robert meier
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Posts posted by robert meier
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<p>KEH has a Bargain M6 TTL for $1120 and an Exc one for $1299. They have an exc M Motor for $399. I think $1200 for both is as close to a steal as you'll ever find.</p>
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<p>Let me guess -- it has a lightmeter?</p>
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<p>Kent, that is a wonderful picture! Can you give us more technical detail on it -- camera, lens, exposure, etc? Was there one flash in front of each silo? How did you balance the flash with the ambient? Thanks, Bob</p>
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<p>What lens is that? It doesn't look like a Leica lens.</p>
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<p>The Pradovit is for projecting 35mm slides, not movies.</p>
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<p>These look very, very good. The last one is mistitled: it should be Sunday on the Banks of the river Marne.</p>
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<p>Splendid work! I love to see an M3 and B&W film put to such good use.</p>
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<p>It has no adjustmment for ASA because it doesn't need one. It doesn't need one because it doesn't have a light meter.</p>
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<p>Very interesting. The R80-200 was made by Kyocera, wasn't it? How does the R80-200 compare to the R90/2.8?</p>
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<p>I wouldn't buy either of them. An R3 or an M4 would give you better results and you would be happier using them.</p>
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<p>The 35-70/4 is the best zoom lens I have ever used, equal to the best primes.</p>
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<p>In my experience, the D40x is a better camera than the D200. I've used them both, and the D40x produces better results, especially with the 50mm G lens for portraits. More subtle colors and details, better overall pctures.</p>
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<p>Fuji still makes instant films. Check B&H.</p>
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<p>I have owned and used both, and it is a hard choice: both are very good cameras. The Sawyer's Mark IV, which is the model had many years ago, has gone way up in price. The Baby-Rolleis have stayed around $200, give or take. But the main question is, what film can you get for them?</p>
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<p>Get a 50mm lens and you will be very happy, and there are many choices that will work beautifully on the FM2: 50/2, 50/1.8, and 50/1.4 AI or AIS lenses, or the 50/1.8 Series E lens, or a 50/1.8 AF or AFD will also work very nicely. All are compact, sharp, and focus quickly and accurately through the viewfinder. All will make very high quality pictures.</p>
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<p>You push in the center button on the left-hand wheel (from shooting position) while turning the right-hand (aperture) wheel, and the shutter speed won't change. To permanently disconnect the EV settings, push in the left-hand wheel and turn it enough so the lines don't line up any more, and release it.</p>
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<p>I have used the 18-55 for quite a while and have been very happy with it on my D40x. However, two weeks ago I got the 50/1.4G and last week I took many shots of my 4 year old grandson with it, and the pictures are just STUNNING! I shot at f2 and f2.8 most of the time, indoor available light portraits, and the background is beautifully out of focus and his face and eyes and hair are just as lovely as I've ever seen in a portrait -- detail is superb, color is subtle, and the three dimensional effect is outstanding. </p>
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<p>Patrick, I bought a MAHA C777 Plus-II charger new last year to charge my SLX battery. It worked fine and then I sold the SLX. I've got the charger sitting here in the box with instructions and everything that came with it. Want it? Bob robertmeier@usjet.net</p>
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<p>Unfortunately, the answer to both of those questions is yes. I just checked the camera, and PRINT is still showing, and I bought the batteries last week.</p>
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<p>Danny Webster's link is to the complete manual for the MF-24 and I have been reading that. Thanks, Danny. I got it all set to imprint the aperture and shutter speed between the frames and shot a roll with it. Results? NOTHING! No imprint between the frames or anywhere else! I'm ready to give up.</p>
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<p>It IS counter-intuitive!<br>
Richard, thanks very much for your detailed instructions -- that is just what I need. I have tried it and have found out how to have it imprint either between or in the frames, and to cycle through what it will print so I can have it print the aperture and shutter speed. HOWEVER, when I move the Function bar around the periphery of the LCD, at most positions the Select button does not make anything blink, so there is nothing to adjust with the up-down buttons. Is it not working right?</p>
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<p>Jim, Thanks. I found their page on the MF-24 and it gives a diagram and a label for each part of the LCD screen, but that's not enough. I need the instructions too. Bob</p>
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<p>I've gotten the MF-23 for my F4 and I can't figure out how to use it, nor can I find any instructions on the internet. Can anyone help?</p>
Leica
in Leica and Rangefinders
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