neil_browne1

iIf I remember correctly, my 10D manual says that some studio lights have to

have the polarity reversed with an adapter.This is not the case with my

photogenic lights or my radio slave, but it may be the case with your lights.

I use a 45cl4 & a 60ct4 with my 10D. If you don't have a pc socket on the

camera body, get a hot shoe adapter with a safe sync and set the camera

manually along with setting the f stop on the flash...TTL will not work with your

camera.

I have a 50mm C, non T* and I'm very happy with it usually using it set at f8 -

f11. I find that the most imortant thing to remember with a non T* lens is that

they do not have any coating on the lens elements so they are prone to flare

when outside with backlit subjects. When using in this situation, try to keep

your lens shaded to avoid any flare.(I have an assistant hold up a reflector

blocking the sunlight from striking my lens.) Aside from this, I find that some of

the old Hassy lenses are still great to use.

I use a sigma 70-210 2.8 on my 10D. Once I had the lens re-chiped by Sigma

to work with the 10D it has been great. I was originally going to sell the sigma

and buy the canon 70-200f4L.( I even had one on order at my local store), but

I changed my mind once I began using it with the 10D. I find that the pictures

are very sharp and the focusing quick, and f2.8 is great for indoor sports like

hockey and candid wedding coverage. I might upgrade to a canon70-200 f2.8

L IS, but until then it's great.

buy the A2e, or the EOS 1 if it's the same money (or if not much more).I've

been happy with my A2e for the past 8 years..very reliable with only having

the pc socket repaired this year. I don't own a eos1, but I've considered it only

to have purchased a 10D earlier this year.(so my upgrade will be the1DS

when I can afford or justify it.)

sounds like a great idea!!! I've got a terrific A2e with a vertical grip for

sale..contact me.

Shot christmas wedding..all pictures indoors except for 10 mins of Bride &

Groom outside during sunset over golf course with stone colums. It was a

perfect setting, but after we were done and the couple went inside to start

there diner I discovered that the camera lens had the incoorect exposure

settings.(set for f22 1/500 shutter..it should have been f8 1/30 with fill flash.)

The end result is that what should have been great Show quality prints ended

up looking lke something taken on a old kids 110 camera.

Very loud for in church coverage, I do not use mine at all anymore I prefer to

use a couple of 503 cxi's

I use a 503cxi with a metz and a sca 390, and it reqires a sync cord from the

sca unit to the lens in addition to being connected to the camera body.

Your 135 would help blur the background if you have enough room for you to

use it.(or you could use the 85)

With three rows of players & coaches, I would think that you would need an

aperture at least of f8.5 - f11..try D.O.F. preview to see if they are in

focus.(also, try focusing on the middle row, the front & rear will have a better

chance of remaining within your depth of field)

If you are shooting RAW you can correct white balance later, or use white

balance bracketing.

Also, why not use a flash, or strobe?? It would help keep the image sharp and

let you drag the shutter a liitle to pick up some of the ambient light from the

arena.

Hope this helps.

Today I looked at a Sigma 24-70 f 2.8.

It seems like a nice lens, I ve also looked at the Tamron 28-75 f2.8, as well as

the Canon 24-70 f2.8L. I know the Canon is a great lens, and I'm about 75%

sold on the Canon, but now that I've seen the Sigma I'm wondering if I should

chance it to save a few bucks...any comments on this lens??

thanks for the comment..

I have a sigma 28-70 2.8, and I've had it re-chiped then the focusing stoped

working reliably. This has happened before and I've paid to fix it. I need to buy

a new lens..want the L lens, but if the Tamron is good, I might gamble. Iwas

just hopping someone had experiance with this lens

Is the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 XR Di any good for the 10D. Any comments on this

lens compared to canon 28-70L

I own 3 Hasselblad bodies, 5 lenses,and 5 backs. Ive been shooting with this

gear since /96 (8 years) and have never been let down. I've only had to repair

a shutter in a lens.(even then it was because I dropped the camera)

I used Bronica for one year before I bought my Hassy. equipment, and that

was the reason I went with Hasselblad, Bronica felt cheap, and I found it to be

not as reliable as Hasselblad.

Get Both!!

I use a Hasselblad, and a Canon 10D.

I'm used to shoting everything medium format, but I'm learning when and

where a DSLR may be more appropriate, but it's nice to have both.

Also, after when everone dumps there med. format gear, they will be sorry

when digital backs are more affordable for med. format

I've been using a Metz 60ct4 and a Metz 45cl4 with my 10D. One thing, you

cannot use a module to connect the flash, you need a metz cord with a pc

connection to plug in the pc socket on the side of the camera body.

Also, in my practice so far , I find that you should rate your flash differently

than the camera eg..10D set at 100 iso..metz flash at 200 iso or reduce power

by one stop.

Thanks for all the comments, I called LaCie and spoke to someone..and of

course I didn't it set for the correct platform. It is now set for HYBRID, and it

works great.

thanks

Could someone give me some advice..

I recently have gone digital with a canon 10D. I also have a Mac G3 (blue &

white). I've also just purchased an external LaCie firewire CD burner. When I

burn the disk, I can open it on my G3 but when I take it to the lab or if I give

one to someone, they can't open the disk on their PC's.

Is there a way of recording the disk so PC users can access the photo's on the

disk.

(I'm a novice at this..soryy if it's a foolish question!!)

I took my sigma lenses to my local professional retail store. They sent the

lenses to the Sigma distibuter for me..all no charge

I've seen 1Ds bodies being sold on ebay for a buy it now price of $1600.00

I enquired about it and they are apparently new in box but you have to send

payment by Western Union to Spain. Has anyone out there bought one this

way, or is it to good to be true.

I also have had similar problems with studio strobes, as well as portable Metz

units.

My "fix" for this has been to rate the strobes differently than the camera eg.

camera iso at 100...meter the strobes at 200 or 400. I usually preview on a

monitor what I'm getting and set the exposure accordingly.

The real solution , I think, is to shoot the images raw, and batch process them

in your computer correcting everything.

thanks for your comment, still cant decide, I'm realy not worried about the lens

bulk though, my other camera that I use 90% of the time is a Hasselblad

system and that is a lot bulker than the cannon lenses

Is your shutter speed set at a high speed eg.1/250.

It could be a reason your background is so dark, if you are indoors you could

set it for 1/60 or lower wich would bring out the ambient light.

Neil

I'm considering a 24-70 L f2.8 purchase. I have a 10D, my other choice is the

17-40 L f4 lens. I also use a 70-210 f2.8 lens, and iI want to purchase one of

the two previous lens' to use as a main lens..any comments on either of

these??

Thanks,

Neil

I have a 10D, and have had quite a time getting used to it in comparison to my FILM

based equipment.(A2E & Hasselbad)

The major problem is getting accurate flash exposure.

When I use portable flash, (metz 45cl4..60ct4) I plug the flash in the PC socket on the

side of the camera..when it fires the exposures seem erratic. Also I find that if I turn

down the flash power it helps ex. flash at 400iso..camera set at 100iso, and also if I

plug the flash into my radio slave , and then the radio slave into the body, it seems to

help stabilize the exposures I'm getting.

I have found this with both my metz 45cl4 & 60 ct4 flashes, as well as my photogenic

studio strobs.

Does any one have any experiance with this sort of problem, or advice on using flash

with the 10D??? (so far no problems with natural light)

Thanks,

Neil