eric_m4

<p>Hi John, when you say "Early Wisners were excellent. Later on, he changed manufacturers and the quality plummetted", At what point did the quality plummet and how would you know which one was an early or late model one?</p>

<p>Getting back into Large Format after many years away. Back then Wisner cameras seemed very popular and well talked about. I believe Ron Wisner (not positive but pretty sure he was owner of Wisner cameras) was a regular contributor to <em>View Camera</em> Magazine. Anyway, I recently went on ebay to see about picking up a used one and this page came up:<br> http://www.ebay.com/gds/WISNER-CAMERAS-/10000000001422107/g.html</p> <p>Not sure what happened in last few years but it seems like there's not that much Wisner gear out there. Since Wisner was a popular name in LF I would think there would be plenty of them on used market. Are Wisner cameras poor quality products or did collectors snatch them up or what?</p>

<p>After several years of shooting digital I decided to take my Bronica GS-1 setup out of storage and noticed what looks like tiny snowflakes on inside of the 100mm lens. I'm assuming it's mold or fungus or something else that's not supposed to be there. Anyway, is there a fairly simple DIY solution or should I just scrap it and get a new lens? It's very visible when you look down lens barrel but surprisingly I don't really notice it when I look through veiwfinder but I would like to prevent it from getting worse. Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Any bird/wildlife shooters tried or compared the "Harbor Digital Design XT Flash Extender Kit" (http://www.harbordigitaldesign.com/xtl-1flashextenderconversionlens-1.aspx)<br> to the Better Beamer Flash Extender? Which do you prefer? Why? Thanks.</p>

<p>Do you have to mix the whole packet of D76 or is it better to mix as you use it? I'm wondering which is best way to store it. Can unused portion of powdered mix be stored, for example, sealed in a bag after packaged has been opened? Or should you just mix the whole thing? How long can it last? Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Tim,<br> I have a Nikon 1.4 TC II I use with my 70-200mm 2.8 I think works great. I've always heard 2X TC owners complain about image quality but I still would like to get one. I came across a site that claims to be shots all taken with the the new Nikon 2X TC III. The shots are very sharp. I don't know if its heavy post processing or great optics or what, but the images on this site are pretty impressive. <br> https://www.flickr.com/groups/tc20eiii/</p>

<p>I guess I should've specified the best method in the "Poor Man's" category of processing. I don't have the money for one of those Jobos. They sound nice but I meant <em>by hand</em> - using tanks, trays, metal hangers, etc... All the comments are interesting.</p>

<p>I was wondering which is the "best" way to develop B&W 4 x 5 film ("best" meaning the method that is less likely to scratch, crease, etc.. film). I have a Doran tank that holds about 12 sheets in individual slots. I also have metal film holders that get dunked in a small tank but I never use them. I've heard some people just drop them in a developing tray and just rock tray back and forth like when printing paper is in developer. Which method do you guys think is best? I ask because I'm getting back into shooting LF film after a long time away from it and I'm afraid I might scratch the film during processing. Digital has spoiled me a bit. Thanks.</p>

<p>It sounded interesting when I first read it but after some thought even if you precisely focus on the ground glass the image is on the film, which is in the film holder - on the side furthest from the loupe/ground glass. The thickness of the film holder is even thicker than the ground glass. I don't think it was someone trying to "sell loupes" but I do think it was someone splitting hairs. I'm fine with my "slide viewing" loupe.<br /></p>

<p>Haven't used my LF cameras in a while and came across an old review on the "Bender" kit camera. When they mentioned using a loupe the description they gave was: <em>"Make sure it's a loupe that works with a ground glass, since the image is a few mm from the end of the loupe, due to the thickness of the glass. A loupe designed for viewing slides won't work, unless you can adjust the focus."</em> I've always used a loupe designed for viewing slides and never had a problem. Is this what is normally used? </p>

<p>Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Keep it as receiver and get a new PlusX. It was a good idea to double check camera hot shoe, thanks Craig. I like PocketWizards but they do have a flimsy feel to them. </p>

<p>Hi Ellis,<br> I did change the batteries but it didn't help. I'm not sure it's the hot shoe because the "test' button doesn't work either whether it's on camera or being handheld. The test button only works when it's attached by cable to a flash. It's a weird quirk. Seems like whatever circuitry does the transmitting is dead. The receiving part seems to be fine. I believe it's a discontinued model, does something like that get sent back to PocketWizard for repairs?</p>

<p>I have three Pocketwizard Plus II Transceivers and one of the transcievers was working fine on camera yesterday but today it will not transmit from camera, it only receives when attached to Nikon SB-800's. Test button also does not fire when attached to camera hotshoe but it does work when attached to flash by cable. Everything works fine when attached to flash by cable. I changed batteries, tried different channel(s), tried different mode settings: remote, local, and both. It seems like its just screwed up but I'm hoping someone out there in Photo.net land knows something I haven't tried. Thanks.</p>

<p>If you shoot a High School sporting event for a local newspaper and then decide to sell other photos (not published in the newspaper) to a national High School sports magazine, do you need a model release? Newspapers never ask but I'm assuming they got permission to be there to shoot event. A national lacrosse, baseball, etc... magazine didn't hire you to shoot event and High School players are also under 18 yrs old. Just wondering. Thanks.</p>

<p>Hey Dilom,<br> Does this lens collar help:<br> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QPOT7M/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_img?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1P688035FX0TC&coliid=I7J497WFBS0MG</p>

<p>I don't even think people put images on their computers. Whenever anyone wants to show you a photo they show you on their phone. And when there's no more space on cell phone they just delete older photos. It's strange to think that a lot of people will not have photos (prints or otherwise) to "go down memory lane" when they are older and want to show their kids or grandkids. My parents have shoe boxes full of photos of family events over the years. I agree, prints are history.</p>

<p>Hey Rodeo, I removed the inner ring but the T2 mount is not exactly same size - close though. I would geusstimate about 3-4 mm larger. The pinch screws that came with it are smaller than the gap between lens thread and T2, so they wouldn't be able to hold lens in place. But even if I don't have longer pinch screws I still may just glue lens and T2 together. Good call on your part, thanks! But a new problem has arisen. When I hand hold lens up to camera against Nikon T2 mount I have to pull lens away from camera about 5-6 inches and it gives a very magnified view of a subject that is about 3-4 feet away, which is pretty good if I want a close up view of something I want to stay away from such as skittish or stinging insects. When I attach other non-enlarger lenses for macro purposes it's the exact opposite - I have to get <em>much closer</em> to subject. Is this normal for an enlarger lens? I'm I always going to have the lens extended that far away from camera? Thanks again everyone.</p>

<p>All very helpful suggestions but Mike just reminded me of a youtube video I saw a while back where someone used a can of pringles potato chips as a long extension tube. The can was attached by gluing (or attaching it somehow) to a Nikon camera body cap with a hole in the middle. Not sure how secure body cap will be with that extra weight. I'll try that or some variation of it. If there are any more suggestions just keep it coming. Thanks guys.</p>

<p>I have a darkroom enlarger lens (135mm) I would like to use as part of a macro set up. The lens does not specify screw thread size on end that screws <em>into</em> enlarger (actually, previous owner had glued lens into enlarger), so I measured it with digital calipers and it measured 45.08mm. There are no screw threads on front of lens so I'm not able to screw on an adapter to that end either. I searched on eBay, amazon,... but I cannot find an adapter of that size to fit my D7000. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Hello all,<br> The last couple of weeks there have been a couple of discussions on monitors. I've never heard anyone say that Apple monitors were bad but I have heard many people (on Photo.net and elsewhere) say you can get better. I was thinking of getting a 21.5 inch iMac but if there's a better monitor out there, that kind of defeats the purpose of getting a built-in monitor. Half the price of the iMac is probably the display. So if I want a Mac with a better monitor then the one they offer which way do I go? I currently run CS5 on Windows 7 with no problems, both video editing and (mainly) photo editing - sometimes simultaneously. My current Windows 7 setup has:<br> Processor: Intel® Core i5 CPU M480 @ 2.67GHz 2.67GHz<br> Installed memory (RAM): 6.00 GB (5.68 GB usable)<br> System type: 64-bit Operating System</p> <p>Which is less than the Mac mini, which makes me seriously consider the Mac mini. It does more than what I currently own and I can add my own monitor. My current set up will probably last me right through CS6 (if I ever decide to get it) and maybe even CS7 and beyond..., so I would expect even more performance from a Mac mini. BTW, the Mac mini I was looking at had:</p> <ul> <li id="coherent_id_199" >2.6GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7</li> <li id="coherent_id_200" >16GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2x8GB</li> <li id="coherent_id_201">1TB Serial ATA Drive @ 5400 rpm</li> <li id="coherent_id_204" >Apple Keyboard with Numeric Keypad</li> <li id="coherent_id_206">User's Guide (English)</li> <li id="coherent_id_212" >AppleCare Protection Plan for Mac mini - Auto-enroll</li> </ul> <p>Wondering if that's the way to go. Thanks everyone.</p>