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pge

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Posts posted by pge

  1. On the D200 there is a menu item called Multiple Exposure in the Shooting Menu, pretty straight forward, so if the D50 doesn't have this then photoshop is probably the answer, and at any rate I would think that photoshop would give you more control over your results than the onboard camera feature would.
  2. Hi, first a quick comment, I hate the idea of a camera doing anything

    but waiting for my instructions, I don't want it to set anything, so I

    hesitated before entering the dig market. I have a hasselblad 500cm

    and it is the best camera to be behind, but I also have a large

    collection of nikon glass, so I read the articles and I took the

    plunge, bought a D200, body only, not interested in some plastic auto

    focus anything, put my ai glass on it, and wow, what a pleasant

    experience. The D200 is a fabulous camera, and my prints are much

    more like they came from my hasselblad then they came from my 35mm

    nikons. Hard to believe the sensor is smaller than 35mm film, let

    alone 60mm film.

     

    So onto my question, so I am experimenting with the camera, I use the

    custom WB to set the WB, easy enough, copy it from d-0 to d-1 to save

    it, but I can't find out where to tell what k value I have stored. I

    could have the camera calculate the WB, then shoot tests at different

    WB settings, or use the bracket feature and then compare the shots,

    but you must simply be able to read somewhere what k value the camera

    has stored in d-0 after doing its test. Thanks for your help.

  3. Hi

     

    I recently purchased a D200, having a great time with it.

     

    I have a very old set of Norman studio lights, so far I have been

    using the on-board flash on the D200 to trigger the studio lights with

    a peanut. But now I want to do some low light directional shooting so

    I don't want to fire the on-board flash. I heard somewhere that it is

    not wise to attach a regular sync cord from a digital camera to an old

    light pack, and since my D200 took me a while to save up for, and to

    find, I am very concerned about harming it.

     

    Is there any truth to this fear, are the delicate circuits of a

    digital camera in any danger? Thanks for your help.

  4. On an earlier thread two people had different opinions about when to

    switch the power level on a pack. One said after the pack had been

    bled and the other said when the pack was charged. Which is correct

    or does it depend on the pack? Thanks for your help as always.

     

    Phil

  5. Hey Jeffrey, thanks for your reply. This is the first time I am using a pack and I just wanted to make sure that I was doing everything correctly. Should you fire the pack after you turn it off to drain the power? Is there anything else that is not necessarily intuitive that needs to be done? I generally read my owner's manuals cover to cover and although they are mostly full of dribble, I always find something useful.

     

    Phil

  6. Thank you everyone for your suggestions, I have printed up your answers and I am heading for my darkroom, my basement bathroom.

     

    My neg carrier was in place, and I am pretty sure that the condensor lens was correctly installed. The F60 is a pretty simple enlarger and if the condensor was upside down "Fesixcon 75" would be written upside down. I was using f8 which I thought was appropriate. Marck says that I must use f11 or smaller so I will definately be trying this.

     

    I will double check the whole setup but I think it is correct. I don't doubt that raising the head would reduce the problem but it won't solve the problem once I get to the printing stage. It really isn't contact sheets that are the problem but I thought that making the contact sheet had identified a problem. Thanks again for your suggestions, I will look into them all.

     

    Phil

  7. I wasn't sure if I should post this message under Medium Format or

    under B & W Printing, but obviously I decided to post it here.

     

    I am relatively new to Medium Format and less new to printing. I

    have a Durst F60 enlarger which was set up for 35mm printing. I

    purchase a medium format condensor lens (fesixcon 75) and a 75mm lens

    so I could do Medium Format printing with my Durst.

     

    I shot a test roll, all the same picture with the same exposure. I

    made a contact sheet last night and it was definitely darker in the

    center and lighter around the edges, you can actually see that it

    fades out as the print gets closer to the edge of the paper. I am

    getting more light near the center and less as you get further away

    from the center.

     

    This is no big deal with a contact sheet, it isn't that pronounced,

    but clearly I need my enlarger to cast a consistent light over the

    whole print area.

     

    Am I doing something wrong, am I having an equipment problem, any

    thoughts? Thanks for your help.

     

    Phil

  8. I just purchased my 1978 500cm two weeks ago. The 80mm lens has a

    50mm mount. I searched ebay and found a haze filter in mint shape,

    I purchased it and it arrived yesterday. But my lens cap won't fit

    over or on the filter. I really don't want to carry around my

    camera without the protection of a filter. Does Hasselblad make

    lens caps to fit over filters or do I need to buy something generic,

    or do you have any other suggestions. Thanks.

  9. I am new to medium format. My latest problem is that my enlarger, a

    Durst F60 with a Schneider 75mm lens, does not cover the entire

    negative. I have heard that a 75mm lens should be sufficient and

    that the problem is the condensor. I am trying to find out if the

    condensor must be changed or if it can be adjusted to accommodate

    medium format negatives. Does anyone know, or possibly does anyone

    know where I can find an online manual for the F60. Thanks for your

    help.

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