paul a. roid

<i>they look way too cheap for good quality cards, Josh.</i><p>

overnightprints is actually very good, they use a very nice card stock<br>

and the print quality is great too - I use 'em since a few years now.

I'm looking at negs and high resolution scans (I work in the prepress<br>

industry and have access to an Imacon and a drum scanner)<p>

anyways, mystery solved - the film advance on the Mamiya 6<br>

broke and I returned it an hour ago... that Mamiya was junk - thanks all

thanks for all the help so far... I investigated a little bit further last night<br>

and can definitely say it's not a sharpness issue. The rangefinder is aligned<br>

properly and the lens alignment seems to be fine from what I can see on a<br>

groundglass with a loupe.<br>

the negs look very sharp under the loupe, in the meantime I need to check the<br>

digital end. thanks again, Mark

same film (Tri-X @400 & 1600), same developer, same scanner, same subject matter<br>

a bit of street and a pavillon in the park across the street... you won't believe the

difference<p>

I'm going to post samples as soon as I have access to my files.

same film (Tri-X @400 & 1600), same developer, same scanner, same subject matter<br>

a bit of street and a pavillon in the park across the street... you won't believe the

difference<p>

I'm going to post samples as soon as I have access to my files.

hello all,

I just picked up a used Mamiya 6 (from Adorama) in good shape, with a 75mm -<br>

the lens is bright and clear and everything is working well. Intentionally<br>

I planned to replace my trusted old Rolleiflex with the My6.<p>

To my disappointment, the Mamiya doesn't hold up to the Rolleiflex (3.5E),<br>

in image quality that is.<p>

The Mamiya images look murky and flat and lack detail... the Mamiya lenses<br>

are said to be stellar performers. The 'flex blows it out of the water... <br>

Does anybody here have similar experiences? Or did I just get a bad sample?<br>

Either way, I will return the thing tomorrow morning.

thanks for your help,

Mark

I faced the same problem some time ago and simply used a standard strap,<br>

hooked to the camera with some small key rings:

<center><img src="http://www.markushartel.com/pnet/flex-strap.jpg"/></center>

a TLR works quite well with fast film and zone-focussing.<br>

otherwise the focussing process is much slower than with<br>

an SLR or RF, which makes it hard to use a TLR for candids.

A friend of mine does glamour photography and uses PAM<br>

with great results

it all depends on your vision - if you're not happy with the 35,<br>

ditch it. For me, the 35 is my normal lens - it gives my pics a good <br>

feel of room and environment (my working distance with this focal<br>

length is usually 6-8 ft.). The 50 on the other hand feels very tight,<br>

making it almost a portrait lens, which might be what you're looking<br>

for. Good luck with your pick...

<p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/december05/coney-news.jpg"

border="2"/><p>M6 & 35mm 'cron ASPH - sidenote: the 50mm 'cron beats the hell out of

it

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/november05/red-face.jpg"/><p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/november05/IMG_2682.jpg"/><p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/november05/IMG_2685.jpg"/><p>

sometimes I use a fill in contrasty light, exposure set for the environment...

<center><img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/april05/26-april500.jpg"

border="2"/></center>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/june05/lingual.jpg" border="2"/><p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/june05/bike_and_hydran.jpg" border="2"/

><p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/december04/covered.jpg" border="2"/

><br><br>I use this lens 95% of the time... needless to say: I'm loving it!

I have been using a Holga with a hotshoe flash (Vivitar 283)<br>

The Holga's aperture is around f8 and the shutter speed around<br>

1/100 sec. ISO 400 film works pretty well, since it still picks up <br>

some ambient light<p>

<img src="http://www.markushartel.com/blog/december05/motor-trend.jpg"/><p>

the build-in flash might not be powerful enough

<center><img src="http://www.markushartel.com/pnet/m6-1231.jpg" border="2"/></

center><br>M6 TTL, 35mm 'cron ASPH, Tri-X @1600 in Diafine

<center><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3943837-md.jpg" border="2"/></

center>

try scanning at highest resolution (3200 dpi). I had the same thing happening<br>

with lower (1600 or 2400dpi) resolutions, the scans were very soft.

Diafine is great with the right film at the right speed.<br>

Compared to other developers, the results can be a tad bit <br>

flat, since Diafine "protects" the highlights - which is a good<br>

thing for low light photography. The results definitely don't <br>

look like your standard developer (HC-110, D-76 etc. blahblah)<p>

That being said, I love the results of Tri-X shot at 1600 and dev'd<br>

in Diafine. The grain is not much more than with your standard<br>

developer @400.<br>

I have tried other films and the results were not as great.<p>

Delta 3200 @2000 develops a horrid grain, tones are nice though...<br>

Neopan 1600 @2000 works well indoors in flat light, but the <br>

shadows are blocked - this combo doesn't work well outdoors.<p>

Some people report great results with slow films, but I don't see<br>

the point. <p>

To make a long story short Tri-X & Diafine is a lovely combination,<br>

I use it 90% of the time...<br>

Yes, it is possible to develop different films at spec'd speed at once.<p>

Another great thing is, the solution can be used over and over with <br>

no loss in quality (my recent batch is 6 months old and needs to be<br>

replaced only because solution A is running low.)<p>

Another plus is temperature independence (within reason).<br>

The spec development times are a bit short, 25%+ gives more <br>

consistent results.