greg_tomas

bronica makes a PS macro lens...110mm. Its a 1:1 ratio...the only Med format lens that does that. You can rent it in many places.

 

Zenzanon SQ-Ai PS 110mm MACRO f/4.5 lens

1:1 magnification with no distortion through infinity.

Nothing beats 210 APO lens with Fuji Astia for beauty head shots.

An RZ set to orange dot is fully manual mode. The shutter fires at 1/400 always and cannot be changed in this mode. It looks as though your RZ might have electronic damage since it only works in manual mode.

I find that the overall hue on this film when cross processed is purplish...not that it matters too much since you can -mag during printing. I'd say keep it for a while. I get good results from cross processing expired film. The contrast gets softer.

Ring light can be a perfect fill light also. Setup you main light - (umbrella or light box), then stop down your ring light and use as fill. Now you get good modelling and the pop-out look ring light gives.

Searched for catalytic image amplification all over google, but can't find it. Can you describe this process to me.

Please refer to the pictures on this site:

 

http://www.heidiniemala.com/hn_pages/HN1Fashion/hn1_01.html

 

I read in an article that she bleaches kodak Portra 160NC film to get

this effect. Just wondering if anyone has done this? and how?

 

I imagine it could be done by dipping the negs in farmer's

reducer...don't know for how long though. Any suggestions are

welcome.

 

Thanks, Greg

Thanks all for the responses. I've played around a few more times with digital shots and white background. Have set white balance to it but still get colour shifts to magenta. Sometimes 20 shots into the shoot it starts to shift...then shifts back to white. I'm just doing a selection in PS and ajusting the curve on a mask layer. Seems to work fine.

I was testing a canon 10D last week with a model. The pics looked

fine on the lcd but when I viewed them on the computer the white

backdrop was pinkish. I also found the same thing with my kodak

DC4800. The model with both cameras looks fine...(correct colour

balance).

 

The shots were done in a studio with flash. Both cameras set to

flash colour balance setting. The backdrop was exposed 1stop over

the exposure for the model. Both raw files.

 

Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and if its an

overexposure or underexposure issue with the white backdrop.

 

Thanks.

I have found that I can lessen grain by underexposing. My prints look much better if HIE is underexposed 2-3 stops. Of course exposure is always a well educated guess...but generally I work out my exposure and -2 stops.

Portra and TC400N are essentially the same film...other than film base colour. Portra is the "professional" film and therefore costs more. Both films exibit the finest grain if overexposed by 1 stop.

Broncolor and Elinchrome are widely used in the fashion.

 

http://www.sarahsilver.com/

 

On this site you can see the TOOLS she's using, and the pics produced with them.

I appologize...I meter the Velvia at ISO 80 then push 1 stop. This makes the exposure pretty much bang on. For people I always use fill flash so they don't look too yellow.

 

I push it 1 stop to increase the contrast...you get really strong blacks. It looks very sharp.

Hi All,

 

I've used cross process for a couple of years now. Began with some wedding photos for uniqueness...maybe not anymore, and most recently for pics for a couple of hair salons.

 

In my experience velvia 50 .... metered at iso 50 and pushed 1 stop looked best. It has a strong yellow and red tinge. For the hair salon pics done in the studio I overexposed the models' face by 2stops(flash) so the faces were white and not yellowish.

 

Cross process increases contrast and grain. I've also tried with Fuji Provia, Kodak Ektachrome 400 X, Kodak Epp 100, and Agfa RSX 100 . By far velvia looked the best.

I agree. What you're looking for is the tilt/shift adapter. Unfortunately it costs as much as a new lens. You can use it with a normal 110 lens but it won't focus to infinity. To focus to infinity you need the 75 or 180 short barrel lenses. And to use the short barrel lenses without the tilt/shift adapter you require a spacer available from mamiya.

I thank you all for the great information. I should have been more specific with my question which was answered none-the-less. In the studio I can control high key portrait to look any way I please. My problem was with dark shadows shooting high key outdoors. I wanted to lighten shadows...which a blue filter will do.

 

Thanks All - Greg

From my understanding using yellow, orange, red filters will increase

contrast because they subtract blue from panchromatic films.

 

What kind of filter would I use to decrease contrast on panchromatic

B&W films? I'm mainly interested for high key portraits.

I agree. The dots are hot pixels...or also called blown pixels. Every camera manufacturer has a number of blown pixels that are within exceptable range for the model of camera. I've had Kodak service look at one of my cameras a couple of times...they have a machine/sw that maps the blown pixels and turns them off. It doesn't work too great since I still end up with them.

Here it is!

 

Extended warranties from retailers are 100% profit for them...that's why they try so hard to sell it to you.

 

Worse case scenario: you buy the extended warranty and in 2yrs the camera breaks. You cannot send it directly to Kodak. Kodak will instruct you to take it to circuit city who then must send it to kodak and pay for the repair. You will probably wait for ever to get it back, and in many cases the retailer doesn't even send it to the repair facility...believe me its happened.

 

What to do: currently kodak doesn't offer an extended warranty on this camera. That will probably change in 6months. Right before your 1yr kodak warranty expires call Kodak and ask for extended warranty. If it is offered it will be 1/3 cost of the circuit city one.

 

Greg

Well ... what most graphic artists use is the pen tool to create a selection. Then create an alpha channel out of it which you can later change the feathering to blend forground/background. You can learn to do this from the below link.

 

http://www.arraich.com/ps_tips_c4.htm

 

If you're in a hurry use the lasso tool while holding down shift to create a selection. FEATHER set to 3 .

I know its already been said...but why don't you keep your bronica for formal park and family shots and purchase a 35mm camera for Church and Hall.

 

I use a canon A2 with 420 flash. Works great.

Hi all,

 

Can anyone tell me the MP size of a digital camera needed to make a

good 16X20 print on a photo minilab system. I know 3.1mp will make

8X10, and 4mp is good for 11X14. But how about 16X20 which is my

standard film print size.

Are there any Canon digital SLR's that have full size cmos like the

Kodak 14N ?

I've used both systems extensively, and have a few comparison points.

 

Hasselblad

- multiple exposure difficult - too many variables for consistent results

- must lock mirror for exposures 1/15 or longer - will shake always

- distance scale is great for product shots

- never had a blank shot - nothing captured

 

Mamiya RZ

- multiple exposure is great - use it all the time

- I never lock the mirror for long exposures - its heavy enough that the mirror flip doesn't shake camera

- find focussing by #'s on bellows difficult

- every once in a while - like every 1000 pics I'll get a blank frame...common prob

About 6yrs ago I found myself in your exact position. I bought a Canon EOS Elan with a 50mm lens. I still use the body and the lens today. When I had a bit more cash I got a second body Canon A2, and also purchased a 70-210mm lens and an 28-70mm lens.

 

50mm is the focal length of the human eye...or pretty close. What you see is what you get! You can use it for lanscape, full length portraits and even head and shoulder portraits.