nano_burger
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Posts posted by nano_burger
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<p>50 caliber ammo can (any Army/Navy store). Cut hole. install plexiglas window for the camera to look out. Operate with ir remote. Will have to be weighed down because it will float.</p>
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<p>I once used mason jars for photo chems, but stopped because (as noted) the tops will rust fairly easily. Also, I used the two part lid which was a hassle. They don't pour well. However, since they have a wide opening, pouring into them works well. The wide mouth is a net problem though because it gives a large surface area where the chemicals are exposed to air. Because of that and I guess because they are clear, solutions don't last as long as they would in a proper container. <br>
If you really like glass, through the power of the internet you can order 1 gallon, brown glass bottles at several places. I like plastic myself, less chance of getting a gallon of fixer all over the bathroom floor. </p>
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<p>John,<br>
Yeah, my way is only one way to solve the problem. I did the write up because I did not see any visual instructions although there is plenty written on the subject. <br>
The great thing I've found is that KEH are almost giving away bodies with this problem. It is obviously not worth their time to fix.</p>
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<p>My take on resolving the dreaded (early) EOS sticky shutter problem. Hope this helps someone out there!</p>
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<p>With the Time Magazine Promotional camera, the sticker is an important structural element of the camera! I like to refer to it as a, "Load Bearing" sticker. </p>
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<p>I took a trip to Germany to find a place to stay when I'm stationed there this fall. My wife is a big fan of recycling, so our car was gradually filling up with cans, paper, and plastic recyclables. While we were on Sembach air base, we stopped in at the recycling center to get rid of the lot. While standing on a platform, I looked into the "light fractions" container and saw a sea of new VHS tapes and a bunch of Kodak film boxes. I climbed in and rescued 53 rolls of film. <br>
The German employee that ran the place was not too happy with me crawling around his recycling, but my wife (who has excellent German language skills) was able to explain that I could recycle the film by actually using it for its intended purpose. He seemed to accept this pretty well and let me walk out with the film.<br>
Interesting variety, but mostly high ASA black and white and color film dated from the early 1990s. Probably forgotten in some lab or back corner when digital camera started coming out. The real find was 5 rolls of HIE. Probably was not stored that well, so no promises on the quality, but should be fun to play with.<br>
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<p>I've been giving my Bronica ETRSi a workout recently and have been enjoying the increase in exposures that comes with 645 cameras over 6x6. However, I'd like to upgrade to 220 film to get even more exposures without having to reload the camera. Since black and white 220 film is hard to come by these days, I want to slit down some 105mm microfilm and make my own 220. I can use the paper backing from 120 film for the starter and follower papers, but I don't know the measurements of 220 film. IE, how long is the leader, how long is the film and how long is the follower? Also, just how far along the leader is the reference mark to line up with the 220 back? I'd appreciate anyone that can give me this info. Thanks. </p>
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<p>My favorites:<br>
"Hey babe, lets go into the darkroom and see what develops."<br>
and<br>
"What you put behind the lens isn't nearly as important as what you put in front of the lens."<br>
I think that was in response to the digital/film wars that still flare up time to time.</p>
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<p>Thanks for doing these experiments. Very useful!</p>
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<p>I have the EOS 10qd version. I originally got it because it can be used for IR film. I assumed that it had some sort of mechanical counter for sprocket holes, but close inspection indicates there is none. There is a couple of rollers that can possibly be used for film placement. I tested this by using 35mm unperforated microfilm. I had to punch one hole in the leader to engage the take up reel. The camera loaded the film correctly and advanced as normal….all with no sprocket holes. After developing the film, the frame spacing seems perfect. I do not think this camera counts sprocket holes at all. It figures it out from either a roller measuring film passing through the film gate or the motor in the takeup reel keeps track of revolutions. I’d say the first though as the motor theory wouldn’t work well for different film thicknesses. This is a happy revelation for me since I have a lot of microfilm and my other clunky attempts to modify cameras for the unperforated film have been less than satisfactory.</p>
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<p>You can still buy Technidol at Unique Photo in NJ. It comes in nice single shot packaging (to make 8 oz).</p>
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<p>Jack, <br>
You can still get microfilm in 105mm rolls that you can slit down to any size you need. I slit it down for my Kodak 3A. Surplushed.com has some old Kodak ortho copy film that is 105mm wide. It works fine in camera at about 25 ASA. Best thing is you can slit it in red light instead of a totally dark as you have to handle the microfilm.<br>
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<p>Gabor, I have never seen old new stock of the 7000, but an examination of my two camera bodies seem to show the pattern of white in the seldom handled areas and clear on the commonly handled areas. The affected rubber parts are the ones that are put on the hand areas. Plastic is used elsewhere.<br>
Given your "in the box" experience, perhaps ozone and UV exposure is required for the development of the bloom?</p>
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Alan,
The White stuff is called "bloom" and it is actually sometimes engineered into the rubber to protect the rubber from dry rot. Dry rot is really just damage caused by ozone, UV, Cosmic ray and whatnot. Dry rot makes the rubber craze, turn brittle, crack and shrink. It may also just be poor rubber formulation where some component has reached its solubility limit. Many times heating the rubber will make the bloom disappear as heat increases solubility. Heating rubber is not advised though as most rubbers shrink when heated (kind of opposite of what you would think).
You can clean it off with any good detergent cleanser, but it will eventually come back. If you use the camera with any regularity, it will naturally rub off and you will not even notice. However, if you store the camera for a while it may build up again to visible levels.
By cleaning it off, you are not degrading the protection (if in fact it was there for that purpose) of the rubber as once it is on the surface, it has already done its job.
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<p>5-Star made lenses for many types of camera. As I recall, they were somewhat like Vivitar...not the highest quality, but they worked well enough.</p>
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<p>Update: The lens is crap and the body is fine. I got another body for $5 on eBay. Once it cleaned up, it seemed to work fine, but the lens did not. As a final test, I got another lens (a telephoto zoom) that focuses just fine on both bodies. <br>
My Minolta kit has grown while trying to figure this out. Funny, I'm really a Canon guy at heart. <br>
Anywho, anyone have instructions on how to disassemble this lens? I'm hoping it is a bad or corroded solder joint!</p>
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<p>Larry, I guess I should have answered you a few years ago. Best combo I found was Pyro WD2D+ at Tri-X times and 200 ASA. Still not the grain I was looking for, but it seems to work as a grainy black and white film.</p>
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<p>Now that would be cool!</p>
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<p>Tuan,<br>
I rigged an external battery pack to a Spectra in my conversion of the camera from Polaroid to regular negative film. I was able to run wires outside the camera that attached to the terminals on the inside. Probably not the way to go since you will also have to have the film pack in there as well. I'd drill some small holes in the botton of the camera where you could attach wires to the terminals. You would have to probably wire glue the wires on and reinforce with epoxy. One everything is in place you can make it light tight with black paint (probably not required). Here is the link to my hack if it helps:<br>
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<p>Mark, <br>
I enjoy bringing old, forgotten formats back to life. Some are easy like fitting 120 into a 620 camera, some are harder like converting a Polaroid Spectra to shoot negative film. I guess I could simply toss those cameras into a landfill or put them on display on some dusty shelf, but I feel you can still use those optics to create unique images. The fact that few people see the value in doing this just makes it more appealing to me.<br>
I would love to see what I could do with a Kodak Disc camera! There are more than enough cameras out there, but I'd need to have several disc film cartridges to take apart. These seem to be a lot rarer. It says a lot on just how poorly people thought of that film format!</p>
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<p>I'm thinking pinhole with welding lens window...</p>
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<p>Instructions on how to use APS film in your I-Zone Polaroid Camera. Fun mod and you get to use your I-Zone again!</p>
<p>Cheers!</p>
The Amazing Fotochrome Camera
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
Posted
<p>OK, to wrap up an old thread, here is my Fotochrome tutorial:<br>
<a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Mama-Dont-Take-My-Fotochrome-Awayyyy/">http://www.instructables.com/id/Mama-Dont-Take-My-Fotochrome-Awayyyy/</a></p>
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