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tibu

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Posts posted by tibu

  1. Thanks Michael. I will keep shooting, no problem.<p>

    I am a member of the streetphotography forum on yahoo.

    One member made these comments about my blog :<p>

    **<p>

    - What do I think of someone stealing pictures of women behind their back? Get help!<p>

    - Two rules from photojournalism apply here:

    1. Never steal a picture.

    2. Leave people with their dignity.<p>

    - Stealing is stealing and stealing a picture means taking a shot of a person without their knowledge. Leaving people with their dignity intact means not shooting someone in a compromising position or situation where they may appear undignified.

    Anyone with a camera can follow women on the street to shoot them behind their back but it takes a real man to meet a woman face to face and ask permission to walk behind her for the purpose of taking shots of her legs.<p>**<p>

    Of course no one on the forum agreed with her and there have been a lot of reactions about her comments.<p>

    What do you think ?

  2. Rolf, Andrew, Gabriele : indeed, this is not really a "street" obsession but truly women walking in the streets who catch my eye.

    Streetobsession was just a fine title for me because it is short.

     

    Andrea, I understand what you mean. This blog is something like a different expression of my other photographic vision. That's why it will only be dedicated to this subject : how I see women in the streets. I can understand it can be boring for some people. I plan to make an exhibition around this when I will have enough pictures to make a coherent selection.

     

    Andrew, no I do not use any flash at all. Discretion ! ;)

     

    Thanks all for your comments.

  3. Hi all,

     

    As a photographer I pay a lot of attention to the frame. I often put

    characters or objets very close to the border of the frame. I usually

    don't re-frame my photos. The framing during the shot is very

    important for me and must be respected during the scan process.

     

    I own a Nikon coolscan V for about a month. I only scan B&W negatives.

    I was very surprised and irritated to see that the scanner does not

    respect the 24x36 size of the film.

    1,5 mm at the top and the bottom of the frame is purely MISSING ! I

    get a 21x36 ! ... bye-bye the cool informations at the border of the

    frame. The Nikon Coolscan V does not scan at full frame size !

     

    Is there a special film mount to correct this problem ??

    The scanner software doesn't change anything ... Vuescan or NikonScan

    4.0.

    I suspect it is a mechanical problem of film scanner.

    I just can't understand why 10% of the film is missing ... this is

    just incredible and impossible to work with it.

     

    If there is no solution ... then I will throw away the LS50 and buy a

    simple flatbed scanner like the Epson 4870. I will then be sure to

    have my all frame.

     

    A little picture to help you undrestand the problem.

     

    Thanks for your help.

  4. Try the Epson 2100 with proper Inks and Papers :

    <b>

    <a href=http://www.epson.co.uk/product/printers/photo/styphoto2100/>Epson 2100 + </a>

    <a href=http://www.marrutt.com/2100-conink-photo.php>Lyson ink system + </a>

    <a href=http://www.moabpaper.com/index.htm>Moab papers </a> or

    <a href=http://www.inkjetmall.com/store/paper/hahnemuhle-paper.html#rag188>Hahnemuhle papers</a></b>

  5. The big difference is about the Dmax values.

     

    4.2 for the Coolscan V / 4.1 for the Coolscan 4000 / 4.8 for the Coolscan 5000. The higher the better. This value is important when scanning dark area. If the value is too weak then the scanner won't be able to "see" the slight differences in the dark zones. As a result you will have an overcast image in the shades. This is very important especially when scanning slide films.

     

    I am also about to buy a Nikon scanner. I mostly do B&W and what I would like to know if a value of 4.2 in Dmax is enough for B&W 35mm films.

     

    Hope someone can help.

    Thanks.

  6. Hi all,

     

    I am quite new in developing films and have read many comments about

    Tri X and TMax developing time using ID 11.

    I have noticed they usually are shorter than mine.

    At the begining, I was considering the official dev time : 11'00 for

    TriX and 10'00 for TMax 400 at EI 400 and the result was not enough

    contrasted for me.

     

    Now I have good results with ID 11 (1+1) at 20°C (68°F) :

    Tri X : EI 200 -> 12'00 / EI 400 -> 13'00

    TMax 400 : EI 200 -> 11'30 / EI 400 -> 12'30

     

    What do you think of these dev times ? it's about 2'00 more than the

    officials.

     

    Do I mistaken or is it a common thing that official dev. time are

    shorter than they should be ?

     

    Thanks in advance for your comments and advice.

    (by the way, the metering system of my Nikon FM2 works fine)

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