tim obrien

<p>Sorry for the intrusion. Perhaps a moderator could remove the last two postings?</p>

<p>tim in san jose</p>

<p>Dear Matthew Rubarsky,<br /> You seem to know a lot about classic cameras. What do you know about Nikon point and shoots?</p>

<p>You know we know where you like to hang out. Every post you make here we (not just me) will bird dog you. Please return the camera. Just do it. I am not kidding. I will be in Baltimore in October for a business trip. I will visit your friend and find out where you are. Or just embarrass you.</p>

<p>It's beyond annoyance now. It has been close to three months now. Just return the camera.</p>

<p>tim in san jose</p>

<p><strong>"Why has no one here stated that the brown tint to the film after developing is the STAINING ACTION OF PYRO DEVELOPERS, and its one of the biggest reasons its even used???"</strong><br>

Because we assume a certain level of competence if you are participating in a certain type of discussion on the board. If you don't know this is a Pyro type developer, why would you care?</p>

<p>And why are you resurrecting a thread from 6 years ago? *L*<br>

tim in san jose</p>

<p> </p>

So if I order the 2x3 sheet film from Freestyle Ultra 100 or 200 it will be Foma 100 and 200?

I have tried the 200 in 135, seems OK to me.

tim in san jose

If I remember correctly, the 1A is not a range finder like my II but a zone focus camera like my Zeiss Ikon Nettar 2 1/4s. Great photos can be taken with this type of camera but it looks like your focus is off. Might be a dirty lens, might be a loose element? Perhaps your DOF is just too small for what you are looking for.

I would start by increasing your development by 50% and see if it brings out that snap you are looking for. Then check your camera out or use another one. Eliminate variables.

tim in san jose

Everyone seems to be avoiding the dsalient point in this conversation. The Yashica TLR is a great camera, usually has very nice lens... but...

Lack of contrast is an issue unless you have a good lens hood for this beasty. Either get a good lens hood for it, or shoot PanF. The contrast on this film is a bit tough to control, it's a nice balance for a camera that might be lacking in the contrast department. And develop your own, as advised above. Control is the name of the game in improving your photography.

Other films that work well would be Tri-X shot at rated speed (400)or FujiPan 1600 developed in Diafine.

Of course, if you do get a nice lens hood for it, shoot 100 or 125 speed film and revel in the superb tonality you should be able to pull out of your TLR.

tim in san jose

Three ways I process Efke25.

Sheet film is done in PyrocatHD in a rotary processor, loverly stuff. Normal roll film is done in W2D2+, amazing tonality and grain. High contrast architectural stuff is done in Rodinal 1+200 stand development. Startling graphic detail and tone. I have used my homebrewed 777 on it for an old fashioned look but have not tamed that beast yet.

That said, if you don't blow out the highlights, most developers will work, I wouldn't use something like straight D76 or Diafine on it though.

tim in san jose

Retina IIa with the 47mm Ektar lens. Easy to use rangefinder and sharp as a tack. It's the only 35mm I take with me anymore and slips easily into any pocket. Solid cast metal, will take a bit of abuse.

tim in san jose

Well, first off, a MF camera is at it's simplist level, a light tight box with a lens on one end and film at the other. A shutter lives somewhere in between. Anyone with a well balanced knowledge of photographic methods in any format should be able to adjust and figure out a shutter speed, aperture combination to make a professional photograph if they have the knowledge and talent in any other format. That holds for 35mm,6x6, to 4x5, etc. Learn the mechanics of loading and unloading film in the 120 format and go shoot some images. Of course, if your level of professionalism relies upon the knowlege built into your superduper all automatic latest german/japanese gizmo laden camera, you won't have a chance in any format.

That said, the best, for the money, 2 1/4 square equipment comes with a "Mamiya" on the front along with a C220 or a C330 designation. Some of the earlier Mamiya TLRs are just as good, just not as dependable because of age. If you are shooting table top, get a paramender device to allow you to focus and compose, then move the camera up into the exact shooting position. Of course, Hasseys and the like don't have that same disadvantage, but at quite a cost difference.

best of luck,

tim in san jose

I would first test it with another lens. The one you have may have been dropped, may have had the lens shimmed incorrectly when serviced. If the taking lens and the viewing lens are not focused to the same spot, miss focusing can occur.

Assuming the different lens exhibits the same phenominum, I would make sure the hold down bail is holding the lensboard in the correct secured space. I have never seen it on an 80mm lens, but I have on a 180mm. The weight of the lens made the whole lens assembly just a bit loose.

Finally do the pull the screen method and add (or subtract) shims. More an issue on the C33 and C330s as those screens are meant to be swapped, but someone could have been messing with your permanent C220 viewing screen. Or replaced it altogether with an inappropriate one.

tim in san jose

After recently evaluating the photos taken with different members of my MF family (I love them all), I decided to expand the C220 System I now own. Frankly (who ever that is), I am getting bored with only the 65mm lens I have for it. Not that it takes bad photos, only photographers take bad photos. It is actually a very fine medium WA lens, good for most of the landscape shooting I do (when I am not shooting with my LF stuff). So anyhow, I have recently bought a 180mm and an 80mm lens for my baby, irregular spacing of frames and all. You get use to it. Probably one frame every 3 or 4 rolls is edge lapped with the next frame over. Not worth sending it in for repairs.

So have fun with your new C330 Coffee grinder. It will take you a long way down the 6x6 road and from 6 inches, nobody will know yor photos weren't taken with a Swedish camera that cost 4 times as much (at least).

tim in san jose

Clear to me.... You need a 2x3 Speed Graphic with a 101 Ektar lens to start. You can get various film backs including roll 6x6, 6x9, and sheet 2 1/4 x 3 1/4. Want a portrait lens for it? Ektar 127 or 152. Or mix and match. I know a 135 Tessar is tack sharp and usually pretty cheap.

Want to do pinhole? Mount a balnk lensboard and a piece of brass.

And they are all dirt cheep.

Have fun, I do.

tim in san jose

I take the spent 135 cartridge and pull the other end off. I squeeze the cartridge into a squished "C" shape and put it onto the top of the reel before putting the canister top on. No thunk.

tim in san jose

I am impressed by the quality of shots you got. My results with mid 60's film has been less than stellar. Way way too much fogging, a condition you seemed to have avoided. Perhaps this is last of the run (1978 or so) film?

As far as bringing back film packs, I find the film handling to be onerous. The film is very thin, hard to handle without creases, and just enough off sized that it doesn't fit in standard negative development racks. Picky me.

Anyhow congrats on a job well done.

tim in san jose

Donald,

Get ye back to APUG where you belong. Digital manipulation of classic camera photos?

I don't think so. Kinda violates the whole concept especially with terms like 'digital work flow' being banded about. Somehow unsharpening anything from my 1926 Z-I Trona just ain't never gonna happen.

yer friend tim in san jose

"Since founding 1951, all information of the photograph equipment and material whose progress is considerable as a 綜 combination information magazine of the image equipment and material, it conveyed the camera almanac, to the reader accurately and quickly. It added also the digital camera, made the easy to see comprehensive image magazine. You measure the silver salt camera, the lens, the photo accessory and the digital camera and the peripheral device and the being completed dividing, you publish everything of the image equipment and material which presently is marketed including the introduction of the new product which is thorough, for purchasing the actual equipment and material in order to be useful as a catalog merit of the product, using chart group and the photograph which standardized efficiency, use and price etc. mainly, to be understood you explain easily."

See, obvious to the most casual observer

tim in san jose

Jeff,

Another solution is to find slide in spring backs that take 3x4 film holders, that film size now available through J&C Photography. These holders are much more common and give you two sides per holder (of course they are more than two times as fat as the single 9x12).I now have three emulsions available to me and yes, I am happy.

tim in san jose

J.Ed Baker

Having grown up about 30 miles from Gettysburg, it was never much of a vacation to us, just a day trip when company came to town. Of course later, in highschool, we would often hook school to go to the battlefields. I mean, nobody notices a bunch of highschool kids at G-Burg on a school day.

tim in san jose

You got vacations?!!!

We got to walk to the resevoir and swim naked with the little fish biting us. And that was only once a summer. And it was 5 miles uphill both ways.

Some people.

Nice camera BTW.

tim in san jose

"At least you figured out how to open it. Quite a few don't."

I love the EBay auctions where someone advertises a Kalart Sycronized Camera. The one with the lens that is 'cracked' in the corner. They then show a picture of the closed up Speed Graphic with the flip up ground glass cover open.

I usually send them a note telling them how to open the camera, but the more they try and pass off themselves as all knowing, the less I am willing to help them out.

tim in san jose (20 years with my Speed and counting)

For yer alls information, parrot droppings aren't the worse. The more a parrot likes you, the grosser it gets. Unfortunately, the less a parrot likes you isn't the converse, it just gets painful. I will wear a couple of reminders of that for a very very long time.

What the parrot who likes you leaves will wash off in no time.

tim two parrots in san jose

Congrats Donald, I hope it's another 9x12 camera or something..

If it's a 532/16, I doubt if it's a strut issue. Unless the whole thing was dropped from many feet. I would look at cell security, cleanliness, and pressure plate. I have a hard time believing pressure plate too.

Have you calibrated your range finder? That's not the whole problem, but it could be making it worse.

tim in san jose

What?????

You are mistaken. There were price increases, but no 20 dollar minimum stuff. 95% of EBay would blow away if they did that.

tim in san jose, home of EBay

Dan,

Yep, it fits in diameter, just doesn't focus with the Speed. Just THAT much off. Of course, I haven't actually put it on the Crown and had it fully recessed, so we will see. If it don't fit there, anyone want to buy a 75/1.9 Occilli-Raptar?

tim in san jose

Just looking at the negatives, you are at least a stop over exposed. This isn't a bad thing if you deal with it in the development. But...

your highlights (and midtones) are highly overblown. Dilute, dilute, dilue. Reduce agitation.

As far as the prints, do you always develop for only 30 seconds?

tim in san jose