keith_van_hulle1

Some good recommendations but I have to agree 1/250 might be a tad too slow in some cases. I would also suggest to not rely solely on AF, any mode. I've seen some people try to use the various predictive focus features and just banging away HOPING to get a good shot. If you're on the boards and unless you have a clear field, that will result in a lot of out of focus images; the game is just too fast in most cases. By the time you've tripped the shutter, the players have moved from the plane of focus and the camera, busy snapping and writing multiple frames, isn't refocusing. At least for some shots, plan on where you're going to catch the action and pre-focus manually. Worked wonders in pre-AF days.

I think Art answered this in another thread. Will see if I can find it.

What Geoff said. They're quick in simple actions you need to take repeatedly. I batch resize mine smaller for contact-like sheets that get a quick print and go into a folder holder ONE of the copies of the CD. This way I never worry about touching the RAW file just to get thumbnails.

Only the geeks around here will worry about viewfinders. 99% of the buying public composes/chimps at the same time. They could care less. IF it's cheap, it might sell well. Looks like modes and control are limited. Basic consumer fare, especially with the stupid f/4 with that big honkin' barrel in front and popup flash.

How about year, then month of the actual event. Then, for multiple weddings in a month, combo of first letter of B&G lastname. No, it's not perfect, but only if you shoot a LOT of weddings where the two last name beginnings are dupes. And yes, if you are marketing yourself as a pro who does reprints (retention policy should be stated in your contract), water/fireproof is a necessity. With backups of everything located somewhere else. Unless you plan on a short retention (like 5 years) and figure that, after that time, possible profit from reprints is very low. Then plan on harvesting out the old stuff (maybe dumping it back to the customer) to keep things from getting too bulky.

It's all anecdotal evident. I'm trying to find where I read that the 350 is rated for 50,000 actuations. Then again, thinking of an MTBF graph, I'll bet they're falling all over the place. I have read of people getting 30K+ shots and others complaining they had to replace after ~10k. Isn't the shutter the same between both bodies? Only Canon really knows what the failure rate is and I'll bet they won't be telling unless it was REALLY good news. Too, not sure you can do much to prevent failure from occurring - maybe one of the gearheads can confirm a CLA will prolong the life.

Here's a question back at the OP. What will you do if some suit decides they like your shot(s) and send the samples to their highly-paid, Madison Avenues types to have their in-house shooters duplicate?

Some companies are more protective of their trademarks than others. I think this will be a case-by-case basis that you would have to resolve with the registered owner. I don't think they'd be worried about dilution or you opening your own store and misleading the public. But some companies don't give approval for ANY use of their trademark unless it's their own advertising. So we're back to ask the company or consult a lawyer. Personally, I don't think it'd be a big thing for just one picture (to heck with the disclaimer) but only $tarbucks will know for sure.

I prefer my pictures contain a bit more quality. For snaphots, maybe but otherwise, doubtful.

It also might be agood idea not to YELL AT EVERYONE when you post.

Read EVERYTHING under the Learn dropdown. Then you'll at least know what questions to ask.

Here's a quick way. (1) Upper right corner, click Search, (2) type "border elements" (w/o the quote marks) and (3) read the 2nd and 4th post for the exact steps.

I'm curious. Say you take two pictures of the same subject at both settings and compare the results side-by-side on your screen (or make some prints). And you come to your own conclusion about whether it affects quality or not. Then you compare that to answers you'll get here which could very well disagree with your own findings.

 

Which will you believe?

How dark is your field? I'd forget the flash and just shoot and 1600. You should be able to get f/2.8-4 at around 1/250 or so. You'll have to put up with the inverse square law and at basic football field distances, I'm not sure the flash will be much benefit. I have found that the expsoure you usually get looks something akin to vignetting with the light falloff. Or especially when you flash a player's eyes and they miss catching the winning touchdown pass.

Only way to get more accurate focus would be to use a better screen. I mean, we're talking what, maybe 5" front to back for acceptable sharpness here (figuring subject distance ~6 ft).

Answering your question to the same extent it was asked - you need to be able to "see". You need to be artistic. You need to know how your equipment works under the conditions you will be exposed to w/o having to think about it - responses to picture taking conditions should be automatic. You need the right equipment for the venue (maybe hipower flash, a bracket, fast lenses, extra batteries). f8 and be there.

 

You can't deny these aren't good tips for getting the best possible shots. My concern is that, if you're asking how to get good shots at a birthday party, a few responses in this forum won't make that much difference (yeah, my cup is half empty today).

There are so few AF modes - wouldn't it just be best to go experiment and see what works best for you? I mean, we're not talking hundreds (or even tens) os possible combinations. And if you uncomfortable with Servo, don't use it, Fairly simple solution I think.

 

We see a lot of these questions which makes me wonder what the hell happened before there was AF.

USe Windows Movie Maker, already installed on you PC (most likely). Has a fairly intuitive UI that is somewhat akin to ProShow. You drag/drop the pics to a working area and then pull them into the order you want in a storyboard, add changes/effects/timings and music and then output as a WMV movie file that Media Player will play. If you have the images already done, figure 20-30 minutes to make a decent show. WMM does allow you, during the output phase, to select the quality of the playback.

From experience, I would say you'll want the 70-200. The 100 will be to short for anything past your blue line (if you're semi-stationary) unless you're going to move around a LOT. For the average rink in the US, you'll need to shoot at at least 800 to keep the shutter speed up (I've a competitive figure skater in the family and we've been to most of the rinks in the southwest and northwest so it's experience talking). You'll have to juggle your shutter against the f4 max. Unless you could pick up a used f2.8? You'll need at least 1/250 if you want the fast action shots to come out clear.

 

But it can be done, even for your price. If you can pick up the used f2.8, be sure to get the grip for the Rebel, will make balance easier, let alone the vertical shutter button. As far as cold is concerned, my 30D handles a day at the rink just fine (batteries do go faster tho). What you may need to consider is the 30D's bigger buffer and faster speed. It does make a difference in sports. Then again, if you plan your shots and don't just blast away, a Rebel could easily work for you. Too, you could even save a few bucks and get an 80-200/f2.8 "L" for ~$700. Maybe not as fast focus-wise, but it'll get the job done with an extra stop over f/4.

You need to understand your variables here. Are you asking for a lens that is sharp wide open to accommodate your lighting issues? And that it needs to be a fast lens? Please define sharp and what you think is acceptable. W/o that, we have no reference point. Also, please state the working conditions relative to subject distance.

 

What if I said the 50/1.4 you're worried about can give you a DOF of roughly 27 feet front to back? Yes, it's possible - from about 50 feet subject to camera distance. Likewise, a DOF of ~2 feet requires about 14 feet working distance when wide open. Not whether that will be ACCEPTABLY sharp is subjective. Like Anupam stated, you need to consider your FOV. These factors will all affect what you need and what we would recommend.

Make sure you have a 50/1.8 - add it to wahtever you get. I would consider the Tamron 17-50/2.8 also instead of the Sigma. I have one and am very happy with it. I know you need something fairly wide but consider the aperture issue also. Faster IS better.

I'll let others answer some of your questions but have one for you. Do you need more reach (getting things farther away larger in the frame) or do you mostly take closer pics? I ask as you're missing the 24-85/3.5-4.5 from the list. The xtra 4mm at the wide end DOES make a difference. But if you feel you need to go to 105, get the 28-105/3.5-4.5 if these are your only choices. The extra stop compared to the 4-5.6 unit is worth it. Not just for the stop or the extra 4mm, but the fact that the 3.5-4.5 lenses are considered to be of higher quality and can potentially generate better images under more conditions.

Are you asking for advice on how to operate the camera or how to take good photographs? If the latter, read most everything under the LEARN pulldown. That would be a good start and give you ideas about what other information you need to pursue to improve your photography. Too, takes lots of pictures and become your own critic and learn what works and what doesn't. Hundreds, even thousands of book have been written about how to take good pictures; doubtful a few posts in a forum will give you what you need in comparison.

Windows Movie Maker, comes with XP, should also be able to do the rotate. Pu the clip in a Collection, drag it down to a storyboard and right-click the clip and select Video Effects. Should be Rotate options there.

You do know that "fayre" in usage went out somewhere in the 17th century?

 

Sorry, couldn't resist.

 

I would take a set of proofs if you have them. Don't have to display it outright. Those that show strong interest can then see what they really get to pick from. I've used that as a semi-closing technique.