panos_voudouris

A lens and a flashgun! It is night and day compared to the built in one. If you don't want to

fork out for a 430EX, look for a used 540EZ or 430EZ.

"Apparently it's such a serious problem for some that they prefer to complain about the finder over shooting photographs."

 

Does waiting for 3 seconds for a camera to start up if a problem for you? Does pressing the shutter button but the shutter being released 2 seconds later is a problem for you? Does not having mirror lock up, selectable exposure mode, high fps or instant feedback instead of waiting for 5 days for film to be developed is a problem for you?

I think that copy is not good. I had the 2.8 and have the 1.8 and the difference is nowhere near this. Mind you, I don't pixel peep, I just look at the prints and the (mid-res) scans. In any case, even if the 1.8 is softer, it has better bokeh, colour, construction, has USM, looks good and makes shots with DOF and bokeh like the one attached at f/2 possible.

 

I think, for all the people who worry about it too much, get the f/1.8 and if you don't like the results then go back to the f/2.8. I won't even if you paid me.

Randy, how many shots do you take per flight? A decent MF system will be 1/3 the price of

a 5D but the film development, print and scan will easily catch up and exceed the cost of a

5D in no time.

 

Don't forget, the Earth from the Air project was shot using Velvia and 35mm cameras and

I've seen 3 meter prints in exhibitions which looked great.

http://www.yannarthusbertrand.com/index_new.htm

Unfortunatelly, the only real way to deal with this is to either have a zoom or have two

bodies! Quite cheap with film cameras, but with dSLRs...that's another story. Generally, I

think that more than two lenses per body are too much of a juggle, unless you can plan

the conditions and know what you will use.

No, shoot at 200 or 320 and don't tell them anything, so they develop it as if it were 400.

</a> There.

I wonder if this will work... </a>

Stack a couple of filters on the lens? Get a UV filter and make a filter out of it by painting

it? Putting a rubber hood for 50mm on a 28mm lens?

 

Apart from that, I read that the 20mm has quite a bit of fall-off but I don't have one so I

wouldn't know!

Yakim,

 

I'd be very interested to hear your impressions of moving from the Elan 7 to the 1D.

 

Panos

"2. The ET-65 III is a lens hood for both 85/1.8 USM and 135/2.8 SF. It seems a bit peculiar to me as the first has a 58mm filter thread and the latter, 52mm one. What am I missing? "

 

And I believe the 100/2 too. As said, the hood thread and the filter thread are different. The only sure thing is that the filter thread cannot be bigger than the hood.

 

For the 28/1.8, you can always get a generic hood that screws in the filter thread. The filter thread is part of the lens body so there are no problems damaging the motor, unlike on lenses where the front element moves/rotates.

Wildlife is out of the budget, you need long lenses for that and they all cost 800 or more,

if you want to get something decent.

 

You can either get one of the 24-85 or 28-105/3.5-4.5 USM zooms which are an

improvement over your current lens. But the best you could do is get a prime lens. I would

pick one of the following: 24/2.8, 28/2.8, 28/1.8, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/1.4, 85/1.8 or

Tamron 90/2.8 macro. They each have their use but are all excellent lenses. Have a look at

the archives for discussion on them.

And that one

 

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-300mm-f-4.0-L-IS-USM-Lens-

Review.aspx

If you want a zoom get the zoom. Otherwise the 28/1.8 is a great lens. I love the handling,

colour and bokeh of mine.

 

Also, if you were not happy with the 28/2.8, the 35/2 won't do you any good either, they

are more or less the same lens.

 

If you want more range you can always get a 85/1.8, 100/2 or 135/2.8 (or the 135/2 if

you can afford it!).

Abe, try http://www.peak-imaging.com They are excellent (recommended in magazines

by professionals, etc) and processing costs 3.50. You get the film back in a pro sleeve so

you save 10p on that too. :-) So far, I have never got a film back with any dried chemicals,

scratches or even dust on it. It makes scanning so much easier.

If you really hate changing lenses that much, get a second body!

On the bokeh discussion, the Tamron was almost as bad as the 28/2.8. The 28/1.8 has superior bokeh and colour. The 24/2.8 might be better, might not, don't know.

I don't know about the rest, but buying a 4Mp camera with an older sensor over a 8mp camera with the newer sensor design does not look like a wise decision to me. Sure, the viewfinder is nice and the build quality better but everything else...

I had the Tamron 17-35. At f/4 it was as sharp as my (ex-) 28/2.8. Generally, I didn't find

sharpness to be a problem using it with film. What I didn't like was the bokeh and the fact

that it was a lot more flare-prone compared to the prime. The bokeh probably won't be

better with the 24/2.8 but flare resistance will be a lot better.

 

Given the limitations and price, for a 17-something zoom it was excellent and I don't think

I'd fork out for the 17-40L even if I had the money.

The EOS 3 has a faster and more sensitive AF system than the 30, especially if you use f/2.8 or faster lenses. However, the EOS 30 AF is not by any means slow and will certinaly be adequate for most normal shooting, unless you are shooting high-speed sports or something like that.

 

The reasons to get the 30 against the 3 are: lighter, smaller and quieter. Everything else is better in the 3.

Forget jessops. Try 7dayshop.com or mx2.co.uk. You can buy professional film for half the price of a Kodak Ultra at Jessops.

"However, when you use non-Canon lenses you open yourself up to other problems such

as degrading AF over time. I know, I had to have my 1D repaired due to non-Canon lens. "

 

How did AF degrade when you were using a MF lens?! Unless you mean using a Tamron/

Sigma/Tokina lens but still I don't see how AF is affected.

 

How do you know that L glass is better than Nikon's most expensive? I don't, that's why

I'm asking.

It looks to me that the shoe laces are more in focus than the mesh. It becomes more

apparent at the f/4 shots, where the detail on the laces is much better than on the mesh.

Have you tried www.bristolcameras.co.uk?

Amazon is hardly a photo dealer, in fact it hardly lists anything non-digital photo related at all.

 

Jessops is also shifting towards digital cameras but they will still get you one if you walk into a shop. Although they will ask for Canon's listing price, you'd be better off looking at smaller shops for one.