daniel_fortier

<p>Personally I would keep using your jobo unless you are increasing printing volume.<br>

So many things can be already defective in the rcp or will be!<br>

If you didn't already just google ra-4 stop bath for options.</p>

 

<p>One issue not discussed:<br>

220 B&W so easy to have problems in processing.<br>

In normal reel & small tank so many issues... from loading onto reel marks to streaks cause by uneven agitation or bromide drag or uneven wetting or etc........<br>

The only consistent & great result I had with 220 B&W was with a large Refrema film processor (a beauty)</p>

<p>If Ron Andrews is right & your Vericolor is the old C-22 process.... Thrash it!<br /> Because C-22 was a low temperature process compare to C-41 & your film emulsion will melt away leaving a amber film base, been there done that !<br /> If you still want to experiment try processing it yourself in traditional b&w result were unusable then but today you might be able to scan & photoshop something out of a complete dense flat film strip.. looking at film you will probably barely distinguish anything through.<br /> Long ago I did experiment with Ektachrome E-4 process in B&W developer then reprocess in C-22. Film was dense & flat needing 10+ minutes exposure at enlarger for a 8x10 print, but ISO obtained was out of 1976 world ! lol</p>

<p>To make it easier my experience is that a very good film back is needed to insure film flatness or it won't match perfectly and following frames needed because of variation in the processing.<br>

A lot easier with digital...</p>

<p>Simple because they would not sell any new lenses !</p>

<p>You could also check for having your profiles be read & adjusted by someone else, some are offering that service just google it. It will be cheaper then buying equipment.<br>

Cheers</p>

<p>+1 for Peter answer,<br>

To much Photo-flo or wetting agent only use a very small amount.<br>

Also I presume you use tap water for wash & maybe final rinse, fine if the water is not to hard (mineral content) otherwise you need to treat it or use distilled water for the last two changes of wash water & for the wetting agent it favors minerals depositing on film surface as a white powder, a white non define cloud is mostly to much wetting agent & can be re-wash but take your time emulsion need to swell evenly not to add problems.<br>

Darkroom owners in rural area with wells knows.</p>

<p>+1 for Greg answer<br>

In doubt with C-41 or E-6 re-bleach & re-fix films, there is no damage to do so X2 </p>

<p>LOL Now that's priceless...</p>

<p>Just think that if you don't get a camera with full frame sensor your widest current lens the 28mm will become a normal lens... <br>

So if you were thinking of the cost to go full frame consider the purchase of decent wide lenses with aps-c sensor.<br>

A used 5D in nice condition is a sound option.</p>

<p>Mat white is the best just that the ideal viewing angle is not as wide as all the "commercial screen"<br>

Also any fair cotton tarp stretch between two trees will be awsome with popcorn and a clear dark sky!</p>

<p>Do not use the card until you retrive the images & that's easy with the right software.<br>

The Sandisk recovery software is the best & it's free with some of their products see:<br>

<a href="http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/43">http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/43</a><br>

other wise do a google on: data recovery image for freeware<br>

Formating only remove the index file on the medium even after hundreds "full or deep format" all the images that were not recorded over will be accessible.<br>

Last year a customer brought me a compact flash card that they did just that on a Pro Photoshoot since it was a rented card with the camera I was not expecting to find much more then his images since everyone "pro users" format all the time even between download... WRONG I found images that were shot months before! they just did not got overwriten.<br>

Moral to the story if you want to erase sensitive data on any medium you have to record a useless file that will fill it complitely.</p>

 

<p>do not worry use a prolab for the prints and ask what they want, I saw at a photoshop world conference a speaker with 40"X60" print from a fuji S2 and they were shot in JPEG... it was a great down to earth seminar.<br>

regards</p>

I will give you short answers / tips so you can focus / try on one step at a time.

 

When I printed cross process slide films using enlarger and type C process my first goal was to reach as neutral

tones as possible for the base of the strip of film I was using, after i would fine tune to my / customers preferred

tones for the subject.

 

An easy way to find your color filtration base numbers is to use a blank piece unexposed & processed of your

regular color negative film as an extra "filter pack" in your enlarger head filter drawer or somewhere above your

crossprocess neg as long as it is out of focus (not to close) & cover the whole light path. Then on your first test try

your usual starting filtration numbers for that type of color neg.

 

Once you have this base color filtration the easiest way to test is to move partially your original in the negative

carrier in order to get some of the blank area between frames, your tests should be a multi-exposure strip including

part of your image & the blank unexposed area surrounding. It will be easy to evaluate what color cast you have to

correct by judging the blank area scale you printed, keep doing multiple- exposure test until you are quite close to a

neutral scale.

 

Hope my explination is not confusing its a simple thing to do, just don't forget the blank peace of neg in the enlarger

when you go back to print regular neg ! regards

Megan, when you say "currently printing" what process are you using? enlarger & wet chemistry or scanning / inkjet or you are using some outside services? all could be good but they are world apart as how to optimize.

regards

yes, in C-41 process all you get is negative.

 

When cross processing became popular it was before scanning & photoshop, we had to use an enlarger & print the "funny" negatives it was slow & long to achieve a great print.

 

Regarding the way you like to use polaroid print, the only option to get a positive slide that could work would be to shoot Kodak gold 100 GA-135-24 exposed it at 40 ISO and have it process in E-6 normal.

 

When cross processing negative films in E-6 slide process there is a loss of speed.

 

The 40 ISo is a starting point, also if shooting people try a few frames with a blue filter 80B or 80C it will reduce some of the overall yellow cast that this type of cross process give.

 

You could also add filtration in the dialab while making your prints.

 

Post some results. regards

When cross processing slide films in C-41 process you will have an increase of contrast and boost of ISO, looking at your strip of negatives I can see that the exposure of neg #8 & #9 was severely over-exposed, #6 & #7 look fair but the lightning in the scene was comming to much from the top, not enough from the front, the eyes are in the dark, but still just work a bit more with photoshop.

 

Cross processing does not give great results without some work and testings.

regards,<div></div>

At last sorry for the long delay on a promise.

 

Here is the ready to work control unit that can be used to create almost any burst tank line set-up, controlling temperature to 0.1C heating and cooling, burst agitation cycle on and off duration for nitrogen and air.

 

To complete the wet system you only need regular parts available at place like Grainger.<div></div>

I compared a Tokina & Nikkor 12-24, image results is a toss.

 

See for yourself, but slight focus or other variables will make one edge the other, it's very close.

 

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/NIK%2014%20F.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/TOK%2014%20F.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/NIK%2014%20R.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/TOK%2014%20R.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/NIK%2014%20L.jpg

http://photos.imageevent.com/premierevue/posting/TOK%2014%20L.jpg

 

What is not close, is the ergonomics; the Tokina is WAY better big zoom & focus rings, the Nikkors are hidden in the lens, I imagine the frustration on someone shooting with gloves in colder climate.

 

Also the built quality of the 12-24 Tokina is amazing for the price.

 

regards

I presume you do not want to carry around your printer to events, but keep it home, in this case the Kodak 1400 will be fine.

 

I have one and recommend to use the Qimage software with it, fantastic for multiple prints of different sizes per sheet.

 

The best cost for papers/ribbon in the US is buy.com always buy the 14" paper, it's the same price as the 12" that only print up to 8X10.

 

regards

wetting agent tends to precipitate all the minerals in regular water, use distilled.

 

My first process were done with water from a well... even today's Digital Ice software in scanner cannot clean them.

good work Ron,

 

here is one from some of my first film process it was with E-3 in my kitchen sink with a Patterson reel & thank, scanned 32 years later...

If you want to go for the real thing try; tri or quad color carbon process!

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carbon_print

 

I bought a book on the carbon process about 20 years ago and occasionally when I come across it I hesitate between reading it or reading the whole Dune saga...

No one is returning your calls not because they are not interested or rude, but just because the industry is de facto shutting down as a whole.

 

Imagine the response you will get in a year if you do buy it!

 

See my previous posts on wing-lynch & non only mechanical or easily repairable processing equipment.

 

Films processing equipments look like great deals these days...

 

regards

Do not mess with nitrogen it makes absolutely no sense... unless you are in a commercial setting.

 

For any darkroom, even a busy one, flexible container that you can squeeze the excess air out is sufficient, the busiest will prefer open top thanks with spigot & floating lids.

 

If I mentioned nitrogen before it was for commercial volume & installation.

 

A few years ago we were going through a 180 liters liquid nitrogen thank every 2-3 weeks year round! that's the equivalent of about 30 compress cylinders... we had it dirt cheap about $80 delivered, so the other option of having an on-site nitrogen generator was not enough competitive.

 

Keep it simple & have fun.

regards