aron

Does anyone know the shutter lag time and approximately how fast

this unit will focus? I have owned a Canon D10 and I know this is

apples to oranges, but for the money, my Canon images didn't look

any better than much cheaper Nikons. The sutter lag and focus time

is my only concern. If anyone can help, let me know ( to calrify my

comment about the image quality of the 10 D, I am speaking very

specifically of the sharpness of the pictures. While they are very

good, I cant see at this point spending the extra $700. I am going

to wait until the full frames come down)

 

Thanks,

I tried the Canon 10D and decided to forgo digital until I am able

to afford a full frame ( just my opinion) My quesiton is on 645

format, what is the best most professional way to present clients

say commercial/product with their proofs. With my earlier digital I

would burn to CD ( pretty easy) and with weddings/35 mm so far, it

would be put in to a proof book. But I have no real experience with

Medium Format and presenting this film to commercial clients ( keep

in mind that this side of it is new to me)

I am hoping this is only for the import film. I am planning on making a large purchase of USA for wedding photos. & on B&H.... other than taking a long time to issue credits, I have had service so good that I felt compelled to write them a letter ( of course 99% of my contact is e mail and online when I call, I havent been as pleased)

Don't get me wrong, overall , I like the 10D. I have had trouble getting crisp images ( the same images that are easily obtained with my Elan), but I have had great images as well. The lack of consistency is a little dishartening for the price. I think my decision will be to stay with film as the wedding market still loves them, maximize my lenses weather I go Nikon or Canon and paitiently upgrade to the the next version of the D100 or 10D. I think the ultiate solution since I still do not have too much vested is to get a mix of lenses with the Nikon film system and a different mix of lenses with Canon and then give myself the choice later.

Responding to the investment in lenses. I was kind of embarrassed to say that I do not have a large investment. Only a 17 - 35 mm & a 28 - 105 that I believe I could recoup on ebay or through local friends using Canon.

I can do a film switch or digital at this time. I cannot do both. I would have to complete the change down the road. I'll keep all your thoughts in mind. Unfortuantely, I have to be careful with jobs, I can never be without. I might be dual format for a while.

 

Aron

But, I have always for some reason wanted to try Nikon. I just sent

back my 10D and am considering the switch to Nikon. For Film I am

currently using an Elan 7. How does it compare to the N80 in your

experiences. And, is there any word on a new Nikon Digital SLR that

would be in the range price/performance with the 10D. I like Nikons

crystal clear images for digital. Let me know.

You guys all kick ass. Am I allowed to say that? Anyway,neutral density filters sound like a good idea. I am also contemplating making diffusion panels out of balistic nylon. I've found this is identical to the covers on my soft boxes and with a light pvc frame they will be portable and affordable.

Ansering Hal,Bob,etc

 

now that Bob brings up the point of the higher shutter speeds, I usually do play with different shutter speeds. I could be wrong, but I swear this softens the light due to letting the light in for less time. I could be wrong, but when I use any slower speeds, its too hot. I know that I should control this with aperture, but some times I like to have very little depth of field. As I mentioned earlier, it is very hot even with low wattage strobes. I think I will need a bigger room to help diffuse my light. A real learning experience you guys have been. I guess when I can i'll get the 1DS which will sync at higher speeds. Hah, I can't afford that. I'm going to downgrade my status from semi pro,

Sutter lag is not noticable, I thought the focus speed was as good as an Elan, but I purchased a new Elan 7 this week ( after 6 months with no film) and to me the Elan does track and focus faster, but the point is I had to really put them side by side to notice so there isn't much difference in my mind. As for going to sleep, I've got in the habit of tapping the sutter release a couple of seconds prior to composing my shot. If you absoultely need to be able to cath shots at a moments notice ( perhaps at a media event or wedding reception) then you might want to set the camera to never turn off and keep and extra battery or two.

Bob,

 

Thats the best response I've heard. I shoot a lot around 1/250 because my lights are just so hot. Maybe thats my problem but I am only using 160 watt seconds and I still have to shoot at these high shutter speeds to be able to use a large enough aperture to get good background blur. Anyway, I mailed it back to B&H today. I was so mad I was considering Nikon but decided that the 10D is currently the best thing for the money and I love Canon. Imagine how mad I was. I have always used Canon from point & shoot to the rebel 2000 then the elan and now the 10 D. Well anyway. What should I do on the lights to get a slower shutter speed. They are very bright at only 160 ws . More diffusion?

Heres my response to the assumption of sync voltage. First, everything I've read leads me to believe that the sync voltage that the Canon can handle is very little. I had it hooked through the cameras pc socket when it originally happened. The only other assumption I could make was that the polarity was wrong. I tried a Wein Safe sync and a wireless sytem and the problem would start up after a few flashes. This leads me to believe that it did permanent damage. One of the things I have been reading is that it can cause damage to the shutter's. The LCD screen itself is fine, it just happens to display the deffect which I believe could be the shutters not opening and closing correctly . When I unhook the sync , the lcd again shows good pic's, but I believe that obviously I have done permanent damage or it would not return with the wirless slaves.

The first day I had my 10 D I hooked it up to the studio lights just

as with my Minolta Dimage 7. After a few shots, the bottom 3rd of

the lcd screen turned balck and faded in to the picture. I know this

most certainly was because of the sync voltage. Is there an easy fix

for this or do I need to go ahead and send back?

 

Thanks

I love my EO5 error message. It gives me that warm feeling all over. I echo Alans comments except I'll beat his offer and give you $1000.50 for taking those defective pieces of crap off your hands.

Forgive me for not knowing all the technical terms, but I have the same problem. When I use my studio flashes alone with a sync cable, they are fine. When I use my 420 ex to fire them, the pic is very dark. Go and fire your camera in to the mirror. You might notice the same thing ( a dark picture) then turn and face away from the mirror and your picture is again fine. I think the flash in the mirror or in your case the slave flash is somehow causing the the metering to go arry ( perhaps as previously mentioned because of e ttl)