pam_r

Patrick,<br>

Is Scott Kelby sending you commissions? ;-)

<p>I almost always use curves/levels adjustment layers, so I've gone into Keyboard shortcuts and changed the default ctrl+M/ctrl+L from the Edit menu to use with adjustment layers.</p>

<p>To do this, go to Edit>Keyboard shortcuts and under "Application menus", look for levels and curves under Layer>New adjustment layer. When you use ctrl+m/ctrl+l you'll get a warning that they are in use. Just hit "Accept". Don't forget to save the set with a unique name.</p>

<p><i>"...using the lens blur tool with an alpha mask is painfully simple."</i></p>

<p>That is true, nothing painful about it. The difficult (not always, but frequently) part comes in <i>creating</i> the alpha mask ;-)</p>

<i>"The thing is I want to graduate the amount of blurring between these two points (and carry it on into the distance)."</i>

<p>You can easily do it by using the gradient tool on a mask. This will let you control the transition of sharp to blurred. You can make it very gradual or very abrupt depending on how you draw/drag the gradient. The basic layers setup would look something like this:

<ol>

<li>Top layer - your original image blurred/attach mask/black to white gradient on the mask</li>

<li>Bottom layer - your original image</li>

</ol>

<p>Using the Filter>Blur>Lens blur filter will give better results than using gaussian blur.</p>

<p>The plug-ins mentioned will work also, but in any case, you may need to create a "depth mask" to create a convincing DOF effect, no matter what software you use.</p>

Hi Mark,<br>

<p><i>"What process do you use to get those skin tones in your portraits? Im using Elements 6.0"</i></p>

<p>I usually use curves or color balance. I think Elements has those tools.</p>

Mine has been online for over 4 years. The earlier stuff is at the bottom. It's not much, but I've posted along the way as I've improved my PS skills...<p>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/transformations">Transformations - before/after gallery</a>

The photographer has a few styles in his gallery. The one the OP pointed out (moored ships) is done with textures, dodging and burning. I have some examples in my gallery here:<p>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/transformations">Transformations gallery</a><p>

How to do it? Here's one tutorial I wrote a while back:<p>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1006&message=14196783">Texture tutorial</a>

Hi Mike,<br>

I used a different technique, pushed it to the extreme for effect, and added more x-processing.<p>

But Tim's technique works well and will give you a more refined result. Just dial down the high-pass radius depending on the size of the image (here I used 7 px for Ellis' example), and watch the shadows or they'll become black holes ;-) I didn't use any masking here so you can see the straight-up result.<p>

<a href="http://upload.pbase.com/pam_r/image/92587201.jpg">Tim's technique on Ellis' example</a>

Also adding a bit of contrast helps. If I may, Ellis, here's your shot with a little extra PP. Something like this is close, I think:<p>

<a href="http://upload.pbase.com/image/92582072.jpg">Ellis' shot with a little extra PP</a><p>

Pam

Hi Chris,<p>

I misspoke earlier. That's what I get for thinking off the top of my head without PS in my hands :-)The example I gave was for shades of gray. The proper method to change black is to keep the solid color blend mode set to "Normal".<p>

The reason you can't use replace color with black is that black has no color (hue), therefore no saturation. The only change you can make to black in the Replace Color dialog box is "Lightness".<p>

Here's what the setup looks like:<p><div></div>

You can't replace color on black. To change the color of black, try using a Solid color fill adjustment layer set to "Color" mode. It will look something like this:<p>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/image/92319339.jpg">Using a Solid color adjustment layer</a><p>

I had a play with one of your images. I don't think it was over saturated, just that the color wasn't contributing anything to the shot. So I converted to b+w using the channel mixer and toned using curves. I like how the 2 masses of darks balance each other out against the pale bg. Also the dynamic movement of the group of people walking into the frame:<p>

<a href="http://upload.pbase.com/image/92257608.jpg">Image 6819 v2 - monochrome</a>

The posting and discussion of before/after shots is one reason I have stayed with the DPR Retouching forum for over 5 years. While I have nothing but high respect for Emre and his work, I have to disagree when he says, "Such a forum would not interest anyone except the people initiating the threads."<p>

When I first started digital, I searched high and low for this type of information. It was non-existent. It's vital for any photographer who wants to move beyond the "adjust color balance/levels/sharpen/done" workflow that seems to satisfy many. While there's nothing wrong with that, many of us want to pursue a more artistic approach.<p>

The advantage of a before/after showcase as opposed to a "post something you like and we'll tell you how it's done" format is that sometimes your creativity will be sparked by seeing a technique someone else has used. Or perhaps they have refined a technique you've been interested in learning more about. This is not to say you'll necessarily copy it...sometimes it will be a springboard to developing your own style. There's a reason artist's like to go to museums and galleries. They are feeding their imagination and creativity.<p>

Here's a gallery I started 4 years ago to give you an idea:<p>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/transformations">Transformations</a><p>

Here's the link to the DPR Retouching forum. All manner of how-to and constructive criticism available 24/7 :-)<p>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/forum.asp?forum=1006">DPR Retouching forum</a>

<i>"What I'm seeing is that what changes is how much of the brush's 'circle' fills in depending on pressure. Is this how its supposed to work?"</i><p>

Yes. The "circle" is the size the brush is set to on the brushes options bar. IOW, that's the max size of the brush. Max pressure will fill in that circle.

Hi Joel,<p>

I'm the "teacher" you referred to from the DPR thread :-)<p>

My goal on that tutorial (written over 2 years ago) was not to get the specific look you've posted. It was a general guideline for working with textures.<p>

The style your looking to emulate uses textures, among other things. I'm in the process of writing a more extensive tutorial for this type of look. Until then, find some textures, experiment with blending modes, color, contrast, etc. Those looks are time consuming, manual labor jobs that require individual attention. There is no "magic formula", just a set of guidelines. There are many tips and tweaks I could give you, but I don't think this text box will allow me enough room ;-)<p>

Here's a bit more of what I've done if you're interested:<p>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/transformations">Transformations</a><p>

Pam

Sorry, I forgot your question #2. There is a very good reason to reach for the pen tool for smooth edges, it's fast (once you practice with it for a bit)and gives the best results. The pen tool gives you the smoothest, most accurate selection possible on hard and/or smooth edges. Like the jaw line of the doll in your example. You can compare yourself. Pen tool the doll head and extract it onto a black or white bg. Then use the lasso tool to extract. Zoom in close and examine the edges.<p>

It's not the best tool for ALL extractions (hair and fine detail, for example). But it's one more tool in your extraction/masking arsenal.<p>

Pam

Yes, Jammer, you are on the right "path" ;-)<p>

There are many "styles" of working when using the pen tool. Here's something that might help. If you go to the pen tool option bar and click next to the "splat', you'll see an option called "rubber band". Check it off. Now you'll have a kind of preview of what the next point will do. If it's headed the wrong way, just alt-click on the previous point. You'll soon get a feel for the way the tool works and maybe you won't need the rubber band one day :-)<p>

BTW, I'm in the process of creating something involving the pen tool that will help you. If you're interested, e-mail me. There is no money involved :-)<p>

Pam

Here's a good source for many different types of inkjet papers:<p>

<a href="http://www.inkjetart.com/art_papers.html">Inkjet Art Papers</a><p>

They also have a forum where you might get some answers:<p>

<a href="http://www.inkjetart.com/forum/index.php">Ink Jet Art forums</a><p>

Another couple of options for you:<p>

- GIMP - it's a free PS-like program and you can certainly do the coloring you'd like. You don't necessarily need PS to do that, although it is THE most complete digital darkroom out there should you decide to go back into photography whole hog again. I don't know if there are any issues with Vista. Check the gimp.org site.<p>

- Buy a decent scanner, handcolor your digital prints with Marshall's oils, then scan them into the computer and print out as many copies as you want.<p>

Eugene,<p>

Your image #1 is fantastic! It looks like a Gregory Crewdson piece. The only difference is that he uses dozens of lights.<p>

I have a calibrated monitor and from what I see, if you add even a smidgen more contrast you'll lose the incredible detail you've kept. The tree trunks, for example, stand out nicely from the bg. There's still some nice detail on the near side of the house.<p>

It's seriously spot-on perfect. Don't mess with perfection :-)<p>

I haven't attempted HDR yet, but if and when I do, your's is the look I'll be striving for.<p>

Pam

The status bar only shows up when using Maximize or Standard screen mode. To cycle through screen modes, hit the "F" key.<p>

In addition, using CS3, if you right-click the black triangle next to the info while in Maximize mode, you can choose from a drop-down list of options including "Current tool", "Efficiency", "Document size", etc.