neil_browne1

I used to have a 135 2.8SF. I sold it , along with a elan & a Canon70-300 to

buy another lens. Back then I shot all portraits with my Hasselblad, now I'm

using my 10D more and more for all of my jobs. Does anyone think that that

lens(135 2.8SF) sould be replaced as a portarait lens , or should I consider

the 135 f 2.0L, or maybe the 85 1.8 or 851.2

Does anyone know if the tamron35-105 f2.8 have any compatibility issues

with the 10D. Any comments on this lens in general, I might purchase a used

one.

I had sigma lenses when I bought my 10D. I had the 70-210 f2.8 APO, and the

28-70 f2.8, and I had to get both lenses re-chiped as the camera would not

fire..only showing err99 on the lcd screen. The distributer for Sigma had the

lenses shiped from my local camera store where I purchased the 10D, re-

chiped, cleaned, and repaired one lens for me (loose mount & barrel), all at

no charge. Since this was done , the lenses have been fine.

I use the sigma 70-210 f2.8APO, and for the type of shooting you want to do it

would be great. For indoor events you will like the f2.8. One thing, make sure

your lens works with your 300D, I had to send off my Sigma lens's to be re-

chiped to work with my 10D. (cost me nothing, Sigma took care of shiping,

cleaned both lenses, and repaired the loose mount on one lens at no charge)

I'm not sure about the product numbers, but I think I use the same thing.(in

Canada Bogen is not the name used, just Manfroto). The hexagonal plate

has a screw as well as another piece, a outer locking ring similar ( I don't

know the actual name for this piece). Screw in the screw as far as you can

then snug up the outer locking ring. This will tighten the plate against the

camera body.

I hope this is what you were inquirying about.

I would say get out to your local studios and volunteer as a assistant. It's very

important that you work in this capacity for at least several weddings before

you try to shoot one on your own. If you can do this, you will pick up some

technique about posing, dealing with people (especially the family members),

whats expected & the time flow throughout the day. It can be difficult to do

what you need to do to have professional results, so a little experience would

help you. If you can't do this, and if you're friends have high expectations, you

should pass on the job. (you might be able to find a pro to shoot it and hand

over the film, then you could shoot over his shoulder to learn a bit)

I have a Kiev NC2 copy and a Kiev 45 meter prism, I also have a Hasselblad

45 meter prism. I'm sure that you would be happy with any of these, but for the

price, you can't beat the Kiev prism's. I find them bright & sharp, I use three

bodies, one prisim on each and have no problem when I use the Kiev. Of the

two Kiev versions, I would choose the NC2 copy, the meter prism is heaver,

bulky, and somewhat unsightly (it doesn't look as nice as the Hasselblad

version).

There are different levels of soft focus. ie..1..2..3..4 etc.. You could be using a

stronger one. Also when using soft focus, try to use soft light & aperatures

around 5.6. Another thing, I use soft focus more for poses that have the

subject not looking at the camera, such as a bride looking at her flowers, or

out the window, when the subject is looking at the camera with a stong

diffusion filter it really can look out of focus.

The T70 was my first camera 18 years ago, and I still have it. The sync on that

camera is up to 1 /125, so you can sync your flash at that speed or any speed

slower..ie..1/90..1/60..1/45. Use the camera in manual and select your

apeture as well as your shutter speed, then select the corresponding

aperature on the flash unit. Make sure that you select the same iso for both

the camera & the flash unit as well.

Don't feel bad about $50.00, my Lindahl Hood (or actually.. "Professional

Vignetter" ) cost me $550.00 when I bought it. I bought it for my Hasselblad,

and I use it always, but it is $500.00 worth of plastic. I find anything marketed

towards professional, or even serious amateur photographers is priced way

over what it's physical value is worth..but what are you going to do??

I was considering selling all the gear to completely change over and to help

pay for an extra body & the L series lens's I would need. As far as workflow,

right now I shoot and let the labs deal with the negs & printing. Can this be

done easily with digital, or do I have to do the post processing??

I've also thought about waiting for a digital back to drop in price, but with

Kodak discontinuing the ProBack line I question if it's better to switch systems.

I'm not yet decided on the switch, and I'm not making my decision based only

on any advice from here. I'm just trying to get feedback from different areas so

when I make my decision, I'll be sure that it's the right one. Thanks for all the

comments

I'm sitting on 2 503cxi bodies, ELM body, 4 A12 mags,Polariod back, 150cf,

80cf, 80ct*, 50c lens's, 45 prism, 45 meter prism. I wont get enough to get the

L lens's I want, and purchase the 1DS, thats why I was thinking a second 10 D

for now, then upgrade next year. I just don't want to do this and regret it.

I'm thinking of selling all of my Hasselblad stuff, and commiting to digital. I

have a 10D already, and was thinking before the wedding season starts to

now sell all my med.format stuff and getting some "L" lens as well as another

digital body, probably another 10D. I know alot of other guys have already

done this..but I just want to reassure myself by getting some comments.

Thanks

Thanks for the responses so far. I've had this camera a little while now, and

have only made the odd B&W print from it having it done by the lab. Digital is

still new to me so I haven't put much thought to getting B&W from the camera

yet, but now I want to start. I use a Mac G3 and I have photoshop 7, although I

not very proficient in it yet. I'm really looking for an easy way to start with B&W.

I would buy the Canon L 2.8 lens if you've got the money, but the Sigma

would work great as well. I use a Sigma 70-210 f2.8APO on my 10D, and I'm

happy with it's performance. I have used it recently for shooting a kids hockey

team and found it great. If money is a factor, I would choose the Sigma f2.8

rather than the Canon f4L lens, as you will prefer the 2.8 aperature to

seperate your hockey players from the background & other players.

I have always charged one battery at a time in the camera, 12 hours each.

One very important note...make sure that you do not overcharge the batteries,

or they will explode. This happened to me once, and it blew the compartment

door off the camera body. This is why I only charge 12 hours each battery, a

timer might be a good idea to avoid over charging.

You could also consider an A2e or A2 (I think it's also refered to as EOS 5 ). It

has a pc socket so you can connect it to studio flash, and it syncs up to 1/200.

I've used one for years, and I have no complaints.

I use a metz 45cl4 & a 60ct4 with the 10D. I'm not familiar with the metz

modules that you have mentioned, but I suspect that they probably will not

work with the 10D. To use the metz units with the 10D, I connect them via the

pc socket on the side of the camera body and ajust the exposure manually. I

also find that the 10D overexposes by about one stop with flash so you should

compensate with your flash .( I usually rate the flash at a higher iso than the

body.)

I find that ISO 400 works well for a lot of situations with mixed lighting. Also if

you are shooting indoors with flash, I feel that you should drag the shutter as

long as possible to capture the ambiant lighting.You should be able to shoot

groups & individuals at 1/60. or 1/45, or even 1/30 with no problem. I don't

think that you should shoot at 1/200 with flash, it will darken the background

too much in most instances unless you are outdoors in sunlight trying to

balance the lighting with fill flash.

You could get an A2e or A2 cheaply now. I've used an A2e for 7 years

reliably. I don't use it much now because I bought a 10D, but it's been a great

body.

Thanks for the input... I shot this with my 10D with a Sigma 70-210 f2.8 with

the camera on a P program mode. I set up this pose and shot it with my

Hasselblad with fill flash like so many of you suggested, but this was a "grab

shot" with the 10D. I've been trying to get used to the camera and also used to

digital. I shot this in RAW, converted it ti TIFF, and I was most curious as to if

this was the kind of shot easly corrected with post processing. I guess I should

have asked that specifically as to avoid some of the sarcastic responces.

Thanks.

I use a Sigma 70-210 f2.8 APO on my 10D. At first it didn't work with the 10D,

but once Sigma re-chiped the lens , at no cost, it has been great. I've never

used the older canon 80-200L lens, but I've heard it is not as fast focusing as

the newer versions, or even as fast focusing as the Sigma. Also, from what I

have read and heard, this lens is one of Sigmas best.