mike_kim

Is this a joke or are you really asking the question? Of course there is no such thing as plastic body MKIII :) If I were you, I would stay FAR FAR AWAY from those crooks.

Opps, there was a typo. Film size should read 36mmx24mm.

There is no standard 6MP size. Most digital SLRs have 3:2 or 4:3 as their horizontal vs vertical pixel ratios. Since you are scanning the slides, 3:2 aspect ratio scan would make more sense to you.

 

Frankly, typical film scanners do offer 1200, 2400 or 4000dpi optical resolutions. Since 35mm film is 36mmx25mm (1.42" x 0.94"), typical 35mm negative scan can be around 5680 x 3760 pixels at 21MP. Similarily, 2400dpi scan will result in around 7.7MP and 1200dpi at 1.93MP. I think if you scan your film using 2400dpi resolution, you should produce acceptable 6 plus Mega Pixel scan for the publication.

 

FYI, Canon 10D Digital SLR had 3072 x 2048 and it was 6.3MP (3:2 ratio). As long as your final scans exceed 3000 x 2000 and you should be fine.

It probably is sensor dusts, but can't say for sure until you post some samples. Can you post some samples?

Narrow angle light meters? If you are talking about a spot meter, EOS 1V or 3 have a spot meter (around 2.4% of view finder).

I don't get it. If you like Ilford Galaerie Smooth Pearl, why not use Ilford Galarie Smooth Pearl roll with your iPF5000? The trick is to set the paper type that is compatable with Smooth Pearl which uses Photo Black ink, just like Photo Paper Plus. If you were to set your Smooth Pearl roll as HW Glossy Photo Paper roll, you should get a compatable result as if you WERE able to set your roll as Photo paper plus. I also have iPF5000 and that is how I use Galerie Smooth Pearl roll on mine.

 

For available Media Paper and Path options on iPF5000 visit http://canonipf5000.wikispaces.com/Media+Type+Paper+Paths

Canon does offer WC-DC58B (0.75x) wide angle converter, but it is very tidious to put it on and remove (not to mention it costs $$$ and blocks the flash). May be there is a room for zoom improvement for the future G10?

By the way, to get out of auto focus selection, you need to press [+] key (one that looks like dotted cross surrounded by a rectangle), press any arrow keys to select the focus point (or use your thumb wheel), then press "set" key to select the point. Also you may want to instruct the novice to focus on the eyes and learn to keep the focus lock (keep the shutter release pressed HALF-WAY). I found turning the focus lock beep on helpful for novice--whenever it beeps, new focus lock is aquired. If you hear the beeps during the recomposing/reframing, you know you will have out of focus shot :)

If you are in P-mode and one-shot AF mode, you can manually select AF point (read page 57 of your manual) and lock the focus for recompose. In the future, you may want to show how to use a center focusing point (or manually select focus point), press shutter release button half-way to LOCK the focus, then recompose (while holding down shutter release half-way).

Which camera are you using?

A most economical solution would be using multiple zip-lock bags and a large water-tight tupperware. Other solution may be buy a water-proof bag like Lowepro's Dryzone (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/251101-REG/Lowepro_2008090_DryZone_200_Backpack_Yellow_.html). Actually there is a third option. Buying a point-and-shoot digital camera and water-proof case. I've bought Powershot G7 and Canon's under water camera case for my family vacation. Although G7 is hog-slow compare to the Rebel, but it worked adequately above and under water.

Perhaps I can add my 2 cents worth since I've upgraded from 1Ds to 1Ds MKII. To list some of the advantages of 1Ds MKII over 1Ds in the order of importance to me 1) Higher resolution (16.7MP vs 11.1MP), 2) better LCD (230K pixels vs. 120K pixels), 3) dual memory cards and back up capabilities(CF & SD), 4) less noise in higher ISO, 5) ETTL-II, and 6) higher playback zoom (10x vs 3x).

 

I've also used 5D in the past. Although 5D's picture quality was probably equal or better than 1Ds (especially at higher ISO), the feel and handling of 5D weren't that satisfying. FYI, I have been using 1V/1D series cameras since the day they were released, so I've decided to go with 1Ds MKII.

 

Frankly, for most of casual shooters, these differences cannot or may not justify the $$$$ difference. For your budget, I think you should be fairly happy with a clean 1Ds.

 

Last June, I have taken Universal Studio's Jurassic Park-The Ride with 1D series with an 24-70mm f/2.8L. My son and I were soaked to the bones after the ride, but my camera & lens were perfectly fine. Most of riders and my friends thought I was crazy to take such expensive camera gears on a water ride, but that is what they are designed for. Hope this helps!

You need to provide more informations, i.e., what operating system, what laptop, what connection (DVI-D, DVI-D, or VGA), and if you are using a docking station?

 

If you are using Windows 2000/XP, try booting with Safemode. You can hold down F8 key while booting and it should bring your computer to a safe mode where you can trouble shoot and fix your display setting. With some computers if you press and hold a key as the computer is booting you will get a stuck key message. If this occurs, instead of pressing and holding the "F8 key", tap the "F8 key" continuously until you get the startup menu. I hope this helps!

 

-Mike

 

Trouble Getting into Windows 2000 or Windows XP Safe mode

I think the best LCD protector in the market is a multi-coated glass LCD protector made by Giotto. Basically a 0.5mm thin Schott German glass with 12 layers of anti-reflective coatings (6 coats on each side). It uses 3M tape (virtually transparent) and the screen is removable and replaceable if it gets scratched or damaged. I use them for 1Ds, 1D and G7 and they are awesome. It's Hoya S-HMC or B+W MRC equivalent in terms of transparency and clearity. B&H photo has them and you may want to check them out.

My guess is NO, unless the ghosting is caused by UV. If you are seeing a ghost due to your UNCOATED bandpass filter, adding multi-coated UV filter won't magically remove the ghost images. If you were to add UV filter, it may shift or move the ghosting due to the added distance between the bandpass filter and the front of the lens element, however.

 

Now for your second question, coatings are on both sides of multi-coated filters.

IMHO migrating from postive to negative (slides to negative films) shouldn't be very difficult. If you've been dealing with chomes, you should be very good at making proper exposures. However, you will definitely going to miss Velvia color-pop when you shoot films (no matter what films you use nothing come close to 3D color pop of Velvia).

 

Overall, negative films are more forgiving and definitely offer wider exposure latitude. Unlike slides, negative films are very forgiving and you can overexpose negative 0.5-1.5 stops to reduce the grains and get more details in shadows or dark cloth like black tux. Try that with the Velvia, you would've wash away all that colors :)

 

In good ol' days, I used to shoot Kodak Ektar 25 (ISO 25), but it has been discountinued. A big loss for Kodak and me since it was my all time favorite. I would recommend following films, Fuji Reala (ISO 100), Kodak UC100/UC400 (ultra color, "saturated" color films), Fuji Pro 160S (good for portrait), Pro 160 C (enhanced color, more saturated than 160S), and Pro 400H (good & accurate colors including skin tones).

Sorry, my post got cut. What I mean to say was, "This way, your camera will shoot at the fastest shutter speed it can physically

capable of shooting."

Actually I'm not familiar with that lens. Is this (28-135mm f/4.5) Canon EF lens or is that a typo for Canon 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM EF Lens? FYI, if you have a variable aperture zoom lens (Canon 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM), your maximum aperture will change when you zoom in or out.

 

I would use TV mode at 1/250 or 1/500 at ISO 1600. If you get a blinking AV value, it means your lens is not fast (=bright) enough for you to make an exposure at that shutter speed. If so, I would use AV mode with the largest aperture value, f/3.5-5.6, to let camera pick whatever the fastest shutter speed it can use. If so, try to stay with the shorter range of zoom to keep the aperture from switching to f/5.6. Also other thing you should consider is that when you shoot photo with these zoom lens at wide open, your image won't be very sharp.

 

This way, your camera will shoot at the fastest shutter speed it can physically

It depends on your budget! Some suggested lenses are 70-200mm f/2.8L IS, 135mm f/2.0L, or 85mm f/1.8. Most of us, photo geeks, like 135mm f/2.0L since it is super sharp, but it's tad bit expensive. If you are fairly close to the subject, you may be able to get by with 85mm f/1.8, which is fastest among all the lenses listed. If you have $$$$, you may find 85mm f/1.2L II to another choice (slow auto focus, but it is currently a brightest lens in Canon line up, along with 50mm f/1.2L). Perhaps, you can check your photos for actual focal length (mm) you've most frequently used to guide your decision.

It sounds like you have a slow lens (=big maximum f-stop number) that is too slow to freeze the action.

 

What lens are you using to take pictures? Perhaps 70-300mm f/4-5.6 or the kit lens perhaps? The sport setting can't really help you if your don't have a fast lens. Most of us actually use TV or AV modes to tell the camera how fast it should take pictures (it should be at least 1/250 or faster) or use higher ISO setting with maximum aparture using AV mode. Your camera, then calculate the right aperture or shutter speed to get a proper exposure. I personally find automatic mode unreliable for sports photography.

New 580EX II is has a water resistant seals, metal foot, locks on to the flash shoe via slide bar, tad bit more powerful than original 580EX, tad bit faster charging time (20% faster), and dead silent when charging (no more capacitor whistle or whine). I've upgraded my EX580 to MKII and I'm quite happy.

Actually I remember reading something about new Digital Rebel (first generation model) out performed 1Ds in a cener sensor focusing speed at a certain low light condition (around EV 2 - 6 range, I think) from Popular photo magazine few years back. I'm sure that the new Rebel XTi must have equal or improved focus technology to out perform the old Rebel one, so it doesn't really surprises me. However, to be more accurate and fair, you should compare center focusing points on both cameras. Also note that the size of those two center sensors are different so that you may want to vary brightness and size of the subject (fill the entire frame or 2-5% around the center).

Have you try to use only the center focus point on 1V when comparing focusing speed?

I think Rebel XTi with the kit lens is a great way to start for a beginner. It's dirt cheap (cost-wise), very flexible, and fairly light weight. For most beginngers, having fun and enjoying the picture taking process are very important in my humble opinion. If they are bogged down by fairly heavy and not-so convinient equipment, such as heavier zooms and fixed focal length (prime) lenses, they may not enjoy the picture taking process. Frankly, if she ever decided to be serious about picture taking, she can get better quality zooms or prime lenses later. I would also recommend adding Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens as an option so that she can experiment with a DOF and faster shutter speed (available light photography) for mere $70 bucks. It makes a very good portrait lens with 1.6x cropping factor.

Shooting the wedding in the rain is a fairly risky business. Is this indoor wedding or outdoor wedding? If you have to shoot outside, you can either damage your own equipment or there is more chance that B&G may not be pleased with their wet-hair look. If you have a water-resistant equipment, say Canon 1Ds or 1D series with weather sealed lenses or rain suit for your SLR, you risk of damaging your equipment in the rain is reduced. However, you should still need a flash to create catch lights in B&G. Try to shoot everything indoor if possible. If you really need to shoot outside, make sure you have few dedicated large umbrella holders for you and B&G. Also have your assistant carry a couple of synthetic chamois to wipe your equipment constantly. Synthetic chamois can be purchased from the auto part stores or Walmart's auto-section for mere 10 bucks. Good luck!