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<p>I had the same thing happen recently due to firewire/windows 7 issues...<br>

sandisk extreme cards did (do?) come with a rescue pro minature CD, and it solved the problem for me once I put the card back in a usb card reader. <br>

That software has saved me about three times now...</p>

<p>try mpix</p>

<p>its not an adobe problem, its a calibration problem, I almost guarantee it!</p>

<p>you most likely toasted your calibration profile. Fixing photoshop won't fix it, you have to fix the calibration. I would guess that you pressed the puck into the monitor too hard or didnt have it flat against the screen... try tilting the screen back a bit in order to allieviate those problems and try calibrating again... the reason internet is fine is because it isnt color managed, and I think bridge can be set that way too, so they ignore the bad profile.</p>

<p>as long as you turn high speed sync on, it should do the rest! =o)</p>

<p>I bet its just a matter of turning high speed sync mode on.. I am a nikon user, so I dont know how to do it on your camera, but in certain nikons it is off by default.<br>

the shutter speed being at 1/200 and the blown out background are strong indicators that the camera wanted to be at a higher shutter speed but essentially wasnt allowed to because the high speed sync wasnt on.<br>

av mode should provide better results than this.</p>

<p>most likely your camera doesn't support high speed sync... your shutter would have been, lets say, 1/1000 for this shot if you were using no flash in av mode. Because it detected the flash present, it lowered the shutter speed to 1/200, the max sync speed, and the shot was blown out... the way to rectify that is to close the aperture down so that 1/200 is acceptable, use high speed sync (which might not be possible) or don't use flash.</p>

<p>I think her head tilt should be the other way a little, or straighter... thats one comment that you can use to improve... I think the second shot should be framed or cropped more like the first too, which is a common trick I use... it eliminates awkward hands. <br>

The bigger problem, to me, is her clothing. I think it kind of sabotaged the shoot and that a lot of the frustration with these images is the lack of shape in the clothing, or the wrong shapes that are introduced.</p>

<p>Almost all of my indoor candids are shot with a prime lens... I may crop a bit, but 85 1.4 and 105 f/2 are my bread and butter on FX... If I have to shoot at f/2.8 indoors, even with a D3, I am usually using flash too. If you think about using screwdriver focused lenses, the D3 is better than the D700, but if you are thinking a 2.8 zoom and a D3 or a D700 and an 85 1.4 or 105 f/2, I would vote for the latter, specifically when shooting candids indoors.</p>

<p>millerslab.com does. the 'low volume' or consumer division, mpix.com probably does also. </p>

<p>a jack of all trades is a master of none.<br>

if you are really looking for an everything lens, get an 18-200vr... it will do everything okay. <br>

I would highly recommend a 35 1.8, a 50 1.4afs, perhaps a tokina/tamron/sigma/nikon ultra wideangle if they make one with afs or hsm or whatever its called. perhaps an 85mm lens if there is an afs version of one of those...<br>

until you get into wide apertures, its really hard to figure this stuff out, I think.<br>

a flash can make worlds of difference too... sb-600 and a 35 1.8... that might do!</p>

<p>by the way... another good website!<br>

<a href="http://www.projectorcentral.com/">http://www.projectorcentral.com/</a></p>

<p>bhphoto.com!</p>

<p>1024x768 should be a minimum, agreed... its all about controlling the light, though. If you can make the room really dark, most projectors will be okay.. if you can't most will stink.<br>

When we project, bright light shining on the double layer curtains is enough to diminish contrast a bit, and an open window would make it unuseable. Our projector is a 2000 lumens model.</p>

<p>A d90 would make the image slightly better, and a D300 would likely assist in getting better autofocus results. The next leap in image quality, though, as far as high ISO would be a D700. An upgrade would help you, likely, but I would save for a full frame camera and then probably not upgrade again until the year 2025. =o)</p>

<p>I am not the original poster, but I currently have a wireless mouse, wired mouse and tablet connected... My wife prefers the wired mouse and I grab the wireless one when I sit down... it works fine!</p>

<p>Thats strange... if I leave my pen on the tablet it prevents the mouse from moving, but I usually figure out why kinda quickly... if it were just the brushes it might make me nuts for a week too!<br>

Glad its fixed!</p>

<p>opacity or flow set to 0?</p>

<p>there is a way to reset photoshop to all the defaults.. I think you have to hold ctrl when it is opening. If not, try shift or alt. It should fix the problem.</p>

<p>millers lab should probably be added to your list. if you are low volume, check out mpix, but I am not sure if they offer all of the different canvas options that millers does. (same company, just different divisions)</p>

<p>You may try calling whcc. It looked like they had more options than most places, and while I dont recall seeing that exact card, the 5x7 wide format card made me think they might be able to do it. It could be, though, that the commonly used card stock comes in 11x14 pages max or something that makes it impossible to make something that big.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Ring flash can be murderous lighting on less photogenic subjects... be careful there.</p>

<p>My current thought is to use a black cloth backdrop with a net or carefully strung christmas lights in front of it... then move the subjects very forward on the backdrop, probably at least 8 ft away, and shoot maybe at f/2 or f/2.8 with very careful posing so that everyone is on the same focal plane, but yet I have a really out of focus background.</p>

<p>I found that in certain situations all thick filters could vignette on that lens, so I bought a thin one. It could also be that the lens hood wasnt clicked into place.</p>

<p>look at used a nikon D2H to start. They should be really cheap and do a great job shooting sports, with pro level autofocus and 8 frames per second.</p>

<p>google photoshop swirl brushes... i downloaded two sets and I was happy with one, but I have no clue where I got it from anymore!</p>

<p>I've used all of the original straps for all of the cameras... the pro bodies, though, have much better straps, as the D3, D2X and D2H nikon straps are far superior to the D70, D100 straps... once you use the better ones, the short ones that come with the little bodies are hard to use.</p>