wally_hess1

An exhibition of Ansel Adams photographs is being presented at the

Snite Gallery at Notre Dame Univ., South Bend, IN this month.

This will be my first opportunity to see original prints of his works.

 

Regards

 

Wally Hess

I'm looking for advice regarding wireless microphones. I purchased a

Sony WCS-000 wireless system that operates on the 9000mhz frequency,

and has a decent range.

My problem with it is a random clicking sound more frequent when I

move about. It sound like it has a loose connection or something, but

it it brand new. I tested another unit at a local camera sore with

similar results, which now makes me suspect that this type of system

has an inherent problem with random noise (it's not static or

interference as far as I can tell).

Is anyone familiar with this type of problem? If so, what can I do? I

know there are other, more expensive systems out there, and am

willing to consider them if I knew for sure that the clicking sound

would not be there.

Thanks

Here's from Adobe Photoshop version CS -

go to menu - image size

you will see "document size" box that give 2 values-width at some number (lets say 59.11 inches x height 39.556 inches at resolution 72 pixels/inch )

change the resolution setting to 300

change the width number 4 (inches)and the height will automatically change to 6 inches (or close to it)

accept the changes and your picture will resized.

In CS there is also the automatic crop/resize tool that looks like a square with a diagonal line through it. Find it on the menu bar and it gives you several resize choices.

If you are using an older version, I think you have to resize manually. You would have to change the dpi from 72 or 180 to read 300, then multiply 300 x 4 inches (or 6 inches) to get the new value to enter of 1200 or 1800 - make sense?

As stated before, the DPI is really misleading. Your camera takes it pictures based on the settings you chose (example 6mp).

That might be 3mp x 2mp =6mp image. When photoshop opens file, it defaults to a screen resolution of 72 DPI because of convention that says screen images should display at 72 DPI. You will see that PS report the image size at some very large size like 59x39 inches. As you tell PS to increase the DPI from 72 to 180 or 300, you will see that the image size begins to get smaller. The origial camera file size is not changed, only the way it is displayed on the screen

Todd

Sorry to say, the E10 is slow regardless of what card you use.

I did some speed timing when I first got the camera but dont remember the values, except that it is slow and the E20 is slower still.

Shooting at the lower resolution does speed things up. Check the E10 review at DP review site. It has a table of read and write times that shows how fast (Or slow) the different file sizes are for reads and writes.

IF you're thinking about getting this camera, I recommend it for producing high quality images in a controlled studio setting at ISO 80. Higher ISO settings yield more noise. Even though it's a 4mp camera - outdated by todays crop of 6-8mp cameras- it still can deliver nice 8x10 photos if you know what you're doing and don't crop too much.

Todd,

Sorry, forgot to mention about the other question re slow loading times. That is the one short-coming I and others have with this otherwise fine camera. In a studio setting the write times are bearable, but forget about using it at a sports game, too slow unless you are shooting at the lower resolution settings. When I want best quality I shoot RAW mode, which saves faster with the best quality, than the TIFF setting.

Hope this helps

Todd

I have my E 10 in front of me - go into the setup menu (little flag button on camera back). Scroll down to the 2nd menu page where you can change the resolution settings. Make your changes and exit the menu.

To adjust the resolution while shooting, press the little diamond image button on the camera top next to the main setting wheel and rotate the lower setting wheel (camera back) while pressing the top button. You will see that the resolution mode changes from TIFF to SHQ, to HQ to SQ. Find the one you want and you're done.

Wally

The cocking lever on my RB67 jammed during use.

The mirror seems to almost come to the rear, but not quite, and the

cocking lever is almost at the farthest forward end point and is

stuck there.

It happened in the field. I got it home and somehow unjammed it long

enough to remove the lens. Once the lens was off, I disassembled the

bottom plate to expose its innards. I see the cocking lever shaft

with gears, but can not figure out what they are stuck on.

Any ideas? I'm hoping that there is some hidden lever or interlocking

latch that I havent found, which will release the cocking lever.

Any ideas?

Thanks

You get what you pay for. You want cheap and unreliable, keep going to the superstores and watch the local camera stores fold and dry up for lack of business, just like the mom-and -pop grocery stores did under similar conditions.

Can anyone describe the 8x10 Wisner convertible classic camera

(looks, features, etc)?

(A picture would be even better.) What does the "convertible" mean?

Thanks

Is it possible to rent the LF camera while you are there? If so, it would seem the best option.

I'm hoping to visit some friends in Switzeralnd in a year or two, and have had the same thoughts. Why take photos of the Swiss Alps with a 35mm or digital camera when I could set up a 8x10 instead, develop the negatives in my hotel or friends place, and mail them home to print when I return.

I got started with the 4x5 Graphic View for $200, with lens board (no lens), tripod mount, and graphlock back. I picked up a used 150mm lens for about $90, 3 packs of new 4x5 film holders and box of 4x5 Agfa 100 film.

It has ebough movements to use for landscape work and has given me good results in helping me learn LF technique.

Sometime after I got the Graphic View, a friend gave me his beat-up 4x5 Seepd graphic. I think I used it once or twice and really dont like it compared to the Graphic View.

If you plan on doing color work, you probably would need a better quality lens to ensure good color rendition.

In either case, buy a cheap camera and the best lens you can afford for starting out in LF. If you decide you like it, by then you will have a better idea of what you want in a camera.

Consider that 4x5 contact prints are not really that large. YOu may find 5x7 or even 8x10 to your liking.

Go for it!

I shoot and print for my own pleasure. Most of my stuff goes into black binders that no one ever will see. On occasion, I take my better images to work to show to some friends and often give them away upon request.

Assuming you already have the paper and chemicals for developing BW prints - easiest way to do the contacts is to lay the negatives in strips across the paper (in darkroom with safelight only on), cover them with a layer of clear window glass (presses the negatives into good contact with the paper) and expose under bare light bulb (or enlarger light) for several seconds.

A neater way is to buy the plastic sleeves for the negatives, which will make it easier to handle when doing the contact sheet.

I found that by increasing the blue channel the image seems closer to that of BW film due, I think, to films greater sensitvity to blue light. Try adjusting the blue first and see if you like it and then doing the red.

I have a Vivitar 285HV flash unit. Can the flash be safely attached

to the 10D PC outlet? If not, will Metz flashes work with appropriate

modules?

Thanks

I had my first experience this weekend working in a studio that a

friend has set up. Using his strobes and flash meter, he set things

up to take potraits of his daughter using my E10 at F8, 1/125 sec at

camera setting of ISO 80. The photos looked very good, well lit and

properly exposed. My question as it relates to LF - I now want to use

my 8x10 to shoot portraits using his studio lighting. In other

threads I remember reading that large format needs more light than

35mm due to the typical small fstops f32, f45, etc needed to get

proper depth of field. But - isn't f8 on the e10 the same as f8 on

the 8x10 in terms of exposure? If I use ISO 100 BW film and repeat

those settings, would my depth of field at f8 suffer? I know in my

landscape shots I use f32-45 with sharp results. My only 8x10 lens at

this time is a Nikkor 300mm but I'm sure I need something longer for

portraits, but what? What fstop would I expect to have to use and how

much more lighting power will I need? His current equipment is 2

600w/s monolights.

Thanks

I post-process everything. I dont think there is such a thing as a perfect picture, whether in digital or film. Each frame needs the review and judgment of the photographer as to cropping and refinements in color, saturation, contrast, etc.

I take the best picture I can at the time of exposure and know that I can always improve it afterwards. I wouldnt try to limit myself and exclude the use of a powerful post-exposure processing tool if it helps me achieve my goal or vision.

I received my new N80 and was playing with it at home to get to know

it. After taking several outdoor shots of my yard, I came indoors and

focused on my wife and almost blinded her when the focus assist light

came on. I knew that the light was there, but I guess I didnt expect

the searchlight power of the assist, since I am used to infrared

focusing on my digital camera.

Anyone know why Nikon didnt use infrared lighting instead of the

blindingly bright visible light?

I have an Olympus E10 and think it's a fine camera except for long

write/read times to and from the CF memory card I use. I have seen

newer memory cards advertised as x4, x12, x32 speed and so on, and

wonder if that's simply marketing hype or if they really do deliver

faster performance. Does anyone have any experience with the faster

cards, especially with the E10? If so, what kind of speed

improvements did you realise?

Thanks

Thank you for all of the responses. One question regarding warranty work. If I was travelling in, say Canada, on vacation and decided to buy a N80 (F80 in Canada?) to take vacation pictures and then brought it back home to the USA - are you saying that Nikon would not perform warranty work on my camera because I bought it outside the USA where I live?

I mostly prefer printing in the darkroom as the entire LF experience for me includes playing with the film, chemicals and papers. On the other hand, we just got the Epson 2200 printer, so I may be trying it out on some scanned images, too. I think in the end I will use both, depending on the image and what I'm trying to accomplish. I know I will never do LF color work, and look forward to doing all color printing on the Epson via digital camera.

Can anyone explain the difference between the N80 and F80?

 

Also, perhaps some advice here - I eventually want to buy the digital

D100 but currently have no Nikon lenses. If I get a cheap Nikon AF

camera - N65, N75 etc I would want to save money on the body and

instead spend it on a better lens which then could be used on the

D100 when I can afford it. Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks

My wife wants to buy the Canon 10D digital camera. What initial lens

recommendations can you give? Her interest is mainly family portraits

and the occasional basketball game shot. Is there a good quality zoom

available in the (35mm) 28 - 85mm range?

Thanks

Need more information regarding lens itself - what focal length is it?

Normal for 8x10 is 300mm, so it would have to be greater than that to be considered "long"

 

Anastigmat - is a compound lens combination corrected so that both astigmatism and curvature of field are largely eliminated over a considerable area in the image plane.

 

There are several threads in the archives that cover 8x10 lenses plus a good general explanation here: http://www.largeformatphotography.info

Try and art class or 2 on composition - you may find you like it, and learn more than by reading a book.

I happen to be talented in music and plucked around on guitar for several years not really going anywhere until I decided to make the time to take private guitar lessons. I learned more in 1 year of lessons than in my previous 40 years of trying on my own. Sometimes there's no substitute for instruction. As far as "compromising" your artistic vision - a good solid foundation in basic compostional theory will do more to help achieve your vision than not.

Good luck