pascal_miele

some microfilm cameras use unperforated film.

You can, eventualy, find Kodak microfilm, it's not in the classic photographic catalog but in one of the many specialized catalogs.

be careful microfilm is hight contrast film not classic photo film.

Your local Prolab use the Tmax RS dev, it's not a bad dev, it's a very good dev !

The problem is the classic over dev of BW films in labs. If you can obtain a shorter dev in this lab (probably no) it's good. If you can't 3 solutions:

- find a lab with a "normal" dev, and it's not a problem of developer

- try the chromogenic BW film, the lab has no way to change the dev with C41

- develop your films

bye.

like David, skip the presoak.

If you are too grainy and contrast, this can be an artefact of the scaning not the film grain.

Try a classic silver print before any change to the process.

with same density you will have same tone....

but only tone, grain can be different.

When you measure the density you must use a densitometer with a sensibility equal to the paper sensibility (blue and not visual)

If you compare a chromogenic and a silver film the silver has Callier effect with condenser enlarger.

conclusion : the experience need many controls and prove nothing !!!!

Yes the same level of light give the same photographic effect, and it's good for photography !

With your Tmax 400 use Tmax Dev or Xtol and the speed will be 400 and more.

In my opinion Tmax 400 with D76 is 400, but not if you have a special dev or your own way for the speed.

For your Diana use TX or Tmax 400 and D76 ou other similar dev.

If the Sprint dev is a compensating developer no problem.

The Diana is just a big camera&film.... no choice for exposure. The film must have a very large exposure range.

The holy book (the print) is true�It�s the holy book!

The ZS need to be adapted�.. when it�s false�.it�s true !.

After a long reading of Adams and others, ZS is FULL of inconsistency.

Look to the original sensitometry and lets Adams RIP.

Try the Microphen with the nominal ISO and look at the ilford.com website for times.

datasheet for films and dev are very good ont the ilford website.

in USA HD is 400

in France HD 135 is 200

in France HD APS is 100

It's the SAME emulsion !!!!

When you increase ISO you increase the grain too.

With color negatives with a 400 you can shoot from 50 to 800 with no problems.

and with a BW (chromgenic or classic) ???

try it, with C41 or a good classic dev !

Michael says

"I now want to explore ways to modify the response curve in the interpositive to improve shadow seperation in the final print."<p>

Mike: the copy 4125 was the perfect film for this use.<p>

A copy film is an "inter-negative" between two paper positive, you need a highter contrart for the shadows (of the original) you need also hight contrast for HL but it's not possible with a classical system (need a HL mask).<p>

The copy film as interpositive is a good way to improve shadows in the 2nd negative<p>

<a href=http://wwwfr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/bw/catalog/kodakProfessionalCopyFilm4125.jhtml?id=0.2.10.22.28.26&lc=en>4125 data</a>

Michael the good film for this work is (was) the Kodak copy 4125, but it's too late. this is a discontinued film.

It was the ONLY film on the market with hight contrast shadows.

Here in France many photographer use RB for wedding photo, with and without tripod.

I know a photographer specialized in climbing who use a RB...yes in mountains, suspended to the rocks !!!

an old system the gossen sinar-six

the minolta booster yes, but with a clear glass not the "classic glass".

in the 1 liter bottle European HC 110 is like the US one,

but you have a 500 ml bottle with a pre-diluted HC110.

You can psh a 100 film to 1600, 3200 or 6400 and even 450 000

but only if you don't want a picture !

C41 films are not "pushable-films".

keep your 800 at 800

TCP is not a true lith film but a very hight contrast film:

kodak datasheet:

http://wwwfr.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/p255/p255.jhtml?id=0.2.10.22.24.16&lc=en

The photographic effect of 1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1 is inferior to 10.

If you add this to Reciprocity and shutter errors....

Use your film and your camera for photography !

If you can drink it.....you can use it for dev !

The chemicals for photo use are not 99.9999999 pure, it's only industrial grade.

Pure water is a unnecessary luxe (except for some special process like some alt process)

For BW many labs use manual process and they can use no clip attachment.

For E6 or C41 dev it's a machine dev, with nitrogen burst, a good attachment of the film is indispensable....and you have clips marks !

A way for no clips dev is roller transport machine, but this type of machine is not very frequent because it's very hard to have a clean dev with no scratch.

POP is VERY slow

POP is negative, not positive.

A best way would be a classic paper with reversal dev.

Bon courage !

VR Plus 200 is a way for Kodak to be on the cheap film market: It's an old generation film.

This "bad" film was the very good one 4 or 5 years ago !

A good minilab must use sensitometric test for C41 dev. Results are reported on a graph. You can ask to see these graph.

In a good lab the four curves must be near the four 0 axis, in any case the curves must be inside the doted lines.

You can ask to see the sensitometric charts, if the lab refuse or if they don't have, it's not a good sign.

For scrathes there is no scientific test.... only experienece of consumers !

Color printing has a great part of subjective judgement. Fuji Frontier is a very good machine and give good prints. A pro lab give very good results too (if it's a good one !) but not exacly the same. If you want the same result you must send your 4x6 as a model.

The old sixticolor is not a very good tool. Sixticolor measure only red and green. For an acurate measure you need a 3 light measuring (red, blue, green).

With a 2 point measure you can't have acurate indication with non-linear light (fluo light, xenon light, hight presure gaz light, etc...).

A Thermocolor meter is expensive, for the price it's good to have a tool usable when the light is not easy !

the new gossen (colormaster 3F) is very good and the minolta are excellents (probably the best on the market)

You should make a (very) primitive colormeter with comparative measurement behind red (29) and blue (47) filter.