thomson_chan

<p>Thanks for sharing your experience :)<br>

Re Robert, thanks for your generosity. I think I would return the lens, and be more careful in choosing the next copy. I doubt the camera shop would send it off for it to be fixed, as there's no official spare parts and it the resale price is too low.<br>

I would still like a copy of this lens to play with. I'll be careful with the next one :P</p>

<p>Hi Richard, Eric,<br>

Thanks for your responses. The microswitch is set as 'normal', it would limit the zoom between 50mm and 105mm, but the jam is around 35mm. <br>

The store will refund it if I take it back, but it's a bit disappointing that after longing for a good copy, some glitch has made it slightly inconvenience to use.<br>

Thomson</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

I've recently bought a used copy of 28-105 AFD from a camera shop. It produces great results, just as many web reviews suggest. But one thing bugs me a bit, it's the zoom mechanism. When I turn from a long focal setting towards 28mm, it could get stopped at around the 35mm position. But if I turn the lens towards 105mm and try a couple of times, the lens would happily let me turn it back down to 28mm.<br>

Has this happened to your 28-105 lens, or any other Nikon lens? Is there a economical way to fix it? The optics in this lens is great and I wouldn't want to waste it.</p>

<p>Thanks for your advice in advance.<br>

Thomson</p>

<p>Thanks stan, mine had similar symptoms, it seemed to be under exposed even with the flash on, although it's only the pop up flash, but still.<br>

I'll have a look, but as I don't have any extended warranties on mine, I have to consider if I have to use it as spare and get a new camera body when i gathered enough dimes :)</p>

<p>Hello all, thanks for the responses, the observation was through the computer, rather than from the monitor, but thanks for the interesting fact. In the 'old days', for the same situation, I could have gone away with a faster shutter and thus less movement. But now, it seems like I have to use a slower shutter. <br>

But as you have suggested, it could well be my perception than anything else. Or maybe I'm getting more frail :)<br>

Joel, I don't have any raw to post, as I rarely shoot in raw, and because of the work and study, I wouldn't have time to shoot in the foreseeable future.<br>

But thanks, for the suggestions and interesting references. I'll have a look, and if the condition had gone to the worse, I'll post more symptoms in the forum :)</p>

<p>Cheers,<br>

Thomson</p>

<p>Dear all,</p>

<p>I have had my D70s for over three and a half years now. It had been my buddy and had not let me down. But I am thinking about age and DSLRs.</p>

<p>Recently, I notice that the photos doesn't seem to be as bright as it once used to be, which might be the effect of light meter requiring calibrating or the CMOS is less sensitive.</p>

<p>Does anyone know how physical character of DSLRs behave over time? Is it normal for its photos' brightness or contrast to fade?</p>

<p>Regards,<br>

Thomson</p>

Thanks all for the answer

There's more for me to learn.

I had thought about buying 3rd party lens, but as I'm still gathering the silvers for it, I'm doing the research of which one to buy.

I was just curious as to why it didn't seem to do what it says on the tin, but now I know.

Cheers

T.C.

Hello all,

I've been wishing to buy a macro lens, especially the 105mm, as the old AF-D version is no longer available, I've

had a try on the new one in a shop.

But the shop assistance pointed out to me that when the lens is at close focus, the min F number goes up, it

couldn't do F2.8 all the way to 1:1 macro.

Is this the same case with the older version?

Or does anyone know why? or any experience to share?

Cheers,

Thomson

but would the outside threads be an obstruction to the image of a wide angle lens?

so, there is actually no difference in the thickness of the glass?

Which filter, for UV would you recommend?

Dear all,

I've just bought a Tokina 12-24 wide angle zoom. I had heard some people saying

wide angle should use thinner filters. I'm just after a UV filter, I have Hoya

81B in my mind, but would this be a suitable filter? Or are there more suitable

filters?

I would hope experienced photographers give me advices of how to choose and any

recommendations is very welcomed.

Cheers,

Thomson

Thanks all,

I haven't push the plug into the camera deep enough. All sorted

I've tried looking through the manual, but it doesn't say what setting it should be. It has ver little info on the cable release. All it says is, in this/that situation, you could use our wonderful product called the MC-DC1, etc.

Thom

Dear all,

I had just bought a genuine Nikon MC-DC1 for my D70s. But it doesn't function

at all. The cable release had worked fine in the show room with a D80 (I

forgot to bring my D70s to the show room).

Had anyone else experienced the same problem? Are there any settings I have

to set before using? How could I make the two work?

Cheers,

Thom

I've bought my D70s a month ago, and now the D80 is out. But I don't feel the

D80 worth the extra money. It has 10 mega pixel, bigger LCD screen and more

focus points, 18ms start time (2ms faster than D70). One thing I learnt when

I started photography was to frame the picture before pressing the shutter.

And the resolution of D70 is, IMHO, detail enough. So, does it worth the

extra money? Have anyone out there tried it? what's your comment?

Tom

Just ask yourself, will you be going to Digital SLR soon? if you are, then buy a SB-800. If you are staying with F-100, buy the SB-28. Forget SB-80DX, it is only good with D100 or D1.

My humble view

I had been doing some research about FE2 and FA. I find the looking

of the FE2 to be better than FA, but FA has a higher spec than FE2.

I would meet more FE2 user than FA user. Why is that? Their sencond

hand price are about the same, so why is FA less popular but with

higher spec?

Have I missed something? Please tell me.

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear all,

Does anyone know that if a 80-200mm F2.8 (non-AFS) lens could fit a

HB-17?

HB-17 is the hood for 80-200mm F2.8 AFS

HB-7 is the hood for 80-200mm F2.8 non-AFS.

Just for those who are not familiar with the code number

I thought it might look quite cool with a petal hood.

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear all,

As you could have read from my previous post, I had fallen in love

with FE2, and was comparing with FM3a, in comparing the differences,

I also looked at the spec of FE, and came up with the following

question:

FE has mechanical shutter speed 1/90, FE2 has mechanical shutter

speed 1/250.

Which mechanical shutter speed would be more useful in the case

of 'ran out of battery'?

With M90, a higher f-stop could be use; with M250, lower f-stop has

to be used. Does it mean that when the battery ran out, the DOF is

lost because M90 is used?

Or what is the advantage having M250 over M90 or vice versa?

Cheers,

Thomson

p.s. I know my English is not very good, I will reword my question

for clarification if requested.

Dear all,

Thanks for the above answers, but summarising the above, FM3a has a newer TTL system; FM3a is more expensive but will save the day by not relaying on battery.

But how about differences in the spec? e.g. clearness of the view finder, the coverage percentage of the view finder, ergonomic of the AE-L switch? What are the difference and which is more beneficial?

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear all,

I recently fall in love with FE2, because of the TTL ability in a

nikon MF, and its appearance. But after seeing the FM3a, I found

that they have very similar spec, e.g. quickest sync at 250, TTL, etc.

What I want to know is what are the difference in terms of

specification and performance between FE2 and FM3a. Except FM is

fully mechanic and has DX. Which is more popular? Which is better to

use?

Cheers,

Thomson

Dear all,

Just wondering if anyone had tried this lens, and what's the

feedback. Is it a sharp lens? Does it do good on macro?

I am using a F80 body.

Cheers,

Thomson

Hi guys,

I know this comes up a lot, but I am still undecided which one to go

for.

They seem to have very similar prices. But which one is the better

deal with better quality?

Cheers,

Thomson Chan

Dear all,

thanks for the answers contributed. But there is one little part that I don't quite get.

What is it that FM2, FE2, F70, F100, F5, etc has got that F80 doesn't have, making F80 not such a good camera doing reverse mounting?

Is it that F80 doesn't have stop-down metering?

Sorry for my ignorance, what is stop-down metering?

Cheers,

Thomson Chan

Dear all, happy new year to all,

I had bought the equipment mentioned above F80 + 50mm/1.8 + reverse

ring. But as you would all know, the camera does not meter when the

lens is mounted reversed.

So how should I meter? Any tips for a new photographer (me)?

Cheers,

Thomson Chan