pge
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Posts posted by pge
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<blockquote>
<p>Do you think it's something it's going to cost me a lot?</p>
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<p>Yes I do but maybe I am wrong. It can`t hurt to send it in and get the estimate. I am spoiled in that regard because a Nikon repair facility is only 20 minutes from my house so I don`t have to deal with shipping.</p>
<p>Michael and Kari make good suggestions, I would try all of them.</p>
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<p>I am going to have to concur with the guy from the photography shop. Time for a trip to Nikon. It seems strange to me that a double image is being created, maybe someone else has experience with this same sort of problem.</p>
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<p><br>
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<p >I guess it does. I am not an airplane enthusiast but a friend of mine is. He took me to Wendys to watch the planes land at Toronto`s international airport and there were at least a few dozen other people there including a few children who were asking their fathers when they would be able to go home. Essentially I was responding to Sanford`s thoughts by stating that, at least in Canada, plane spotting is not dead. This shot of mine was taken between landings.</p>
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<p>In Toronto people gather in a Wendys parking lot to watch and photograph the planes land, lawn chairs, long lenses, its quite a family event.</p>
<p>Now I am absolutely not interested in discussing national security but IMO I can`t imagine someone with nefarious intentions being able to gather more information from their own photos then the could from the photos on <a href="http://www.airliners.net/">airliners.net</a>.</p><div>
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<blockquote>
<p>When is the next likely new Nikon coming?</p>
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<p>It should be about a week. I ordered it through an ebay auction. Its a ES-1. You meant to me right?</p>
<p> </p><div>
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<p>Thank you for all your suggestions. Brooks and Don, I`ll do your suggestions right now, although Don I guess I won`t know if your suggestion works because I have already replaced the two photos.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>most likely some interference with the writing-to-disk process?</p>
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<p>As the corrupted ones are part of my main collection they would have only been written once. They must have been ok a month ago when I made my last backup. I wonder if it could be an indication that the HDD that my main collection is one might be getting old.</p>
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<p>are the thumbs the issue or the JPEGs?</p>
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<p>Well the jpeg`s work fine. I always assumed that thumbs within windows or within a viewer are just miniture renders of the actual jpeg but perhaps I am wrong. I have built many websites and know of course that thumbs on a website are typically just small versions of a larger version.</p>
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<p>Good thumbs from my most recent backup:</p><div></div>
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<p>Corrupt thumbs from my main collection:</p><div></div>
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<p>I shoot in RAW, import into LightRoom, then export what I want to keep after adjustments into my main collection. My main collection is just over 60,000 jpegs and about every month I do a full rotating backup by deleting my oldest backup and copying my full main collection. I have 4 backups of various ages going at the moment. I use ACDSee as my main viewer. OK, enough with the background.</p>
<p>I was looking through my collection last night and came across what appears to be corrupt files or at least corrupt thumbs. I viewed the full images and they worked fine. I opened these thumbs in windows and the thumbs are fine. Yet whenever I view these thumbs in ACDSee they are currupt. I looked at the same thumbs in my most recent backup and they view fine in ACDSee. </p>
<p>As far as these two thumbs are concerned I can just take my backup photos and replace them. However the whole thing has me a bit worried. I have thousands of hours in my photo collection which includes every photo I have ever taken, film and digital, and every photo my parents (long since passed) ever took. The collection is too large to look for corrupt files.</p>
<p>How can this happen? What does it mean that the thumb can be viewed in windows properly but not in ACDSee? Is there a way to have a program such as ACDSee check the integrity of my photos automatically? Should I have a different backup system?</p>
<p>Not that it matters but the photos in question are about 18 months old shot with a D700, and they are photos of old photos.</p>
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<p>This link may be of interest. <a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/michaeliu/cameras/shared/ff2macro/ff2extube.htm">LINK</a></p>
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<blockquote>
<p>I have not yet tried the cable for the camera<br>
&<br /> And what happens when you use the D800 as a card reader</p>
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<p>I think this is the answer.</p>
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<p>Thanks Lex for your explanation. I feel like I have been consistent although perhaps I have not. I don't think I ever suggested that lifting shadows was "evil" outright. What I tried to say was that its overuse was something I was noticing all too much. I also tried to say that I was not innocent in this regard but I do try to restrain myself, particularly now that I have become more and more aware of when it doesn't work. I agree that it is a tool and therefore has some good uses. As far as people like Jeff who use this technique to make a job quicker, I acknowledge that this is a legitimate use and I have done it myself, although honestly I never really started out this conversation thinking about fast photography. I had in my mind photographs where we are really trying to do our best work. I used the term "thought out photographs" in my original post to convey this. At any rate it has been an interesting conversation, at least for me, and I hope for some others. </p>
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<p>Matt I am not sure why you think that I disagree with any of this. Quoting myself from earlier:</p>
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<p>Two, I am doing a website for a store and needed a fast few shots of the inside. No light, quick shots, and I fixed them in post by substantially lifting the shadows. Two situations call for two different approaches. Neither was wrong as I see it. Yet I am aware, as you are, that lifting shadows too much can be a disaster. I do my best to stay within the bounds of good taste.</p>
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<p>Lex, you may not like my lighting suggestions or think it is amateur, but I was certainly not trolling.</p>
<p>I was doing a before and after shoot for a designer friend of mine and I was trying to get a shot of a small staircase that had changed from carpet to hardwood. The staircase went up to the front door of the apartment and there was no lighting. I tried a few things that were just not working and then I took a speedlight and put it on the landing pointed straight up. It light up the landing and I just cloned the speedlight out in post. Ok so it wasn't art and the great masters would not have done it but for a quick and dirty solution it worked.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>So you would let your pay drop to below profitable?</p>
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<p>It doesn't sound like you've done any real estate photography.</p>
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<p>Hey Jeff, no disrespect. You just asked how someone would light it and I answered and then I get this rather aggressive response. Maybe I am taking you wrong but earlier in this thread you said this below and it feels like a personal attack also. We are just talking about lighting techniques.</p>
<blockquote>
<p>It's putting down a specific technique because, apparently, you can't get black in your photos.</p>
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<p> </p>
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<p>Joe, I will take your word for it. I can't find the article that explained to me why colour correction of negatives is such a pain. I am very comfortable with Photoshop yet I have not had much luck with this but I do see that others have done a better job than I. I would just warn the OP that this is an issue. Here is an article where they come up with some very nice results, but look at the process, it's more complicated then setting WB.<br>
http://petapixel.com/2012/05/18/how-to-scan-film-negatives-with-a-dslr/</p>
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<p>Take a bunch of speedlights. Hide them in lamps and behind couches. Put them in the middle of the floor or in corners when necessary and clone them out in post. And where necessary bring up the shadows to compensate for the fact that you choose not to spend the time to light it more properly for the sake of speed.</p>
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<p>If we are talking about black and white 120 film or positive 120 film I agree with most of the comments and I add support to the 55mm f3.5 suggestion. Yes it is a great copy lens and it is inexpensive. Note Michael's warning about the f2.8.</p>
<p>However if we are talking about colour negatives I disagree with this approach. Dedicated negative scanners use a different concentration of RGB then cameras do. Forgive me if my explanation is not very scientific or even accurate, but the upshot is that it is damn near impossible to get your colours sorted out properly from a photograph of colour negative film. If indeed we are talking about colour negative 120 film rent one of those very nice Nikon film scanners for the weekend and scan it all that way.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>I've never made an HDR image in my life.</p>
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<p>Have you ever adjusted your shadows? Have you ever adjusted them too much?</p>
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<p>But what's the point in S or A as the exposure will be "correct" as long as it is within the camera's ability?</p>
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<p>Does the "bump" lessen with use? Is it a bump as if it is hitting something or a stiffness as you pass 28mm? My 20-35mm has a minor stiffness as it passes 24mm but it reduces as I use the lens.</p>
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<blockquote>
<p>Today, many folks are creating photos specifically to be viewed on screen and many are not printing at all.</p>
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<p>When I read this by you it reminded me of an earlier conversation we had. <a href="/casual-conversations-forum/00cSey">LINK</a></p>
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<p>I personally would not use a long lens without VR to photograph events. Although a long lens without VR has many fine uses, I don't see events as one of them. Challenging light situations, mostly hand held, this is where VR thrives. I rented a 180mm f2.8 recently and was glad I hadn't bought it. Although fine optically, its a long lens without VR unless you are using some form of support or fast shutter speeds (such as with sports). For events I would keep saving. As for the 105mm, I have nothing but respect for it.</p>
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