tibu
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Posts posted by tibu
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Waw, bad experience you had Michael. I hope you did not get hurt to much. It's a shame. Was it the boyfriend of a woman you were shooting? Did you have the time to explain what you were doing ?
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Thanks Michael. I will keep shooting, no problem.<p>
I am a member of the streetphotography forum on yahoo.
One member made these comments about my blog :<p>
**<p>
- What do I think of someone stealing pictures of women behind their back? Get help!<p>
- Two rules from photojournalism apply here:
1. Never steal a picture.
2. Leave people with their dignity.<p>
- Stealing is stealing and stealing a picture means taking a shot of a person without their knowledge. Leaving people with their dignity intact means not shooting someone in a compromising position or situation where they may appear undignified.
Anyone with a camera can follow women on the street to shoot them behind their back but it takes a real man to meet a woman face to face and ask permission to walk behind her for the purpose of taking shots of her legs.<p>**<p>
Of course no one on the forum agreed with her and there have been a lot of reactions about her comments.<p>
What do you think ?
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Get arrested ??? why should I ? :)
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Thanks a lot Peter and Chris.
Indeed Siro's work can remind of some Witkin's pictures but I think Siro Anton has its own style.
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Andrea : Ahhh yes ! I know his work. I remember his "Politcs" and "Repression" series. Excellent. The "WHORE OF BABYLON" and "BALLET FIGURE" series are impressive. I like them a lot. Thanks for the link.
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Rolf, Andrew, Gabriele : indeed, this is not really a "street" obsession but truly women walking in the streets who catch my eye.
Streetobsession was just a fine title for me because it is short.
Andrea, I understand what you mean. This blog is something like a different expression of my other photographic vision. That's why it will only be dedicated to this subject : how I see women in the streets. I can understand it can be boring for some people. I plan to make an exhibition around this when I will have enough pictures to make a coherent selection.
Andrew, no I do not use any flash at all. Discretion ! ;)
Thanks all for your comments.
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Greetings all,
I started a little blog -> http://streetobsession.blogspot.com/
<p>
what do you think ?
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Hi Jamie. I like your pictures. The first 5 are great. i think my favorites are #13 and #14. Nice and simple web sire. Well done.
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Absolutely right. No FH-3 in the box. Only the SA-21 and MA-21
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Sure I will Jack. No problem.
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yes 5400dpi seems interesting but the most important feature I see with the minolta is the 24.6 mm x 36.7 mm scan area.
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Well, it's a shame I didn't know about this problem before ... I would certainly not have bought the Nikon LS50. The Minolta 5400 seems a better choise.
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Ok, thanks for all your answer. I will try to find the FH-3 film holder. BTW, does anyone noticed the same problem with Minolta or Canon scanner ?
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Hi all,
As a photographer I pay a lot of attention to the frame. I often put
characters or objets very close to the border of the frame. I usually
don't re-frame my photos. The framing during the shot is very
important for me and must be respected during the scan process.
I own a Nikon coolscan V for about a month. I only scan B&W negatives.
I was very surprised and irritated to see that the scanner does not
respect the 24x36 size of the film.
1,5 mm at the top and the bottom of the frame is purely MISSING ! I
get a 21x36 ! ... bye-bye the cool informations at the border of the
frame. The Nikon Coolscan V does not scan at full frame size !
Is there a special film mount to correct this problem ??
The scanner software doesn't change anything ... Vuescan or NikonScan
4.0.
I suspect it is a mechanical problem of film scanner.
I just can't understand why 10% of the film is missing ... this is
just incredible and impossible to work with it.
If there is no solution ... then I will throw away the LS50 and buy a
simple flatbed scanner like the Epson 4870. I will then be sure to
have my all frame.
A little picture to help you undrestand the problem.
Thanks for your help.
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Try the Epson 2100 with proper Inks and Papers :
<b>
<a href=http://www.epson.co.uk/product/printers/photo/styphoto2100/>Epson 2100 + </a>
<a href=http://www.marrutt.com/2100-conink-photo.php>Lyson ink system + </a>
<a href=http://www.moabpaper.com/index.htm>Moab papers </a> or
<a href=http://www.inkjetmall.com/store/paper/hahnemuhle-paper.html#rag188>Hahnemuhle papers</a></b>
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It seemed to me that it was a "Leica Photography Forum" ...
BTW, Natasha Gudermane is one of the best creative photographer I've ever seen.
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The big difference is about the Dmax values.
4.2 for the Coolscan V / 4.1 for the Coolscan 4000 / 4.8 for the Coolscan 5000. The higher the better. This value is important when scanning dark area. If the value is too weak then the scanner won't be able to "see" the slight differences in the dark zones. As a result you will have an overcast image in the shades. This is very important especially when scanning slide films.
I am also about to buy a Nikon scanner. I mostly do B&W and what I would like to know if a value of 4.2 in Dmax is enough for B&W 35mm films.
Hope someone can help.
Thanks.
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Hi all,
I am quite new in developing films and have read many comments about
Tri X and TMax developing time using ID 11.
I have noticed they usually are shorter than mine.
At the begining, I was considering the official dev time : 11'00 for
TriX and 10'00 for TMax 400 at EI 400 and the result was not enough
contrasted for me.
Now I have good results with ID 11 (1+1) at 20°C (68°F) :
Tri X : EI 200 -> 12'00 / EI 400 -> 13'00
TMax 400 : EI 200 -> 11'30 / EI 400 -> 12'30
What do you think of these dev times ? it's about 2'00 more than the
officials.
Do I mistaken or is it a common thing that official dev. time are
shorter than they should be ?
Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.
(by the way, the metering system of my Nikon FM2 works fine)
Walking girls in the street
in Street & Documentary
Posted