remco-jan.woldhuis

<p>The web is not optimized for 72 ppi. Screen sizes are limited to (on average) 1900x1080 which is approx. 2 Megapixels. </p>

<p>Note that high quality plastics and plastic structures can be better than metal structures. However, most plastic lenses are built for cost reductions. </p>

<p>SD's are so cheap nowadays, that this should not be an issue when considering a new camera....</p>

<p>The first one (the "VRII") has better vibration reduction.<br>

Besides that, I think the D300s deserves a better lens than this one....</p>

<p>"if "entry-level" in 2010 is BETTER than the D70s in 2006,"<br>

The D70(s) was entry level at the time.....<br>

If you daughter has to learn a lot, I would give her the D70 and let her learn about camera settings instead of having the possibility to use advanced "user friendly" preprogrammed settings.</p>

 

<p>The pro's I know use Apple Cinema displays. So I guess these are OK for pro use....</p>

<p>This machine has more then enough power....</p>

<p>Spot & Patch?</p>

<p>What are the settings of your raw converter. My D70 produces NEF files that are about 5MB.<br>

If you specify upscaling and 16 bit in the PS raw converter you can end up with files of more than 70 MB.</p>

 

<p>55mm and 77mm are the filter thread. f/7.1 @ 1/500th with a 55mm is the same as f/7.1 @ 1/500th with a 77 mm.<br>

But having a 77mm thread usually means the lens is bigger, and makes it possible to make it faster (e.g. f/2.8 vs. f/4). But this depends entirely on the lens. My Tokina 12-24 has a 77mm filter thread, but is "only" f/4. My Nikkor 50mm has a 52mm thread and is f/1.8....</p>

 

<p>Depends on which version of the MacBook Pro. If it's the latest model it will most likely be faster than your current PC.</p>

<p>I just use my glasses. With a proper viewfinder (I think this depends on the "eyepoint") I don't have any problems. I have a D70 and can see the whole viewfinder, the newer models have better viewfinders. </p>

<p>If it also happens with manual focus, there may be something wrong with the release button. Bad contact or something like that... </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I know how it feels. You're right to say that the dust doesn't affect the image, but it doesn't feel right to work with spots in the viewfinder. It's the same as driving your when you've just cleaned it: it rides better then.</p>

<p>I print portraits and landscape on lustre papers, and high contrast/high saturarion images look better on gloss papers. </p>

<p>@Mark L.: For one D3 you can buy 2 D300's and you have a few hundred euro's/dollar's left for a nice dinner. two D300's Seems to me a better option than one D3.</p>

<p>Too close to your monitor....</p>

<p>Yes, it's possible but due to changes in the distance from lens to sensor, focussing to infinity won't work. Great for macro though. You can buy quite decent M42 lenses for almost nothing.</p>

<p>Since the recorded image has the same color as what you see in your view finder it's most likely the color of your lens.</p>

<p>@Mike: I don't agree that the DOF depends on the enlargement of the image. The effect you describe is the perception of the viewer. The DOF does not change by printing on a larger format. An out-of-focus background will not become more in-focus when printed on a smaller size. We only think it's more in focus because we see less detail.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>A lot of tools in CS3/4 were useful when camera technology had room for improvement. You could do a lot to improve your images. Today, the image quality out of the camera is so good (e.g. low noise) that post-processing can be limited. Elements will most likely all features that you need to process your images. Unless you want to manipulate your images to large extend - but that's not photography, that's more like graphic design....</p>

<p>How will the prints be used? If it's for billboarding, the 8.2MP should be sufficient. For fine-art printing it's not.</p>

<p>May it's easier to just buy a new SCSI controller card for your XP PC. I saw cards in the Netherlands for about 50 euro. So in the US they should be something like 50 dollars.</p>

<p>Nikon clearly wants to sell new camera's (which makes sense for a commercial company).</p>

<p>BTW: My experience is that old manual NIkons work best with old manual lenses. Modern AF lenses are not really designed to use with manual focus. You can do it, but the old MF lenses do it better....</p>

<p>I think there are converter rings that enable you to use a 77mm filter on a 67 mm lens thread. So you have to buy at least one new 77mm filter. I would just buy a 77mm for he 10-22 and keep the 67 for your current lenses...</p>