eddie y.

I would love to see that lens on a APS sized sensor, with a shutter lag at least as fast as a Hexar RF, all with the same body size dimensions.

 

That sounds like a digital camera I would consider buying.

I used to use a Canon CP200 Dye sub with a Canon G2 camera. I have since sold both items. I generally liked the CP200, but the drawbacks were the following:

 

1. Expensive paper and print cartridges. I found the cost per 4x6 print was more expensive than going to a photo lab.

 

2. Though the print quality was very good and very smooth (no dithering), the actual sharpness of the prints weren't great. Perhaps this is just a characteristic of a dye-sub printer.

 

 

TO answer your questions, you can crop the picture from the LCD panel on your digital camera before you print out each photo. personally, i would save the money and use it towards a Epson 2200.

The above suggestions are fine. But if you are a cheapo like me, do the following. Buy an 8-pack of 675 hearing aid batteries for $6.99 at Radioshack. You can buy a #9 O-ring at Home Depot for a few cents or a pack of plastic grommets at Radioshack for $1.99. Cut the grommet that fits the 675 battery in half (I think it's the 1/2" one). You can use either the half grommet or the O-ring to encase your 675 battery. Each battery lasts only a few months, but they are cheap. You re-use the grommet or o-ring when you need a new battery.

Freezer:

B&W: XP2, TCN400, Delta3200

Color: NPZ, Fujipress800, Supra 100, Velvia

 

 

Fridge: few rolls of exposed film that I haven't developed yet, Pabst Blue Ribbon, Rolling Rock, Elephant Danish beer.

You'll get a lot of opinions about this I'm sure. I went through the same thing, I didn't want a bag that looks like a camera bag especially one with valuable Leica gear.

 

I decided on the Crumpler bag (forget which size). It doesn't look like a camera bag, more like a hipster messenger bag. Very well padded, with detachable dividers. Comes in different colors as well.

CD's are definitely more convenient (smaller, faster) and the audio is digital. Similar to digital photography.

 

Vinyl is still preferred by many enthusiasts/professionals for the un-reproducable sounds and tones. Unfortunately, not many people use vinyl anymore, let alone have record players. I hope FILM never goes that way.

Thanks Wally,

 

But I don't have a darkroom (neither the space or the tools). So I was wondering what my alternatives to getting a contact sheet. I was just curious what other photographers do when they develop their own film but don't have a darkroom to print - do they have a lab run a contact sheet for them (but they might as well have the lab develop the film too, no?)....or do they have some other means for proof viewing (i.e. scanning the negs and viewing them that way)???

I'm about to start developing my own B&W film (since it's relatively

simple and doesn't require a darkroom - I'll use a changing bag).

But once I develop the film, how do I make a contact sheet or

accurately view the images on film? It sounds like I have to take it

to a lab to have a contact sheet made. If that's the case, wouldn't

it be easier to just have the lab develop the film and make the

contact sheet at the same time?

 

I was thinking to scan the negs and view them on the screen. Is it

possible to print out a contact sheet on an inkjet printer? I've had

moderate success making prints using my inkjet printer. But scanning

all 36 negs sounds like a time-consuming task.

 

Any suggestions?

I currently use a Hexar RF with a 35/2 Summicron ASPH. I have come

across a good deal on a Hexar AF. I love the 35 focal length, and

can't see using anything else for a while.

 

My question is, how much of a difference is there between the Hexar

RF (w/ 35mm cron) and a Hexar AF?

 

Since I'm going to stick with only the 35mm length for a while, would

I be better served just using a Hexar AF?

 

Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions. If I sound nuts, you

can tell me that too.

 

By the way, my Hexar RF got bumped the other day and is not out of

vertical alignment. Surprisingly, I find it easier to focus with the

slight vertical misalignment.

I have a Hexar RF. I'm thinking of picking up a CV 75mm/2.5 lens.

I've read about difficulty in focusing anything over a 50mm on a

lower mag vf such as the Hexar's .60, or a .58 M6.

 

Does anyone have a 75mm lens on a .58 M6 or a Hexar RF? Do you have

focusing problems?

So let me see if I got this.

 

Certain guides say to dilute the developer 1:4 with water (for example). This means you pour 1 part of the powder in the pint-size container, and 4 parts water in the same pint-size container, and mix it. This is what you use to develop your negs, correct?

 

If they say the ratio of developer to water is 1:1, then you just fill half the pint container with powder (or syrup) and the other half with water, correct?

I'm thinking of starting to develop my own B&W film. I don't have

any previous darkroom/developing experience. My question is:

 

With these film developers...do you mix them up first (ie. mix the

powder and water in a gallon bucket), and then store them in smaller

pint-size containers so they keep longer? When you mix the powder

with water, do you add the recommended ratio of water(1:1, 1:4,

etc.) ??? How long does the mixed diluted developer last in those

pint-size containers? approx 6 months?

 

I would assume the same would apply for liquid concentrate developer

as well, like DD-X, right? If that's the case, what are the

advantages of using a liquid concentrate developer, if you have to

mix them with water (1:4) and pour it in smaller pintsize containers

for storage anyway ???

I know AandI has black/white film mailers fro about $20 (film

development + 4x6 prints, no contact sheets avail).

 

Anyone know any other labs that have mailers for B&W film (either

with proofs or contact sheets). Please no responses about developing

myself as my circumstance does not allow it.

After a lot of restraint and patience, I was able to find a killer

deal on a MINT 35/2 Summicron ASPH. Bought it from a guy in my area

(NYC) for about $750 who didn't want to bother with auction fees and

dodgy buyers. It looks like it was never used, includes caps, hood,

filter. I don't know what the market value for this is, but from the

prices on auction sites, I think I got a good deal.

 

I'm going out today and taking some pics! And tomorrow, and the day

after, .....

 

I read a lot of comments stating to start with just 1 lens until you

become familiar with it for a few months. Thanks for all the advice

on this board. I look forward to contributing more (though the little

I know) since I recently got my Hexar RF (thanks Skip) and my 35 cron.

 

Cheers.