wolfgang_dreher

<p>Hi,<br>

at first you could try to remove the back, cock the shutter, point the camera to a light source and release the shutter to see if both, the secondary shutter and the lens shutter are working correctly.<br>

But to me it seems more like the back has sticky mechanics, e.g. the back doesn't stop the film winding at the right point? Have you got a second film back to check?<br>

Regards, Wolfgang</p>

<p>It sounds like a battery problem. Are you using an alkaline battery? It may be weak and you should replace it by a lithium (which is recommended by Canon for the F-1N) or silver oxide battery. I had a similar problem with my F-1N, in the "light" mode, the meter needle sank further down althought the light situation didn't change.<br>

Good luck, the F-1N is one of my favorite 35mm SLRs.</p>

<p>I really like the "classic" look of the elder Ektachrome films, e.g. Ektachrome 64 and Ektachrome 100 plus (as far as the are available). Otherwise I use Fuji films like Provia 100, Velvia and Astia. For b/w I prefer Ilford FP4 plus, HP5 plus and Tri-X. I'm using these films in 35mm as well as in 120.</p>

<p>in the 1960s until the mid 70s, there were Agfa Isopan IF (40 ASA) and Isopan ISS (100 ASA).<br>

Werner Wurst mentions in his 1956 book "Exakta Kleinbild-Fotografie" four types of Isopan films made by the west german Agfa factory.<br>

Isopan FF (16 ASA)<br>

Isopan F (40 ASA)<br>

Isopan ISS (100 ASA)<br>

Isopan Ultra (160 ASA)</p>

 

<p>I've got two F-1N, one with the Eye level finder FN and one with the AE finder. There is also a distance between the body and the finder on both cameras and each of them works without complains. So don't worry and enjoy shooting with one of the best FD bodies.</p>

<p>In the 1978 version of the Canon FD lenses manual, they don't mention this feature any more. My BL 35/3,5 SC (built in 1976) also has this switch...<br>

Best regards<br>

Wolfgang</p>

<p>Canon F-1N AE</p>

<p>thank you a lot for all your responses, it was in fact due to a weak battery. It probably took to much power to run the meter an the light...<br>

Best regards<br>

Wolfgang</p>

<p>Hello!<br>

I just received my Canon F-1N with the Eye-level finder FN. The light meter works fine, but if I turn on the viewfinder light, the meter reads several f-stops more. I couldn't find anything about this in the manual. Is this behavior correct?<br>

Thank you a lot for your responeses in advance.<br>

Best regards<br>

Wolfgang</p>

<p>In the 1980 book "Canon FD-Objektive in der Praxis" (Canon FD lenses in practical use) it's also not mentioned that the 50/3.5 Macro lens has floating elements. The author of this book mentions two examples for lenses with floating elements: the 50/1.2L and the 17/4 lens. But I'm quite sure that there are more FD lenses with floating elements. I recently purchased the 50/3.5 SSC from "fleabay" but I'm still waiting for it to arrive. But I haven't heard anything bad about these lenses.</p>

<p>Have you checked whether the foam besides the focusing screen became sticky? Maybe this keeps the mirror in its upper position.<br>

You could also have a look at <a href="http://www.zuiko.com">www.zuiko.com</a> where your OM-2n could be repaired.</p>

<p>Olympus OM-1 MD and Zuiko 50mm f1.8</p>

Hello,

I've got an old Bronica S camera, but unfortunately the shutter is

broken. It is not possible to cock the shutter entirely and the

shutter curtains and the mirror don't move. I hope you can

understand my describtion.

Do you think this camera is worth repairing and do you know where I

could get this camera repaired?

Thank you.

 

Best wishes

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

thank you very much for your answers.

 

I think I have to look for one at ebay because the Minolta Autocord is quite rare in German camera stores.

 

Every Autocord has the same Rokkor 75 mm taking-lens, right? So the quality of the pictures is in all Autocord models the same? Do you know how much elements this lens has?

 

Thank you very much in advance.

 

Regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

I'm thinking of buying a Minolta Autocord. What is the difference

between the Autocord models (I, II and III) except the different

shutters and the possibility of using 120 and 220 film? Have they

got different lenses? Would you recommend buying the Minolta

Autocord I?

 

 

Thank you very much in advance.

 

 

Regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

I'm thinking of buying a Minolta Autocord. What is the difference

between the Autocord models (I, II and III) except the different

shutters and the possibility of using 120 and 220 film? Have they

got different lenses?

 

Thank you very much in advance.

 

Regards

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

I want to buy a Zoom lens for my Canon AE-1 Program.

I decided to take either the 3,5-4,5/35-70 mm or the 4,0/35-70 mm.

Which one would you take? Which one has the higher optical

performance?

 

Thank you for your answers.

 

Regards

 

Wolfgang Dreher

Hello,

 

Thank you for your answer.

What's Presto? Is that a B/W-Film?

Unfortunately there are no Fuji chemikals available in Germany.

Neopan SS is not available in Germany, too; I bought them in Italy.

Is Aiko Lightpan SS still available in Japan?

 

Regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

I think the Yashica Mat 124 G is the best. It has a Tessar-type lens and a built in lightmeter (only from ASA 25 - 400). It is smaller than a Mamiya C330. But with the Mamiya you could change the lens.

I own a Yashica Mat 124 G and I've made great photos with it.

Rolleiflex and Rolleicord a good cameras, too. But they are more expensive than a Yashica Mat.

 

Regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

try www.canonfd.com

there are a lot of Canon manuals.

 

Best regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

Thank you for your answers.

 

No, the prints with the pink base were OK, but the prints with the dark gray base (Film developed in Rodinal 1+25) were not good.

 

Best regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

I use a Yashica Mat 124 G which I' ve bought cheap at ebay.

It is really a great 6x6 camera. The Yashinon is a great lens. The built-in light meter works exact, too.

I also own a Yashica T2 with Carl Zeiss Tessar, a great camera, too.

 

Best regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

Thank you for your answer. I' ll try Rodinal in 1+50.

I've used Ilford ID-11 in 1+0 (I think that's "stock solution")

 

Best regards

 

Wolfgang

Hello,

 

does anyone know a good developer or a better dilution or time for

Fuji Neopan SS?

I have tried

Ilford ID-11 and Agfa Rodinal 1+25. But with ID-11 the film

was "pink" and with Rodinal the film was gray, impossibile to make

good prints with. I am from Germany, so my English isn't the best.

Thank you for your answers

 

Best regards

 

Wolfgang