friedemann_pistorius
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Posts posted by friedemann_pistorius
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<p>Front movements look fine, but I'd apply a little more swing and center tilt to the rear standard.</p>
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<p>Fuji Velvia 100 and Ektachrome E100VS for 4x5" landscapes.</p>
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<p>I own and use a G-Claron 270mm/f9 and I'm nothing but impressed. Very sharp (for infinity shots I stop down to at least f32), excellent contrast and color rendition (I shoot transparencies exclusively). Highly recommended.</p>
<p>Other lenses in this focal length range would be:</p>
<p>Nikkor-M 300mm/f9 (which I also own and use). Fantastic little lens, smaller and lighter than the G-Claron.</p>
<p>Fujinon-C 300mm/f8.5 (I own its 450mm brother, an excellent performer). The Fujinon-C 300mm has the shortest flange focal lenght from the lenses mentioned (280mm, if my memory serves me right), and is still a bit lighter than the Nikkor.</p>
<p>Rodenstock Apo-Ronar 300/f9 (never had or seen one).</p>
<p>All lenses mentioned come in #1 shutters.</p>
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<p>Thanks so far for the responses.<br>
Charles, I've done quite extensive research before posting my question. Both tripods mentioned do have flip legs. I also know the specs of the Markins ballheads. Based on the diameter of the ballhead, both heads would fit between the reverse folded legs. However, i wonder if the protruding knobs might prevent the legs from folding correctly.</p>
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<p>Thank you Joe for your answer. However, neither did I ask if anybody likes or dislikes ballheads with LF cameras, nor was it my intention to start another 3-way head v. ballhead discussion. I got perfectly used to a ballhead with my LF work.</p>
<p>My old Manfrotto stuff needs to be replaced, for whatever reason - that's all.</p>
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<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I've also posted this question in the LF forum (I'm shooting mainly 4x5) but I still occasionally use my Bronica SQ-Ai, so this post applies to the MF forum too.<br>
I'm in the process of upgrading my tripods, and have settled on Feisol tripods for various reasons, mainly because they're affordable, lightweight and the legs can be folded reverse/upwards to keep the size small for transportation.<br /> I like the idea of getting a <strong>Feisol CT-3442 </strong>with<strong> Markins Q10</strong> ballhead for long distance and overnight trips, and also a <strong>Feisol CT-3472 </strong>with<strong> Markins Q20</strong> ballhead for short hikes and stationary work.<br /> My heaviest setup (camera and lens) is ca. 2500 g.</p>
<p>1) Do these Markins ballheads (with lever release plates) completely fit between the reverse folded tripod legs? <br /> 2) Has anyone experiences with Feisol CB-50D ballhead equipped with either RRS or Markins lever release plates?</p>
<p>The tripod choice is final (well, almost) but I am open to suggestions regarding ballheads.</p>
<p>Thank you, Friedemann</p>
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<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I'm in the process of upgrading my tripods, and have settled on Feisol tripods for various reasons, mainly because they're affordable, lightweight and the legs can be folded reverse/upwards to keep the size small for transportation.<br /> I like the idea of getting a <strong>Feisol CT-3442 </strong>with<strong> Markins Q10</strong> ballhead for long distance and overnight trips, and also a <strong>Feisol CT-3472 </strong>with<strong> Markins Q20</strong> ballhead for short hikes and stationary work.<br /> My camera is an Ebony SV45Ti, heaviest setup (camera and lens) ca. 2500 g.</p>
<p>1) Do these Markins ballheads (with lever release plates) completely fit between the reverse folded tripod legs? <br /> 2) Has anyone experiences with Feisol CB-50D ballhead equipped with either RRS or Markins lever release plates?</p>
<p>The tripod choice is final (well, almost) but I am open to suggestions regarding ballheads.</p>
<p>Thank you, Friedemann</p>
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<p>The all metal monorail Plaubel Peco Junior 6x9 weighs in at 1460 g, which in MF/LF I consider lightweight.</p>
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<p>I once had a nice Shirom 6x9 wood field camera, but this camera is really HARD to find. Pro: very small and light. Con: the whole camera had to be flipped 90 degrees to get vertical images. I didn't get used to it and sold it a few years later.</p>
<p>There is (was?) a Tachihara 6x9 camera. I played with one in a shop years ago and it was as nice as its 4x5 brother.<br /> Jim at mpex is very knowledgeable and will help you if you're interested.<br /> In contrary to what you may find out about these cameras: Shirom and Tachihara 6x9 cameras are NOT the same.</p>
<p>Also, a Nagaoka wood field camera exists in 6x9 format. I've seen one at the auction site one or two years ago, a real beauty. Sadly, I didn't manage to get it.</p>
<p>Ebony 6x9/2x3 cameras are available in different versions, but they're expensive.</p>
<p>If you're not hooked to folding cameras, consider a Plaubel Peco Junior camera (made in 6x9 and 4x5 versions). It's lightweight and solid. Old German stuff though...</p><div>
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<p>Take a look at Razzle cameras, made by Dean Jones (PN member).<br>
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<p>The difference between a handheld and a tripod based cable release shot will have much more impact on the sharpness of your image than the difference in diffraction between f16 and f22.</p>
<p>Also, the bigger the final print, the greater the viewing distance. People will not examine your images with a loupe, but will step back for a better view.</p>
<p>I'd suggest to make every effort to get sharp images: focus carefully, select the adequate f-stop for the desired depth of field, always shade your lens, use a tripod and a cable release whenever possible, scan and print your images with the best devices you can afford.</p>
<p>If all this doesn't lead to satisfaction, choose a bigger film format.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p><em>"Which (if either) of these lenses would be better in that respect?"</em></p>
<p>To answer your original question:<br>
The Nikkor 75 and the Grandagon 75 have slightly different lens designs (Nikkor 7 elements 4 groups, Rodenstock 8 elements 4 groups). I don't know the MTF curves, maybe there's a very small difference in falloff. However, I doubt that you will <em>notice</em> any difference.</p>
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<p>I've used Nikkor-SW 65 and 90mm lenses. I have no experience with the 75mm version, but would like to share my experiences with the lenses I know.<br /> With the 90mm I don't use a center filter at all. The image circle is BIG, and I never reach its edge.<br /> The 65mm has seen seldom use of a center filter (Heliopan 0.45). Without a center filter, the falloff is noticable occasionally, in most cases it's not an issue. With bright and evenly illuminated areas in your image, you'll notice more falloff, however.<br /> You probably know the specs of both lenses you're considering, the differences are small. The Nikkor has a slightly larger image circle (Nikkor 200mm vs. Rodenstock 195mm at f22).<br /> The results I got with the Nikkor lenses are outstanding, so I can recommend the 75mm version without any hesitation.</p>
<p>I've never used a Grandagon, so I can't comment on it.<br /> All Rodenstock Grandagon-N 75/4.5 lenses come in size 0 shutters.</p>
<p>My suggestion ist simple: buy one of these lenses, don't buy a center filter, and go out shooting. The results will tell you if you want a center filter or not. It's a matter of personal taste.</p>
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<p><em>"I very much like the look of the Ebony 45S, is anyone making a similar camera at a lower price?"</em></p>
<p>Look at my first response.<br /> Shen Hao TFC-IIB 4x5 (£530, robertwhite.co.uk)<br /> Shen Hao XPO 4x5 ($840, badgergraphic.com)<br>
Walker Titan XL Wide 4x5 (£1075, walkercameras.com)</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>Depending on what you mean with "affordable", here are a few suggestions:</p>
<p><strong>Ebony </strong>make some non-folding 4x5 cameras, but they are not cheap. Built quality ist great and more than sufficient for street and outdoor work. I have a (folding) Ebony camera and LOVE it (www.ebonycamera.com ---> cameras ---> 4x5 non-folding)</p>
<p><strong>Shen Hao</strong> make non-folding cameras too, kind of Ebony clones. Quality seems to be ok. Robert White has specs and pictures (www.robertwhite.co.uk ---> Large Format ---> Shen Hao).</p>
<p><strong>Walker</strong> might also be of interest for you (www.walkercameras.com ---> cameras ---> titan XL wide 4x5).</p>
<p>For 150mm and 90mm, I'd never think of schlepping a monorail around.</p>
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<p>I too strongly suggest late May and June. I've been to Norway at least a dozen times, most trips were made in late spring, a few in August. I'd avoid July, since this is holiday season in Norway, usually very crowded.</p>
<p>For landscape photography you can't go wrong in the southwestern region ("flordland"), with rushing waterfalls, rich vegetation, green fjords and spectacular vistas. However, keep in mind that higher regions (called fjell) are often snowcovered until mid June or even later. Those regions are best visited in August or September, when colors begin to change.</p>
<p>Lofot islands is also a magic place, especially in June, when the sun shines 24 h a day, with loooong sunsets and sunrises.</p>
<p>My first trips were made with no plans in mind. I just followed the roads, which - on the road map - seemed to lead through beautiful landscape. Those trips were fantastic. Unexpected vistas and overwhelming natural beauty with every new mile.</p>
<p>However, this was me. Buy a good Travel guide, most interesting places listed there are well worth a visit. Some fjords have been mentioned above.<br>
Geiranger fjord is famous, crowded, and - beautiful! You can easily spend a week there with hiking, boating, exploring. If the weather is good, a ferry boat tour is an unforgettable experience.</p>
<p>Don't forget to see some "stavchurches", Heddal or Borgund are favourites, but there are more. Aurlandfjord is beautiful, the narrow Naeroyfjord is spectacular - take the ferry boat through the canyonlike scenery!<br>
There is a wonderful full day hike through Aurlandsdalen (old trail or route), great mountain and valley scenery.</p>
<p>The 2 hour (one way) hike to "Prekestolen" leads to a platform about 1800 ft straight above the Lysefjord waters. Keep in mind, that this is one of the most visited places in southwestern Norway, the trail can be very crowded, the hike is strenuous and you should be in good physical condition. However, most people are physically not well prepared for the hike and wear the same shoes as they wear while shopping, but they make the trip anyhow... and, the parking lot is really expensive.<br>
But, by all means, choose a sunny day, get up EARLY and make the hike. You'll be rewarded with pictures you'll get nowhere else.</p>
<p>Are you sure about the trip length? 10 days in this country are short.<br>
But, maybe you'll get "infected" like me. Since 1999, I've been there almost every year. Can't let go...</p>
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<p>Definitely go to Krka Falls National Park. If you follow the Krka River (a few kilometers east of Sibenik if I remember correctly) upstream through a beautiful gorge you'll reach a series of spectacular waterfalls. Hike along the trails through a wonderful, tropical-like vegetation. A magic place to me!</p>
<p>Visit the beautiful islands of Cres and Losinj.</p>
<p>If you make it to the south, don't miss Dubrivnik. Try to find a place where you can look over the old town at sunset from the south. You'll never forget that view.</p><div>
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<p>Here's a picture of the lens I didn't manage to buy...</p><div></div>
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<p>Apo Kyvytar lenses (also known as Graphic Kowa and Computar, I don't recall the history of those name changes) are <em>really</em> hard to find and expensive. The 210mm Computar has f9, the Apo Kyvytar has f6.8, that's the only difference I'm aware of.<br /> Image circle is around 380mm at f22, even more if you stop down further. These lenses are lightweight (#1 shutter) and stellar performers.<br /> By unscrewing the front element you'll get 370mm focal length.</p>
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<p>I've been to southern France, i.e. Provence many times. Best date range for fall colors is definitely the last one or two weeks of October and the first week of November. If you happen to have good weather (it usually is dry and sunny at this time of the year) you'll see SPECTACULAR fall colors.</p><div></div>
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Best 6x9 view camera?
in Large Format
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