wuyeah

<p>Hello, i am using a used D700 FX. </p>

Sorry, yes the 18mm is not over lapping. Only compare up to 24mm. So in same range quality is equal? Even with light

fall off open and distortion in consideration? 18-35 has about 10cm min. Focus range.

Hello guys,

 

I have been out of camera world for a long time so I don't know which to choose anymore...

I don't shoot portrait often and have a 50f/1.8 .i know I need something wider that is why these two and price range is in budget. At

overlap range 18mm, 24mm, 28mm, 35mm which is better choice? I personally care the 35mm range the most. I shoot street using 28/35

most of the time. VR is not whole lot concern for me in this range but it sure is good to have.

 

I read a lot of review everyone is so good I don't know how to choose.

 

Thanks,

 

W.

Hello, I have an old Nikon Lens marked: Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 1:1.4 f=50mm

and I just notice there is a slight rattle sound when i shake it. Should I repair/Service the lens or it is a normal for old lenses? Thanks.

<p>Thanks Edward. As I read your loading procedure, I am pretty confident it is not the loading issue :( It is always at mid roll that is for sure. It has happen more than 3 times. It happen usually after I pressed the shutter and release and the lens and back got jam and do not release. Shutter lost function. It frustrates me cuz now I am afraid to use it on a trip or project.</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I just came back from Thailand last night. This trip I had 503CW which it jammed during shooting on the 5th shot. This is not the first time jamming occur. I did sent it to manufacture one time for inspection and result was normal. Jamming seems happen when film is in the film back. no tube or other device were attached except lens and film back. The 503CW is extremely simple. I can't seems to find my own operation error might have cause jam. Does anyone know number of tips need to watch out before operate a Hasselblad V?</p>

<p>Thanks Dave. I'll give a shot this weekend at camp site :D</p>

<p>The image above might be a little extreme, but how about something more like this?<br>

<img src="http://markunrau.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/night_sky9030_thumb.jpg" alt="" width="630" height="420" /></p>

<p><strong>ISO: </strong>100? 400? 800? Both film and digital will suffer the same noise issue.<strong><br /></strong><br>

<strong>Aperture:</strong> Should Aperture be wide or small? and why?<br>

<strong>Shutter Speed:</strong> I know it should be long shutter but how long? 3min+?<br>

ISO X Aperture X Shutter<br>

If I know the method to meter and nail one of the variant down, pretty much the other two can be adjusted accordingly.</p>

<p>No Michael, it is not my image. It is just an example what I would like to achieve.<br>

If I were at cloudless outdoor, sky always seems to be the same color most of time. Deep blue/black with bright stars.<br>

Don't know how exactly to meter in such extreme situation. Since the sky color will be constant, I thought there should have a good math formula to take such shots.<br>

I thought digital group will be interested too since it might be slight easier than expose on film. Fundamental shouldn't differ too much.</p>

<p>Hello Guys,<br>

I am using F3 and would like to try to achieve a night sky star shot. What film should I use, what aperture and shutter setup is most ideal? How do you meter the light to get proper setting?<br>

All I know is I'll need a sturdy tripod, telephoto lens is ideal. I should prob use cable shutter with mirror lock up to avoid minor shake. <br>

Although I am shooting film, digital knowledge are welcome too.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.utahskies.org/image_library/deepsky/messier/m045/M45_2_Sky_6x4_150dpi_edlunt.jpg" alt="" width="900" height="606" /></p>

<p>It does sounded wrong but it is very true...choose between camera REALLY is like picking a girl friend. You do need to touch them to know know your preference.</p>

<p>Do you always choose girlfriend base on what people are talking about? Have you ever had a feeling "sure, she does have few flaws but I lover her anyway." Other people's preference really is not important to you.</p>

<p>Like relationship with a woman. Sometimes you will want to buy her some expansive accessories or you love her so much that you want to buy her a bigger house, better cars...etc. Yes, there are times in life you might have a little "flint" with someone else...but keep both relationship on will benefit you NOTHING but cost you everything.</p>

<p>Remember, it is now a relationship. Not a marriage. Divorce always cost more than breaking up with a girl friend. If you truly do found yourself liking Nikon better, eventually you will think yellow is better than red. That is only a personal opinion, not a true statement.</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Does anyone know how this shot was achieved? For this shot I will need a black backdrop but, What kind of light, lighting equipment and lighting setup does it need? The light is very dramatic.<br>

Before I ask, I have done some thinking but not confident. Obviously the light source is from the right and right only. Were there flash used? If so how come behind the jawbone area wasn't light up? I think suspect it is a strong light in the dark with a cone in the front to make a focused directional light. On her face with no flash but I really don't have enough experience to call the shot.<br>

I am trying to shoot a woman's portrait like this one, can you help me to figure out? Thanks</p>

<p><img src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_9eBZq26zw50/Srus6VGQZMI/AAAAAAAAB6w/AqLmDc-og80/s400/chanel+givaway310x310.jpg" alt="" width="310" height="310" /></p>

<p>Thank you all for helping me to answer this question. I felt I've never learn so much. I was shooting a chrome film. The subject was actually a very dark African American. The subject's skin tone wasn't even register in my mind until Peter mention it to me just now. Thank Jose for your picture sample, it really helps me a lot. I guess in this case, I will finish shooting the roll of the film with the same matter, one stop under, and ask the local developer to push a bit so the whole roll will get a uniformed treatment. How much should I tell local shop to push? If I tell the whole story would they know exactly what to do?</p>

<p>Hello guys,<br>

I am still shooting film so it is hard for me to use digital camera and test for a result right the way. Can someone help me shooting a sample of comparison between 5.6/30 compare with 5.6/60 or any combo you like with a stop under.<br>

Well....i was shooting street today and shot a friendly stranger. After the shoot, I found out my setting was one stop under. It is the classic case that there is no way to do it over. I feel kinda bad and it bug me whole afternoon. Of course I keep telling myself there are other elements that can go wrong too, like hand shake, stuff that is not sharp....etc. I should not keep thinking about it.<br>

But I am still curious about how much difference can one stop under make. Is one stop under an easy fix in photoshop?</p>

I am still hardcore film fans but a lot of you are not. There is no need to fuzz about quality control over camera lens. You buy it, go home test it right the way, if no good, return & exchange. It is not like shooting film that you have to finished a roll, wasting money develope....blablabla

 

You can only blame yourself by try to get a good deal from a store that are not 100% behind their products they sell.

Leica. If I hv more money they might be my first choice.

I am one of those hardcore film fella. I just don't like to work with digital image unless i must for work.

I have this lens and i'll say its not too silly for what it is. Of course, i got it with regular retail price. This lens prob never will leave me. Here is my reason why:

 

45mm P is the only old style lens that is full metal body from head to toe. The package included with original Nikon matching silver filter and lens hood which was never offered for AiS lens. It has chip to work with modern body which is a plus although i never try it. The lenses have very special multi-coating treatment, although it has no ED, it produces noticable saturate color. The saturation capability works even better to shoot B&W images, it will make image more contrasty. Close to Leica lens color.

 

This lens sure its first time Nikon ever did such thing, really its one of the kind. The lens got introduced at a wrong time when consumer are mainly after auto equipment. I have no doubt Nikon will not going to make this kinda lens again. It had a short run and short production, the price gone up, really not suprised me at all but "silly" in my honest opinion, definately not. I enjoy the result came out from this lens.

 

p.s. i do hv one complain, 45mm P is a bit too small. It is smaller than early 50mm f1.8 AiS. The unique bezel on Aperture and focus ring its kinda hard to use if you are too used to old AiS lenses. Does need time to get comfortable using it, so you won't accidentally change aperture ring when you wanna focus. After learning period, it is all sweet. Its a keeper.

How Necessary is VR? The question really should be, what kinda of photography are you shooting? To me, VR is good to have in some situations but really is not a MUST HAVE. Lets talk about professional.

 

If you are a professional landscape, product photographer, why would you need a VR when majority of shots are pre-thought out and all your shots are on a tripod because you are selling it and VR does provide the same assurance as tripod would. I have almost never see a professional product, landscape photographer shot their picture hand held. When they do, they have shutter setting is fast enough not to suffer hand shake.

 

Studio portrait 99% of time is still done on tripod. High Fashion studio pictures are also done with medium format digital back. Medium format does not have IS or VR and those pictures are on Vogue, GQ magazine. Are those not acceptable to you? Occasionally High Fashion photographer likes to have some freedom shooting handheld, but they all have flash setting usuall 3 flash, they do not need VR.

 

Professional photographers who do need VR are sports photographer like Basketball, boxing, event, non studio wedding (i called those event photographer), your swim suit VHM photographer, war photographer, news journey photographer who almost handheld shooting all their life. Even some sports photographer you see at US open, NAAS car photographer all hv their big lens on tripod they don't need VR.

 

Depends what you shoot and where what to shoot decide if the VR is necessary or not. I found hobby photographer want or feel the need to have VR more so than professional photographer. Most due to the fact, they don't know what they are going to shoot. VR only target on certain type of professional photographer, to many pro, VR is not necessary at all.

Hello, I have a late version of Rollleiflex 2.8F White face. On the crank, it has this extra black retangular section pop

up. I've also see there is a version that is called 12/24. From the picture, seems like the 12/24 version has a dial on

the retangular pop up section next to film counter marked 12/24.

 

What does that dial do, what does it mean? Can I add 12/24 on to my Rolleiflex 2.8F? Does that mean Rolleiflex

2.8F white face has 3 different versions?

I think this project definately need to use wide angle lens since wheele usually are fairly big. To help you answer my question better my lens choices are: 24mm f2.8 AiS, 28mm f2 AiS, 35mm f1.4 AiS and 17-35mm AF-S. I am most comfortable with my F & F3HP, so as equipment goes, i'll prob go for one maual body with one prime.

From Nikon I have F, F photomic, F3 and F5

Hello, summer is here, theme parks are open every where. Those theme parks are just exciting would you say?

I want and try to shoot the big wheele in theme park that seems like using slow shutter and the lights just slowly

forming a big circle plate. How do you do that without making it over exposed? Can it be done with ISO 100? How to

know the proper meter method for the situation? Do I need to wait til the sky is completely black? Obviously a shot

like such need a tripod. I would like to know more before I give it a try, cuz I am shooting film so I try to get less

failure shots. Thanks.

"The things we own, end up owning us" -- Tyler Durden

Seriously we don't need our opinion on this. Honestly.

 

I'll say if you have the money, buy it; you don't have the money, don't buy it.

If you do have the money, why do you buy D300 recently and not D3?

If you bought your D300 recently; why do you want to buy another camera so soon?

 

What is the point telling you not to buy it when you really want to buy it to a degree you want to post it?

Even if you don't have the money and you want it, you will swipe your card, borrow money to get it.

 

The end, do you need to buy it. do you have the money to buy it. how much do you want it.