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gabriel_benaim

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Posts posted by gabriel_benaim

  1. <p>Hi everyone,<br>

    I just recently got back from my first portfolio review at the Rencontres d'Arles festival, and wrote up my thoughts and suggestions for other photographers interested in such things. Here's the [url=<a href="http://gabrielbenaim.blogspot.com/]link[/url">http://gabrielbenaim.blogspot.com/"]link[/url</a>]. Let me know what you think, and send me any questions you may have about the whole process. It was definitely a worthwhile experience for me, one I'd recommend if you're interested in promoting your work.<br>

    GB</p>

  2. Hi all,<br /><br />Just wanted to let you know my new site is up and running, and I'd love to hear what folks here have to say about it, both its content and form. All of the work up now is 8x10 contact prints, either on Azo or Lodima. The address is:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.gabrielbenaim.visualserver.com/" target="_blank">http://www.gabrielbenaim.visualserver.com/</a><br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />GB

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  3. Hi all,

     

    Finally got the De Vere home in one piece, and have started trying it out. It

    sure feels well built, and the low focusing knobs are a great design feature.

    I've been using a condensor enlarger so far for my 6x6 and 35mm work, and some

    of the flatter negs which I print at G4 on it can't barely get enough contrast

    at full magenta filtration on the DV dichro head. I tested it w the ilford

    filters too, soo it seems to be a diffusion effect. Now, I know about the

    contrast difference between cond and diff sources, and have just re-read the

    relevant section in Ctein's book, but am still a bit surprised at how little

    contrast I'm getting at full strength. I still have to reprint my important

    6x6 work to see how it looks, and before I remodel my very small darkroom to

    fit the DV and remove my Durst condenser, so I'm curious if this is something

    you just live with using a diffuser head, and from now on just aim for

    contrastier negs, or whether there's a way to squeeze more contrast out of thhe

    diffuser and therefore not have to keep the condenser around. Anyway, learning

    all the time, glad to get some experienced input,

     

    GB

  4. Hi All,

     

    Well, I found a local college geting rid of their darkroom, and they have a

    free standing De Vere 4x5 enlarger. I may not get a chance to see it before I

    pick it up, and was hoping someone here can tell me what its dimensions are (to

    see how big a car I need) and how to best take it apart. Thanks a lot,

     

    GB

  5. It's not light leaks, and the hangers are stainless, tanks plastic. It might be that some of my hangers are Carr, nt Kodak, and have much less holes in them, so I'll try it w just the kodak hangers.

    If rodinal were the culprit, why would it only show up on some of the sheets and not all?

  6. Hello,

     

    As some of you might remember, I'm in search of a method for deving 4x5 that

    works consistently and can be done w DBI. So I'm trying tanks and hangers, and

    keep getting one or two sheets in every batch with higher density along the

    sides, in the shape of the hanger rails, very straight lines. In one case, I

    got a denser bottom rail. I've been using Rodinal at 1:50 and 1:100 w pre-

    soaking and agitation for 15 secs once a minute. I'm guessing the problem is w

    the agitation. So far, I've followed Bruce Barnbaum's instructions in is book,

    of lifting out of the tank, tilting to one side without stopping at the end,

    neither slowly nor fast.

    If any of you have dealt w this problem successfully, tell me what worked for

    you. Thanks, and at least I'm not getting scratches in the middle of every

    shot as I was w shuffling!

     

    GB

  7. Hello,

     

    I live overseas, and recently had a friend in the states send me some sheet

    film. He sent it by ship, so it'll take 4-6 weeks, and it'll probably be

    exposed to a lot of heat. So, I was curious just how much I should worry

    about this? Will the film definitely be fogged on arrival, or will it just

    have a shorter life span? Isn't most film shipped by sea nowadays? Thanks,

     

    gB

  8. Brian,

     

    I did the tests without a camera, just put some paper in them and put them outside for an hour. The fogging pattern looks like a triangle with iits base parallel to the flap, in some cases one triangle on each side (no scanner, sorry).I'm thinking of just getting some newer ones and not bothering to fix these, as there doesn't seem to be an accepted fix and diagnostic. Thanks for your help though.

  9. Hello All,

     

    Having gotten a bunch of holders w my camera, I tested them for light leaks w

    paper and most of the wooden ones leak from the loading flap side, none from

    the darkslide side. One has torn tape holding the flap, but the others have

    intact tape. What's the best way to fix these leaks? Do they usually have to do

    w wood that doesn't fit together right after all these years, or is it usually

    tape-related? All help appreciated,

     

    GB

  10. You definitely need a permit to use a tripod, but from what I understood while in Palenque (very much worth a visit), it can be gotten in a few days. Mexico City is definitely more dangerous than the countryside, so watch your back. Always try to have someone call a cab for you or use one of the taxi stands so there's a record of which cab you get on. This way there's a greater deterrent to foul play. Cops, especially feds, are known for their criminal activity throughout Mexico. Nevertheless, I wouldn't hesitate going back there in a second, especially the southern states of Oaxaca and Chiapas. The whole area around Palenque is filled w natural water attractions, and San Cristobal is lovely. There's a small Indian town near SC called San Juan de something or other which is well worth the visit, if only to see their church, in which they still practice daily a syncretic christianity out of a text book (people know about it from their use of Coke bottles in their rituals). Definitely take a smaller format camera. I travelled w a rollei, and a small 35mm p&s. Have a great time.
  11. I usually carry my mf gear in a small market cart, and walk around parks and rivers wheeling the stuff around. In the desert I've worked out of my car, but in jungle areas I've had to carry the gear on my back. I'd like to keep it light if possible, which is why the Gowland is attractive. If it's too fussy to use movements on, however, I would reconsider.
  12. Hello,

     

    I'm debating which of the two to get as my first 4x5 field camera,

    and wanted to get some experienced input. The Sinar is 3.5 times

    heavier but more solid and easier to use movements on. The Gowland

    doesn't need a bag bellows for short lenses, and can be extended for

    using longer ones I think. I don't know how much I'll use the

    precision movements the sinar offers for landscape work, and I don't

    really intend to do architecture or table-top stuff. Is the lack of

    positive detents a real pain on the Gowland? How do most people

    zero them in the field? Another consideration is the Gowland comes w

    a 90m/6.8 rodenstock for $325 total, but the lens has some fungus.

    I figure it's almost the price the camera alone would fetch. Oh, I

    also already own a couple of lenses, a 150 caltar and a 240 sironar

    5.6. I was wondering whether the 240 is too heavy to use on a

    camera as light as the gowland. Thanks in advance,

    GB

  13. It may just be that I don't like the look oftmy in 35mm, or that I don't yet know how to make it work. The main problem I've had is a kind of flatness especially in the midtones (skin tones) which I haven't had w other films, like tx and np. There also seems to be great variability in how it looks depending on the type of light, much more so than other films.
  14. Ellis,

     

    Thanks for the link, that's the style I'm interested in copying. I really like compositions w several points of interest w that wide look. I'd seen Nachtwey using a wa zoom in the movie about him, but was unaware that it was standard issue PJ gear.

    So, what is it about an slr wa zoom, as opposed to a rf wa prime, that lends itself better to that kind of work? Is it the precise framing, the close-up focus, the ability to change fov quickly, all of the above?

    If I want to do that kind of work, would you reccomend I switch my gear?

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