want to get this lens for street shooting. IS and ring USM

should help with quick reflex shots and it has a photodo.com rating or

3.5 which should be good enough for street work, right?

 

If anyone used this lens, I would like to know how is the sharpness

compared to EF 50mm 1.8 lens. This article by Bob Atkins

http://bobatkins.photo.net/photography/reviews/28zooms.html convinces

me it should be sharp enough for street type work. Is it?

 

I can't afford L lenses, pity.

 

(Actually I would like to get a similar priced 28-200 or something

with similar quality. But this one seems to be only choice.)

LEX: Thanks a lot! :)

 

BERNARD: Actually I wanted to know exactly the things you said, but avoided asking too many different types of questions. So thank you tons!

 

I read discussions about stop bath being safely done with just water, but didnt know HP5 is specially good for that.

I have HP5+, Ilfosol S, Ilford Rapid Fixer and Ilfotol.

 

 

But I couldn't find Ilfostop so I bought Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, is

there any issues of incompatibility or do they work together just

fine? I'm just starting to develope film, So I'm concerend about

undesired reactions between two different brand chemicals. any info

will be very helpful. Thank you for your help.

ROBERT:

 

Thank you so much for the info on Delta 400, I've been meaning to find out what film gives you a contrasty S curve look. I love that, and I seem to love the T-grain films too.

A quote from 'ilfotecd.pdf'

<p>

"<b>ILFORD ILFOTEC DD-X</b><br>

ILFORD ILFOTEC DD-X is an excellent fine grain

developer which gives full film speed. It produces

negatives which are easy to print..."

</p>

What is this "full film speed"?

Oh I'm not a beginer at photography, lol. I'm sorry it seemed like that. I'm just totally new to darkroom work.

 

By film speed I meant ILFORD pdf files about their developers say things like, "this gives full film speed", and they say just that much, what is this speed? How does a developer has anything to do with film speed unless we are talking about ISO?

... And I'm talking about Fuji Superia X-tra 400 mainly.

I found the problem is Photoshop's desat technique. It doesn't give you an authentic b&w film look. I tried scanning colour negs as b&w and voila it looked just like b&w film, tones and all.

Blacks is no where near pro as they claim. The take care of the film but their printing is way off often times. AND charges more than the real pro labs.

 

The pro labs I know are:

http://www.steichenlab.com/index.html

http://www.pikto.ca/

http://www.torontoimageworks.com/

 

They all have cheap scanning options during processing of the film.

 

Hope it helps.

Film Developement confusions.

---------------

 

Hi all. I am starting to develope my own film. I have a few questions

that aren't answered anywhere (at least not as clearly as I would like

to know). I'll make them numbered so it will be easy to answer. (I'm

probably going to use 2-roll Paterson tank)

 

1. Do I need seperate mixing jugs for each chemical? (developer, fixer

and hypo-clearing agent) And prepare them all before starting

developement? Or can I take 2-3 minutes after developing to prepare

the fixer? If I prepare everything beforehand, how do I control the

dropping temperature of the liquid?

 

2. How long does the concentrates last? Do I need to get airout

(accordian) bottles to store them?

 

3. Do I need different graduates for developer, fixer and clearing

agent? Or can I just use one single graduate and quick rinse it in

running water to get rid of the previous chemical?

 

4. What is emulsion speed or film speed? The ILFORD docs mention this

a lot but doesn't explain.

 

5. Can I fill a big bucket at higher than desired temperature, let it

sit until the temperature falls while the harmful stuff in tap water

settles at the bottom? How long should I let the water rest?

 

6. Is there any chemical to put in stored tap water that cleans it up

and makes it less harmful to film?

 

7. For washing in running water, does the water need to be of a

particular temperature as the developer and fixer solutions do?

 

8. Will any of you be kind enough to give me a detailed action

timeline from loading the tank to hanging the film to dry?

 

9. I'm thinking about trying HP5+ and DDX (or ILFOSOL S) first . Is it

a popular combination which gives above acceptable result? What

combination of film & developer should I try first? I would like to

use ILFORD chemicals only (easier to get).

 

Thank you for any and all info, this will be very helpful.