mlynch

Daniel:

 

Actually I was thinking print film for a reason. You can get print film developed very quickly. I suggested it because you can tell if you have shutter or light leak problems faster. Once a viable battery is installed the meter should work reasonably OK.

 

You are right, if you want to check for just metering problems slides would be the way to go but in my experience that's less likely to be the issue right off.

 

Regards,

 

Mark

JT:

 

If the camera has been sitting for 20 years the battery is probably dead. The mercury batteries used in the FTBn cannot be purchased. I'd suggest that before you jump on the CLA that you Goggle CRIS Camera Services and get an MR-9 adapter. They work very well and allow the use of standard watch/hearing aid batteries. Hit the site it will tell you which currently produced batteries will work in the adapter.

 

If the camera body has been stored in reasonably dry and cool conditions you may not need a CLA right away, but I am reasonably sure you will need a fresh battery. After you get the adapter, I'd suggest getting a roll of 100 speed print film and take a test roll.

 

I can second Essex (I know it's not in CA) but they do good work.

 

Best of luck.

 

Mark Lynch

Chris:

 

I hit the send button before I was done. Dale's number is 800-327-1776. I'd call them first.

Try Dale Labs.

Scott:

 

When you say that the lens, "has no power to the AFS motor" do you hear any noise at all when you are trying to use auto focus?

 

I may have a similar problem with my F4s, so I'm very interested in your response.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark Lynch

Rick:

 

Get a copy of VueScan. I found the software that comes with Minolta scanners to be very difficult to use, particularly if you have a lot of images to scan.

Lex:

 

You're absolutely correct. Anthony, sorry about the mistake.

Anthony:

 

On the OM-1 you should be able to set the ISO (ASA) settings for each shot using the film speed dial on the top of the camera. Start by exposing the film as your meter suggests. Leave the shutter speed and aperture ring the same and just move the film speed dial. It's in 1/3 stop increments.

Fred:

 

I'd suggest that you try 400 speed film as others have suggested. I prefer the Kodak UC400 for prints and Fuji Provia 400F for slides. In my opinion the pop up flashes are only just OK for fill flash outdoors. To improve your indoor work I'd suggest either the Minolta 5400 or 5600 series flash units with a StoFen Diffuser. Try KEH or B&H for a used Minolta flash and you can save a lot of money. I think you'll find two things will improve. First, you'll get much better general illumination and "brighter" images. Second, because the larger dedicated flash units are further from the axis of the lense you'll elimate red-eye. The use of the diffuser along with bouncing your flash does a nice job.

Dan:

 

My apologies to EK. Actually I found that PORTRA 400NC scans well in my Minolta scanner. Porta 400NC is very hard to come by ...

Dan:

 

I know you said print film, but I own the same scanner and have the best luck with Provia 400F or Sensia 400, when I have the need to use a 400 speed film. As I'm sure you have found, on the Scan Dual II, slides are a lot easier to handle.

 

I've found that Porta 400NC does best on the SDII if I have to use print film. I'm using Vuescan and the recipe for this film in the program seems to work very well.

 

Best of luck

Vincent:

 

To my eye the bottom image is washed out. The top image could be just a little brighter. Here are some suggestions (try one at a time):

 

Try using "image" as the media type on the input screen of Vuescan instead of slide film. (Not an original suggestion, Vuescan's author suggests this). You'll find that when you do this you no longer have a film choice on the color tab of Vuescan.

 

Nudge the brightness to 1.18, leave the white point at 0.5.

 

Check your monitor calibration. Like I said, the top image to me looks better. I cussed my scanner out for weeks until I realized that my monitor was the problem.

 

Lastly, if the "image" media type doesn't fix the problem for you, try using the "generic" film type for E-6 or "ektachrome" setting under Kodak. Velvia is an E-6 process film.

 

If none of these work email Vuescan and ask when there will be support for the LS50.

 

Best of luck!

Michael has got it correct on how to diagnose the magnet problem. I don't agree, however, that you have to find a replacement body. Several good repair shops (see elsewhere on this site under recommendations)will include this repair under a CLA charge. I recently had my 7000 fixed and it works well.

Todd:

 

If you are attepting to make adjustments to your scans based on what you see on your monitor make sure it is calibrated or can be. As a test, I'd suggest making a scan with no alteration and look at it on another monitor. You might find that the weak link is your monitor, not the film, printer or scanner you own. I struggled for a long time with a monitor that was too "dark", despite the brightness being maxed and the color temperature being set to what most suggest. I found I was making adjustments to files that didn't need them and always seemed to get washed out results when printed. Also, if you are using the Minolta software you may find your results will improve by moving to Vuescan. I found the Minolta program made it difficult to get consistent results, due in part to poor documentation and a clumsy user interface (in comparison to Vuescan). You can get a free trial download of Vuescan on the web.

E100G or E100GX, Provia 400F

 

I have a Scan Dual II and have obtained good scans from all 3.

 

Have a great time.

What software are you using with your Minolta scanner?

If it is just between Canon and Nikon, go with Nikon. You'll never have to worry about being stranded with a bunch of lenses with no credible way to upgrade the bodies you attach them to. Canon made a huge mistake years ago sticking many loyal customers with FD system lenses and no upgrade path. They'll probably do it again.

 

If you do a lot of flash photography, and are just starting out with a new system you may want to strongly consider Minolta (particulary the 7). They have some nice lenses in the range you are looking for. They have a very sophisticated and flexible flash system. In addition, the new digital SLR that is due to ship in the fall takes all Minolta AF lenses and has image stabilization built in the body, not the lens. Worth a look.

I second Raymond's suggestion regarding CRIS adapters. I've had very good luck with them. The Zinc-air batteries don't last long and don't have the same discharge characteristics as the original mercury batteries or the silver oxide batteries you can use in the CRIS adapters. Another advantage of the CRIS adapter is that you can almost always find a 386 battery,not so the Zinc-air. Since batteries almost always crap out when you least expect it, this is a big plus.

Duane:

 

My experience was that the aperture magnet problem on my 7000 occurred after the camera took a pretty sharp bump. Until that point, I had about 7-8 years of use from the camera. I then bought a 450si, thinking all was lost. The 450si has never had a problem.

I sent the 7000 to Essex Camera Service in New Jersey and they revived it. The 7000 is a sweet camera, still my favorite to use.

 

I also own a Canon AE-1 and an FTBn. I think that I would expand on the Minolta, they have a digital SLR coming later this year that should use the AF lenses that you have. I use the Canon's for strictly daylight/outdoor work. The flash systems available for the 7000 are superior to what can work on most of A FD series cameras.

That's a first in my experience. Sorry you had that happen. I really don't think that is indicative of the quality a number of us have come to expect from them. I'd encourage you to contact A&I at their website and pass along the feedback.

I second Michael Moon's suggestion. The Minolta 100mm Macro is a wonderful investment. I find that I use this lens the most.

Between Philly and Harrisburg sounds like Lancaster. If your near Lancaster, try Delta Imaging Center on Prince Street.

 

http://deltaimaging.com/

 

Have a good trip!

My E6 experiences have also been good with Kodak. A&I is improving, my last 3 rolls by them were better in terms of both the mounts (see an earlier post) and the turnaround time (was twice as fast as it had been early in the fall). Kodak, because I'm reasonably close, still is my first choice, but if I were on the West Coast I'd probably go with A&I. Fuji is really getting slow.

 

I sometimes wonder if "processing scratches" isn't really a problem with the camera. In my case I have a Canon FTBn that before it was CLA'd always left a slight scratch on the first one or 2 shots on the roll.

I think A&I, Kodak(yes, Kodak) and Fuji are all about the same. From a quality standpoint they have all done well for me. Fuji and Kodak mounts are easier to use if you do a lot of scanning. A&I's are plain white, both date and shot number are embossed and not printed. When you scan and sort a bunch of slides this lack of a hint as to where the emulsion side is, gets old fast. A&I for me was the longest delivery by a wide margin (over a week longer). I'm on the east coast and Fuji and Kodak had A&I beat by over a week.

 

My best advice is try for a local lab. I have had consistently good results using a local camera chain in South Central PA. They send their slide work to someone in Reading, PA. I can get 2-3 day delivery and haven't had a quality problem yet. If I need faster, there are several good pro E-6 labs that offer 24 hour or better turn around time, for a slightly longer drive and a few more bucks.