mike_kim

"Is the focusing slowness only at 1.2 or is it at all apertures ?"

 

All EF lenses focus at their wide open aparture (maximum aparture). Selecting smaller aparture does not change focus speed at all. If you select a smaller aparture (say f/5.6), it only change the depth of the field during DOF preview or when the picture is actually taken.

Have you searched and read all related postings regarding EF 85mm f/1.2L yet? This has been asked many times before (I think I've answered couple of times too). Simply put, 85mm f/1.2L is fine portrait lens for stationary subjects, not good for active children or street photography, unless a panning+blurring is desired effect. Focus is too critical (very shallow) and too slow for everyday use (30-50% slower focus than F717 for closest to 3m range). Frankly, I can obtain two to three focus locks with 50mm f/1.4 before 85mm f/1.2L can lock onto one object. In other words, 50mm f/1.4 can focus in tenth to half second whereas 85mm f/1.2 takes about a second or more.

Similar questions have been asked time after time so you need to be more specific in what you want to accomplilsh and list few of your intended targets, such as portraits, nature, landscape, digital, sports to name a few. Just a reminder that you are buying a camera system, not just a body. For some, Canon EOS is a good way to go because it offers eye-controlled focus and can be used with many proven Image Stablization (IS) lenses. For nature photographers, big glasses with IS lenses are definite plus. For some, Nikon system is prefered since you may be able to use your old Nikon manual focus lenses along with auto-focus lenses. Most of Nikon bodies are more robust and feel a bit more solid than Canon. Nikon has a slightly better flash system, but Canon is catching up too (ETTL-II).

 

Think about what are the important points for you, then choose a SYSTEM (not just a body). Although I am die-hard Canon user, but I have recommended Nikon system to my father-in-law since he already owned older manual focuse Nikon lenses. For the new starter, I have recommened both Canon and Nikon in the past based on individual need and what was on sale (best bang for the bucks). Good luck and tell us your need so we may be provide you with better comparision. Although most of us here at EOS forum are die-hard Canon fans, we often have provided unbiased recommendation to suit specific individuals' need!

Buying a camera is highly subjective to one's shooting styles and no one can provide you with good suggestions without knowing what your intentions are (what are you going to use your camera for). Portrait, land scape, nature or just shooting your family members?

 

You should consider what you want to accomplish first, then consider which camera-SYSTEM you should buy. More specifically, you should consider which range of lenses you need, then decide. Both Canon and Nikon will serve you well for most of general shooting, but which lens system do you prefer? Canon has excellent 50mm f/1.8 lens for $60 where Nikon's don't (cost a bit more). Nikon has a bit more robust body and let you use wider range of older manual focus lenses as well (for Canon, you should only use EF lenses).

 

Read Beginner's guide under "Learn" menu on the top. You will get lots of good info there to start. Please search or tell us more about your background and what you want to do so we can provide you with better customized advises. Thanks,

280.00 USD, that sounds about right. I would recoomend getting them from Adorama and B&H since they can be TRUSTED lowest (most of the time) legit price. You may be able to save few dollars going lesser trusty worthy stores, but too much hassle for few bucks. Good luck

 

-Mike K.

 

PS: May I also suggest using a link in photo.net to support this website. Every cents help you know! Thanks,

You can purchase brand new LW III book at http://camerabooks.com/ (it took them only three days to ship it to my door). Not sure if they will do international shipping, but you can ask them. Good luck, Robert!

 

PS: Not to sound sarcasitc, but you do understand LW books retails for $25-35 (USD), not free. Your message is a bit confusing since you said "... would you send me?"

Have you already looked at Lens work III? I own both and I found LW III to be pretty descent. Although I have to admit, Lens Work II is more of informative/coffee table book (more picture samples) and Lens Work III is more like a Canon product showcase brochure (sort of like the Canon's L-Lens/EOS Systems brochures combined).

If you want to autofocus with your 10D AND want descent quality, get 1.4x II TC. 1.4x TC will lower your maximum aparture by one stop to f/5.6 and 2.0x TC will lower aparture by two stops to f/8.0.

 

Simply put, using 1.4x II TC will give you acceptable quality and you can always digitally crop and enlarge your image to get the quality similar to image you would've gotten with 2.0x II TC image. I own both 1.4X and 2.0X II TCs and I mostly use 1.4x with my digital cameras, but 1.4x and 2.0x with film body (135mm f/2.0L and 70-200 f/2.8L IS lense).

 

For film camera, cropping just right is important (although I do scan them with 4000 dpi film scanner), where as in digital body like 10D, 1D, you can always crop and enlarge your image to make up for not having 2.0X TC. (Since 2.0X TC degrade image more than 1.4X, results are comparable.)

 

Mostly important thing is, how much range do you really need and do you need to autofocus with 10D?

Believe or not, it's MFT curve shows the similar performance to current 75-300mm IS lens. At the long end, the new 28-300mm IS has much much better MTF characteristic (very impressive for the lens of this range). Of course you cannot judge the lens by MTF alone, but this DO lens may not be for those really care for top image quality, but for those who cares for portability with a big wallet.

 

A friend of mine is really into weight saving. Last time, we hike for several miles at Yellow stone, he drilled holes in his tooth brush to make it lighter LOL). He also carries lightest carbon fiber tripod for maximum portability. If I had to guess, this lens can be used by him or mountaineers since every ounce count. Who knows, this lens may be paparazzi's dream lens for being stealth.

Excellent, if these documents are real, we shall see a 28-300mm IS lens, a replacement of 35-350mm soon. I still a bit skeptical regarding the quality of DO lens in a consumer 70-300 given its range and from my own first hand experience in a slightly poor performance 400mm DO lens' over 400mm non-DO lens. (Don't get me wrong, 400mm DO was excellent, but non-DO 2.8L was even better).

488RC0 should be adequate if you want to save $$$. It should offer you descent support for fraction of what other people have suggested (1B+Carbon fiber tripod). I've own both 1B+Gitzo 1227 and Bogen 488RC0+3021/3001. Although, 488RC0+3021 is my backup, it's stable enough to support both 70-200mm 2.8L IS and non-IS, often with 1.4X T.C. Two things I would comments are 1) if not done carefully, 488RC may shift few tenth of degree while you lock the head and 2) 3021 pro weighs ton. OK, it doen't really weigh 1,000kg, but it sure feels like it if I hike more than a couple of miles. If you have $$$ to spare, try 1B and 1227/1228 combo, if not 488RC0 + 3021/3021pro will do the job (however, you've been warned about the weight :)

Scott, free-play (perpendicular to extending motion) is normal for the consumer (even for some pro L-zooms) lenses. Unless it is severe enough to cause shift in image or focus with a mild wind blowing, I would not worry about it.

Everyone has his/her own shooting preferences, but shooting at f/8 at all time sounds a bit extreme (and limiting). How can one expect to use flash to cover reception area with such small aparture? Following suggestions are from my own experience and should be taken as a grain of salt.

 

For most of weddings, I usually shoot at near f/1.2-f/4.0 for portraits (using 85mm f/1.2L, 135mm f/2.0L and 24-70mm and 70-200mm IS f/2.8L) and use f/5.6 or smaller for group shots with primes (20mm, 24mm, 28mm or 50mm). Performance of 24-70mm at f/2.8 is acceptable, but not stellar. It's sweet spot is around f/5.6-8. I would recommend trying primes first if you are really concerned about the sharpness at wide open.

 

Now to answer your questions,

1) for 24-70mm, which I consider as semi-wide angle, focusing at f/2.8 is not that critical even if your subjects moves a bit. FYI, I use both film (1V, 3) and digital (1D and 10D). If you are shooting at 135mm or longer, than it becomes somewhat challenging. For most of your shoots, you can set AV=f/2.8 or f/4.0 and get the speed you need. Only lenses I would worry for my shooting assignment are 85mm f/1.2L and 135mm f/2.0L. At wide open, depth of the field is so shallow when you focus on subjects' eyelashes, their noses will be out of focus.

 

2)It depends. Most of the time, background blur doesn't matter. Most of my customers prefer well-isolated portraits using f/2.8 or larger around 85-135mm. I often purposely expose same frame using a smaller aparture (f/8 or f/11), but most of my client don't choose them for the enlargement calling them plain-looking. Only shots that require small apartures (in my cases) are group shots, church or eagle-eye-view of reception area (garter/bouquet toss).

I used to own a pair of 28-70mm f/2.8L until last year (one for wedding and second one as backup and for my personal use). After I tried new 24-70mm f/2.8L, I sold both of my 28-70mm f/2.8L and bought a new 24-70mm f/2.8L. The new 24-70mm f/2.8L is much improved version of older one, and I really like it at wide open plus it has a water-resistant design (I own 1V/1D). It is definitely sharper at wide end, but similar when closed down to f/5.6 or smaller. Although my 50mm f/1.4 or 50mm f/1.8 are noticibly shaper at wide open, I use my primes less and less often. It's circular aparture blades are definite plus too.

 

However, I would urge you to try it for yourself to see if it is really worth extra 500.00 over 28-70mm f/2.8L for your applications. Even if you get 24-70mm, you should not discard your primes yet. They are still useful for available light photography or when you know you need extra stop or two.

 

Just my 2KB worth!

Wow, you do have lotta questions here. For most of them, you can find the answers by searching (i.e., Canon date code)

 

Your date code implies UM0910=> September 1998.

 

There are quite few people using this lens today, but more and more people are going for 70-200mm f/4.0 since $$$ difference isn't that significant. Let me clarify what I meant by "isn't that significant." Before 70-200mmf/4.0L, only option was 70-200mmf/2.8L which carried hefty $$$ difference.

 

Quality is quite good for ~300mm lens, (better than 75-300mm variable aparture lens), but not as good as 70-200 f/2.8L. Compare to 70-200 f/4.0L, 100-300mmL is a bit soft.

 

Just my 2KB worth!

380EX should be fine for your purpose, but you should be aware of its two limitations over 420EX 1) head doesn't swivel (it does tilt) and 2) lack of wireless flash support. You can probably get one for around 100. Good luck!

I used to own both, until I sold 28-70mm L last spring. IMHO, focusing speed was pretty much the same (Elan IIe), but 24-70 felt slightly faster (5-10%) and less hunting using 1V-HS/3/1D in dimly-lit condition (say gradutation or indoor weddings). Since I never ran any scientific experiment, it could be just me getting excited over new toy. I would say by-all-practical means, auto focus performance of 28-70 is par with 24-70.

If it is really an under-exposure problem it can be either 1) stop-down malfunction or 2) shutter speed problem. If your EOS 3 is under warranty, I would send it back to see if it is your camera problem.

 

However, I suggest to perform a simple scientific experiment before you conclude it is your camera. You can use the same role of slide film (use midrole rewind with film leader out custom function enabled) and same lens on your EOS 3 and EOS 5 to try them out in various apartures and shutter speeds under a controlled continuous light.

 

BTW, how does your built-in meter of EOS 3 compares with your hand held meter on gray card?

Are you currently using any hoods with your lenses? Problem with the step-up ring is that you may not be able to use lens hood. I had similar problems (52mm, 72mm and 77mm) and I ended up buying all three sizes.

 

If you want to save $$$, I would say get option 2 and buy ONE high quality Circular Polarizer. You can find step up ring relatively cheap off Eb*y for 5-10 bucks each. A quality 77mm multi-coated circular polarizer can set you back 140+ bucks easy. I've used B+W and Hoya with very good success (kinda on expensive side). If you are advanturous and willing to gamble, you may be able to locate Hoya and Tiffen brand off Eb*y for fraction of new price. Good luck!

I used to own both, but I sold my 28-70mm lens. 24-70mm is definitely sharper at wide open, but it has slightly warmer tone and more prone to flares than 28-70mm. You may want to check out http://www.fredmiranda.com/24-70/

For the best quality, go with Canon 200mm f/2.8, for a versatility go with Canon 70-200mm f/4.0. Frankly 200mm (even with 1.6X cropping factor) can be too short. Zoom offers a maximum versitility but the speed is a bit slow (it will also affect your focusing ability too).

 

Sigma is OK lens, but I would say use of teleconverter may not be the best way to go for the image quality (it will make it fuzzier than 200mm f/2.8 or 70-200mm f/4.0 plus Canon brand converter). 200mm f/2.8 + 1.4X makes a formidable lens and teleconverter combo.

 

If I were you, I would go with a mint used Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L. You can find one around 825-900 dollars. I know this is slightly out of your price range, but it offers descent quality and speed for $125 more. Later you can slap 1.4x converter to give you extra reach.

At its wide open aparture, I mostly use single shot. The depth of the field is SO SHALLOW, you will need to adjust focus little bit to focus on the eyes, not on the nose. If you are a bit far away from the subject and/or smaller aparture, you can use AI focus. For AI-focus (if tracking is required), I often use different lenses (24-70mm f/2.8L, 70-200mm f/2.8L IS, 100mm f/2.0 or 135mm f/2.0L). I have used 85mm in AI-focus for tracking my 26 month old son, and it was very challenging. I let my son ran around at the Washington zoo and only got about 40% of picture focused (using f/2.0-f/2.8). As a comparison purpose, I've used 70-200mm f/2.8L and obtained about 75% of focused pictures in same setting.

I've used f/1.2L for weddings. Focusing speed is "adequate" meaning once you lock on to the subject (say bride), you will be locked onto her as long as she doesn't drive away on Ferrari Enzo.

 

Initial focus lock can take a second or bit more depending on the lights and current focusing distance of the lens (I've used 1V-HS with Canon's NiMH battery pack). You gotta remember that this is f/1.2 lens (= extremely shallow depth of the field) so focusing is critical. I'm glad Canon has designed the lens for more focus control so more dial in/out is needed; you gotta turn the focus ring heck of lot more than 80mm f/1.8 to go from the closest to the inifinity. Of course, you are also moving heck of lot more weight than f/1.8 EF 85mm.

 

That being said, I would not use this lens to capture the action, i.e., a bouquet tossing, but I would highly recommand it for dedicated portrait sessions or low light photography during ceremony and reception. Heck that is what L-zooms and primes are for. Slab this into your 1VHS, 1Ds or 1D and you will be amazed how much brighter your viewfinder gets (almost as bright as f/1.0 50mm).

I've got a question for you, "WHY"? Don't get me wrong, A2 is fine camera (back in 90's, I used to use A2e for several years), but you will be better off getting EOS 3 Unless of couse you 1) hate E-TTL flash meter for some reasons or 2) just pulling our legs (trolling?, I'm just kidding). What do you really expect from this trade?

I'm guessing some sort of short or bridging with your main dial. Depending on the nature of the problem it may not cause any more damage or it can cause more harm eventually. In short, NO ONE can tell you for sure unless they actually open up the camera for diagnosis (unless this is a common problem known to Rebel... but I have not yet heard about it). If the fault is isolated only to the switch, then it may be safe (no harm will be done to the rest of the system). However, it the fault is causing short to the circuit and/or other subsystem, it will degrade the performance and cause more malfunction. Although it will not be conclusive, you can monitor battery drain to guess if there is a cause for real concern.

 

If you camera is under warranty, you should send it for a repair right away. If your camera is out of warranty, I would suggest get an estimate from an authorized dealer right away. If the cost of repair is more than 75 bucks, I would say forget about repair and use it the way it is. You will probably better off buying a new one or used Elan IIe.