michiel_bernhard

Hi there, my wife and I booked a 2 week tour to Kenya and Tanzania

for the end of November. Most of the tour will take place in a

minibus and I am wondering how much space we will have to bring

camera gear. We plan on bringing: EOS 1n, EOS 20D, EOS 350D, 100-

400, 200 f/2.8, 17-40, 28-135 and 420EX. The 350D with 200 f/2.8

will be in my wife's hands while I'll handle the 20D + 100-400 and

1n + 17-40 (both with there grips). Normally I would bring a Lowepro

Nature Trekker but I'm not sure if that is practical. I have a

Promag 2 as well, maybe I should bring that bag? One other thing is

my wife's length, she is 5ft 4" (165 cm), is she long enough to

shoot from the open roof? Any practical tips are higly appreciated.

Thanks!

Bob and others,

I read on dpreview about someone hooking his 20D to a laboratory powersource (probably at his work) and doing some test. I'm not an electrician so maybe I remember things incorrect but the conclusion still stands: the 20D starts 'locking up' when the voltage reaches a certain point (like 7.4 V if I remember) and dies when it reaches 7.3V or less. The BP511 has a nominal output of 8.4 but when using the camera intensive the camera draines this to 'the danger zone' (IS, burst shooting, maybe the microdrives uses more power then a CF card). The battery grip has some 'switch' (diode?) that prevents one accu leaking to the other wich uses like 0.4 V, pushing things even more to the 'danger zone'.

here are links where this is discussed in further detail:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=11025585

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1019&message=11349949

btw, this explais why 1d etc don't have these problems, they have 12V batteries.

Michiel, Holland

The EOS 30V (Elan 7N) replaced the EOS 30 (Elan 7) some monts ago, these models are both good value for money.

Check out the new EOS 300X (Rebel T2), its got some of the specs improved.

Regards,

Michiel, Holland

Can anyone tell me how how many shots with an EOS 20D you normaly

get from 1 fully charged BP-511a battery?

I know this depends on flash usage and the use of the lcd for

viewing the pictures etc. Just asume your 'normal' picture taking

behaviour, how many shots can you get out of a battery.

I'm considering buying an EOS 20D and I'm wondering how much

batteries and CF cards I'll need. After all its no use in having

spare CF cards when you cant takes shot because your out of power.

(and its no use buying batteries when your cards are full).

Thanks.

Michiel

Paul,

Regarding focus assist, I use a 1n with 540 EZ where I use the CF to switch focus from shutterbutton to *-button. In this case the focus assist doesn't switch so I'll have to push the shutterbutton to get focus assist while pushing the *-button to actualy focus. This doesn't work verry nicely. If you don't use this button it will work as expected, only the pattern is not wide enough to assist all 45 focuspoints.

Btw, its not IR, its just red light.

Michiel

I build a MS Excel add-in for DOF calculation some time ago, anyone intrested can send me an email.

Melissa, the crop factor makes that unsharpness is enlarged more, therefore you need to use a smaller circle of confusion diameter.

Michiel

Hi there,

Can someone please tell if it is possible to shift the autofocus

action from the shutterbutton to the spotmeterbutton on a 10D? I

currently shoot an EOS 1n and really love this feature after years

of lower range bodies. I'm thinking about a digital body (definitely

not befor the Fotokina) but this feature is more or less a musthave.

Michiel

For a performance comparison look at the link mentioned earlier.

For the dust problems mentioned, think for your self and then lol about some of the commenta you read whenever this lens is mentioned.

Every lens that changes length during zooming or focussing sucks in air (on earth). That is a fact, not an opinion!!! The more the lens changes in length (given the diameter) the more air it will suck in. This has nothing to do with push-pull design. The 100-400 does change in lenght rather a lot, I'm happy that is does, otherwise it couldn't be build that compact. Since it changes this much in length a twist zoom design would be useless: either you can't twist your arm far enough to make the whole movement or the gearing is to high and you can't zoom accurate enough.

Does it really sucks dust? Mine doesn't, I've used it for about a year (about 80 roles, probably for 30% with this lens) now sometimes in dusty conditions and I can't find any dust inside looking through it.

I don't shoot digital (yet) but I will not choose to use the 70-200 f/2.8 IS + 2x converter over the 100-400 for the simple reason that changes lenses and converter adds to the risc of getting dust on the sensor (besides the fact that it's not convenient and the lower resolving power of the sensor will make the optical performance discussion between the two rather senseless)

I think you should try a sample of this lens in a store fo find out if you have a problem with the ergonomics of this lens. I never had a problem with the push-pull design or the balance. After using this lens on a EOS 1n + BP-E2 for 90 minutes continously I my arms did get tired and maybe that is something you should be aware of. The tension ring is more or less an on/off thing, either you can zoom the thing or you lock it.

Good luck

Michiel, Holland

Hi Mikel,

I recognize the symptoms. I encountered the same with my EOS 500n and a Tamron 80-200 f/2.8. I solved it by returning the Tamron lens. Later on it happened with a 50 f/1.8 but it went away again. Lately I have these problems with an EOS 1n and 200 f/2.8, most of the time when I try multiple light readings before I take the shot. It happens with the EOS 1n and 100 f/2.8 with MLU engaged as well. Besides cleaning I have no idea what to do, the 200 f/2.8 has been repaired by Canon last year before I had the 1n (AF didn?t work). The 100 f/2.8 is brand new so I don?t think that is the problem. I don?t know if sending the 1n to Canon is wise since it isn?t worth that much and the complains are rather diverse. Btw, I always use the 1n with a PB-E2 and the 500n with a BP-8.

Michiel, Holland

Hi Jonah,

With f/2.8 and a distance of 2 meters DOF with the 100 mm will range from 1.97 meter to 2.03 meters.

Hope this helpes, I can provide you with an Excel add-in to calculate DOF.

Michiel, Holland

Puppy Face,

You don't have to be a scientist at all to realize that the push-pull design has nothing to do with the matter of sucking in dust.

It's the volume of air being displaced that matters.

I read in EOS magazine something about functions who do work with the cord but Canon officialy can't advertise this because it breaks an american technical regulation.

Sorry I can't be more precize but I read i some time ago.

"So my girlfriend came over and I showed her the dead body. I jokingly said, "You want it?" and i tossed it on my couch. It bounced off and fell on my floor. I laughed and said, "Oh well; not like anything's gonna get hurt."

Last time I showed my girlfriend a dead body she ran screeming out of the house before I could start tossing it around. :-)

Beste Nico,

Ik heb net even mijn 100-400 getest, in principe draait de zoom tension ring altijd mee met de scherpstelring, zo vaak en zo ver rond als je maar wilt. De zoom tension ring kan wel onafhankelijk van de scherpstelring draaien door met de ene hand de scherpstelring vast te houden en met de andere hand de zoom tensionring te draaien. Persoonlijk vindt ik dit niet zo handig ontworpen van Canon. Veel plezier met je lens!

Michiel

Your question has been asked befor:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006zaL

Michiel, Holland

I have the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L USM IS and I love it. With a EOS 1n + PB-E2 it is rather heavy to handhold. I did have some pain in my arms after using this combo for 2 hours continously. Your 10D is a lot lighter so that will not be much of an issue. Then again, the crop factor will force you to use faster speeds for the same sharp images. (due to the enlarging of the image center you'll enlarge the camera shake as well). In my opinion a non-IS 400 f/5.6 is not worth much, but the IS makes it a winner.

A thing about dust sucking: any lens that changes length during zooming or focussing will suck in air and push out air. So stating that this lens has a dust sucking problem can be true, but no more then a equally sealed lens that sucks in/pushes out the same volume of air. Fact is that zooming from 100 mm to 400 mm changes the length of the lens by 88 mm. Considering that the diameter of the tubus is approx 72 mm the volume of air sucked in is 0.36^2 times 3.1415927 times 88 is 358,292.36 cubic mm equals 0.36 liter. So basicly everytime you zoom completely out your 100-400 sucks in more than a can of coka cola!

Michiel, Holland

And now for something completely different:

I upgraded from a EOS 500n (Rebel G) to a EOS 1n, I (including BP-E1 and PB-E2) got it at least 100 Euro less then a new EOS 30 + BP. It has all the features one can think of excluding ECF. Since I allready own a 540 EZ and a nice collection of lenses I'm verry content with it. Although I got it second hand, it is well build so I think it will lest me a couple of years. And if it breaks down I just look at a secondhand 1V or 3.

If you stick with buying new, get the 30 or 30v and the BP, customizing your camera is great!

Michiel, Holland

The biggest glass I own is a small 100-400 4.5-5.6 L USM IS so I can't give speak from experience. Lately I read on PN about someone who purchased a 600 f/4 L USM IS and warned about the additonal amounts he had to spend on a larger backpack (as far as I know only the largers Lowepro backpack is large enough,check the diameter of the lens(hood)), a larger tripod and ballhead. Since you allready have the 500 your tripod will be large enough but did you consider your bag etc?

Michiel, Holland

Jim, I unscrewed the lens mount and but that didn't bring me verry far because of the electronic connections being in the way. Later on I found out that you can seperate the connector part from the back lens so you don't have to struggle with the connectors.

After a while I discoverd that you can pop off the ring on the front end as well. After doing that and unscrewing every screw I could see I still couldn't get to the loose pin. That is where the saw was handy. After sawing of a ring on the back end I finnaly could dismantle the thing.

I really have no idea how one can fix this without permanently damaging the lens. But then again I'm a controller for an investment bank, they forgot to learn me how to fix lenses.

Michiel, Holland

I use to own a 28-70 f/3.5-4.5 II (non USM) with metal mount and focussing scale. It has a rectracting front element It had a reasonable optical quality but happen to break down on me (without falling or what so ever). I took it apart and found out that one of the pins guiding the zooming barrel had unscrewed itself. Btw, besides the lens mount and screws the only other metal part is the inner tubus. All in all it was a nice lens to have.

Michiel, Holland.

Before I had a 1n I used a 500n (Rebel G) with my 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L USM IS, this consumer camera has a plastic lens mount. Although I carried this combo by the strap every now and then I never had any problems with it. With the 1n I always carry this combo by the strap.

Michiel, Holland

Michael,

You are stating that Canon have 3 50mm lenses in the line up. That is true. You are also correct about the f/1.8 and the f/1.4 but the f/1.0 is officially discontinued. The 3rd one is the f/2.5 macro.

Michiel, Holland

I'm being paid by an investment bank, altough I know about 70% of our investments by name I can't say for sure that I'm not being paid by a major company in the photographic field.

If I would look into it I'm sure I (as a Canon shooter) am actually being paid by Nikon :)).

Michiel, Holland