pam_r

<p>Every image needs a bit of a boost out of the camera. You'd be surprised at how much difference a small

increase in contrast/hue+sat can make to a digital image. You can also play around with Selective Color to adjust

the purity of color and/or target colors in Hue/sat using the drop down list.</p>

<p>Also, regarding the images you referenced...lighting helps a lot. Sometimes you have to wait for the good

light...patience pays :-)</p>

<p>It doesn't take much to make an image pop. Here's a simple before/after example. I increased contrast slightly

using

curves, boosted the saturation a little, and burned here and there slightly:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/106548990/original.jpg"></p>

<p>Here's the original image, straight out of the camera:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/106548466/original.jpg"></p>

<p>As is the Bible of Restoration/Retouching:</p>

<p><a

href="http://www.amazon.com/Photoshop-Restoration-Retouching-Voices-Matter/dp/0321316274/ref=cm_cr_pr_sims_t"><u>Katrin

Eismann's "Adobe Photoshop Restoration and Retouching"</u></a></p>

<p>If you haven't chosen the underline option on the character palette, maybe try trashing your preferences file.

First, save a copy of your current prefs (just rename it).</p>

<p>Just to verify, here is the setting for underlined text:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/105981287/original.jpg"></p>

<p>Very basically, it works like this...</p>

<p>Darken your image by adding a 100% black layer on top (if you want the over-the-top midnight black look), or by

using a curve something like this (if you want it darker, push the endpoint further down):</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/91980210.jpg"></p>

<p>Then just add a layer mask and using a soft black brush, paint away the areas you want lighter, and punch up

the contrast.Here are some examples that I've

done:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/image/91637856/original.jpg"><u>Lioness</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/image/91637675/original.jpg"><u>Lioness - original</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/image/48184594.jpg"><u>Time</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/image/48184592.jpg"><u>Time - original</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/image/104536986/original.jpg"><u>Man</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/image/104536987/original.jpg"><u>Man - original</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/image/45685264.jpg"><u>Blue eyes</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/pam_r/image/45685242.jpg"><u>Blue eyes - original</u></a></p>

<p>You can find<a href="http://direct.wacom.com/stores/5/Parts_and_Accessories_C65.cfm"><u> replacement surface

sheets and pen nibs here</u></a> at the Wacom site.</p>

<p>@ Robert Johnston:</p>

<p><i>"Many of these or similar effects can be achieved in Photoshop and Lightroom."</i></p>

<p>Are you commenting on the artistic effects these plugins achieve? While you may be able to replicate some of

the more mundane results of these plugins (Topaz/Fractalius/etc), you would be hard-pressed to replicate the more

dramatic artistic effects. There are some techniques that will get you close by using the Anisotropic filter in

PS (Filter>Stylize>Diffuse>Anisotropic) along with other steps. But you won't be able to get the highly stylized

look of these plugins solely by using PS straight out of

the box.</p>

It's the result of a PS plugin called <a

href="http://www.topazlabs.com/topazlabs/03products/topaz_vivacity/"><u>Topaz

Vivacity</u></a>. You can see similar examples on the <a

href="http://www.topazlabs.com/topazlabs/03products/topaz_vivacity/gallery/40create_interesting_effects/index.html"><u>

"Create

Interesting Effects"</u></a> page.</p>

<p>Photoshop...</p>

<p><a href="http://photojojo.com/content/tutorials/create-your-own-panorama-planets/"><u>Create your own panorama worlds</u></a></p>

<p>A couple of ideas. My Pbase galleries are down for some reason so I've uploaded to my account here at

Photo.net. I hope that doesn't cause a problem:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8050234"><u>Monochrome version</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8050273"><u>Something different</u></a></p>

<p>For use on the web, you'll get the best results by using "Save for web". Go to File>Save>Save for web and devices. Choose Jpg and use the Quality slider to set file size. Along the top of the preview you'll see tabs that will show your original against the re-sized version to compare quality. I usually leave mine set to 2-up so I can preview the before/after.</p>

<p>Also, at the bottom of the Save for Web dialog box, you'll be able to see file size, quality setting, and approx download speed, which is an important variable to keep an eye on if you're sizing for a web site. Click on the small arrow top-right and you can change the download speed, and soft-proof other color settings.</p>

<p><i>"Can you tell me how you did all of the shots of the Photoshop panels? The layout to your answer looks like

a textbook. I want to be able to do that too. In particular how did you do the text and shadow effects."</i></p>

<p>Sure. I use a screen capture program called SnagIt, but you can use any screen grab/capture program. There are

many simple free programs out there. I capture the palettes, toolbox, etc., then to make things more understandable,

I put them all together and add text, shadows, highlights, call-outs, etc.</p>

<p>To add a shadow to your text (or anything else with transparency), just activate your text layer, then click

on the "Add a layer style" icon (fx) at the bottom of the layers palette and choose "Drop Shadow". Play around

with the settings to taste:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/104690614/original.jpg"></p>

<p>Here's a better view of that shoot for you, Ellis:</p>

<p><a href="

<p>I should have added that this can also be done through the channels palette by double-clicking on one of the

alpha channel thumbnails to pull up the channel options. You can also change the color and opacity of the quick

mask in this dialog box. I've changed mine to bright green. Yours should be at the default of 50% red:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/104665529/original.jpg"></p>

<p>When you are working in the channels palette, PS sees these selections as a "Quick mask". You need to change

your quick mask selection behavior if you want the selected area to be white. Double-click the quick mask icon in the

toolbox, then choose "Masked areas". Masked (selected) areas will now be white when working in the channels

palette.</p>

<p>Now when you use quick mask while working in the layers palette, areas you paint over will be masked (not

selected).</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/104664769/original.jpg"></p>

<p>You might want to keep an eye out for the new Adobe "Configurator" utility that will be available later this month. This looks very useful for customizing your working environment. Like a custom "office".</p>

<p>"Configurator makes it easy to snap together your own Photoshop panels (a.k.a. palettes). Think of Configurator as a box of Legos--an app that lets you drag and drop all the tools and menu items in Photoshop, call actions & scripts, and add widgets (images, videos, other SWFs, etc.)."</p>

<p><a href="http://www.russellbrown.com/Transfer/Configurator.mov"><u>Video demonstration of Adobe Configurator by John Nack</u></a></p>

<p><i>"9_Oh, you also get a colorblind print preview in the proof setup?! not sure how it work or why..but my

image turn strangely green?!"</i></p>

<p>This is to simulate how colorblind people will view your image. They have trouble differentiating red and

green. This can be a big problem when viewing maps, traffic signals, signs, LED's, etc. So viewing work under

PS's colorblind preview will help designers to better adjust the contrast/color for greater effectiveness and

safety.</p>

<p><i>"4_they remove the double gray background..i mean now you go from your desktop, to a gray, to a

black..never really get the 2 gray background?"</i></p>

<p>Yes, there are now only 3 options. "Maximized" mode is gone.</p>

<p>Keep posting your findings, Patrick. Very useful. Have fun!</p>

<p>Gorgeous! But a slight bit too much darkness on the bottom. Maybe try a more cinematic/panoramic crop.

Something like this:</p>

<p><img src="http://upload.pbase.com/image/104568460/original.jpg"></p>

<p>@ Jeffrey:</p>

<p>If the process you mention is what I think it is, the result is an LVT negative. There are companies that will

produce an LVT negative for you, but at a steep price. Here's one, who will do an 8 x 10 for $115:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.albumenworks.com/lvt_prices_working_photogs.htm"><u>LVT negative price list</u></a></p>

<p>For Ronald (and others who may find this thread later)...here are some more links.</p>

<p>Making digital negatives with the Epson 2200 printer and Pictorico OHP film:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.alternativephotography.com/articles/art056.html"><u>Digital Negatives: The Color Ratio

Method</u></a></p>

<p><a href="http://www.joelipkaphoto.com/make_platinum.htm"><u>Joe Lipka - Making Platinum Prints from Digital Negs

</u></a></p>

<p>Another technique you might want to try is POP paper (Printing Out Paper). You lay the negative on top of the

paper (contact printing), then expose using UV light (the sun, black light, etc), then develop. The paper and

instructions are available here:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.albumenworks.com/printing-out-paper.html"><u>Albumen Works POP paper</u></a></p>

<p>I agree with Patrick. I think, in general, you just need a slightly lighter touch on the burning and

saturation. The comps are very nice, you have a good eye. Here are my picks after a quick run through your

galleries:</p>

<p>Temple Church Bristol</p>

<p>Tynemouth Priory</p>

<p>Long Sands</p>

<p>Door to Your Soul - very nice, rich texture</p>

<p>Where did the bats go</p>

<p>Arnos vale - beautiful</p>

<p>Frame within a frame - I like it :-)</p>

<p>Set in stone</p>

<p>Enchanted tower - very nice comp. Maybe lighten up the top of the tower a little...or the sky surrounding it,

not sure but that area is too dark. The rest...nice.</p>

<p>Hope this helps :-)</p>

<p>I forgot to mention, since you like flora, you might want to check out Fairchild Gardens. It's near Coral

Gables and is a great place for the flora lover, filled with exotic and rare tropical species:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.fairchildgarden.org/index.cfm?page=home"><u>Fairchild Tropical Botanic Garden</u></a></p>

<p><i>"About the art deco buildings, do you think it's worth going to the preservation league's center on Ocean

Drive for info?"</i></p>

<p>Definitely, if you have time, that's your best bet. Let them know you're short on time and want to see the

highlights. In any case, have a great time...and show us the results when you get back!</p>