bgussin

<p>I use a Contour Roam 3 on my bicycle helmet.<br>

Here's the episode on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2n_kah2mWiw<div></div>

<p>The Yashica Electro is the camera that got me into photography. I've owned others, but that photo of the Electro got me choked up.</p>

<p>https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byt6Rrp-cSezcVB4aTFfaGdOS1E/view?usp=sharing<br> Excuse me if I underestimate your photography skill level, but I want to male sure you can enjoy your camera. No insult inteded.<br> Here is a link to the manual for the XA. If what you have is the actual XA rather than the XA2 or XA4 (although they may be similar) then you select the aperture you'd like and the camera selects the shutter speed for a correct exposure. The needle tells you what shutter speed is selected. It's an aperture priority camera meaning you select the aperture and the camera does the rest. BUt if you wanted a fast shutter to capture action, you'd use the widest aperture possible (smaller f number). If you wanted a longer shutter to blur the action, then use the smallest aperture possible (larger f number). Have fun!</p>

Kenko 180* (technically a lens filter as it mounts on an existing lens) A 500mm parabolic mirror lens (constant f8...can't remember the brand) A Vivitar Series 1 70-210 constant aperture zoom with macro. You'd have to refocus after zooming in or out, but it worked well for portraits as the zoom had the same wide aperture as the close up. And that reminds me. Based on what I read about the Vivitar Qdos telephoto lens with built-in anaglyph filter, I made one using a Yashica Electro35 and its F-1.7 lens which I disassembled, placing inside of it a half red-half cyan filter I made from a pair of red/blue cardboard glasses, and then reassembling it. It worked!...as long as you enjoy all your photos taken with a wide open aperture, blurry backgrounds, and your subject close to the camera.

I haven't shot with a Pen but I have handled a few. Even the lesser Pens have a solid, quality feel compared to the Chaika. It they were cars of the late 1960s period, the Pens would be nice Audis or Volvos, the Chaika would be a Trabant or other eastern block car.

I have two. My original plan was to twin them on a bar for stereo photography, but I never got around to it, and my Stereo Realist was much easier. Back in the late 90s I liked the small size, and got a smug satisfaction from being able to accurately estimate focus and exposure in my head. The lenses on mine are sharp, but the photos come out a little grainy due to the half-frame format, although not as grainy when compared to my 16mm and 110 cameras. The shutter is quiet, but feels like a thin, springy safety pin is part of the mechanism. I even managed to find a nuetral density filter that fit. Choosing the aperture is a little difficult due to its design and placement. But I like mechanical things, and these cameras are so basic and straight forward that I found them irresistible.

Very true!

Mass...the original image stabilization technology.<div></div>

Cool! I had been wanting to reload a 126 cartridge and try an old 126 camera or two. I have slit and reloaded 110 cartridges and used backing paper. I disabled the sprocket finder on the cameras. Some will cock the shutter without them...some will not. I also have wound s35mm film onto 828 rolls with backing paper. Your venture may lead me to try 126 yet. Nice results.

Excellent! I would love to try out those lenses, especially the 28mm.

<p>Nice job! What about the bellows? Light leaks?</p>

<p>Holy cats! Very nice!</p>

<p>Sweet! I have had a couple of XAs and was wary of the XA2, but your photos are terrific!</p>

<p>Not to be flip, but any SLR with an uncoupled meter that is battery dependent, just remove the battery. I have a Yashica FX-3, and a Chinon LC-M and a Vivitar SL 220. Any of those will work with no battery which disables the meter; and because it is uncoupled, the camera still works. But not my Minolta X-GM. Although it has a full-manual mode, it still needs a battery for the shutter (If I remember correctly).</p>

Too bad the world doesn't always look as beautiful as it does through your eyes.

<p>In these days of wide-angle, small-sensor color cellphone snapshots, I find your photos a breath of beautiful fresh air. The photo of the purses is so simple, yet, not. This might just push me to grab my Yashica FX-3 and run some film...it's been 9 months. After years of participating, I'm pretty much back to "lurker" status on photo.net, but your entries, Rick keep me coming back.</p>

Great job! I enjoy estimating exposures...it makes me feel connected.

<p>I explored 3D photography in the early 2000s. I have a Stereo Realist, a Nishika, a couple of beam splitters, a couple of dial camera set-ups and other experiments. The two set-ups that produced the best photos were a pair of Yashica Electro 35 rangefinders on a common rail that allowed me to vary the stereo base. I used a sliding door bolt to "plunge" both shutters simultaneously. Worked pretty well. Later found two Yashica FR II SLR's that had an electro-magnetic shutter actuator for remote shutter actuation. I made a custom bridge wire that plugged into both and pressing the shutter button on either camera fired both shutters at the exact same time...always! These cameras took Contax-Yashica C/Y mount lenses (usually very good) and I have a pair of 28mms and 50mms. I use a sliding rail for a variable stereo base, and a double ended 1/4" thread for a smaller base in portrait mode (often cropping the photos later). But for convenience at the expense of flexibility and quality, I favored the Stereo Realist. If you are smart about composing with objects in the foreground, mid-field and distance you can get some remarkable shots. I found a used and abused model for cheap and replaced the lens-cover, but it works well, even after sitting for months (years?) and light-leaks are not an issue. I've never shot slide film and have always scanned my own negatives on an epson something 2400. Have fun...well, how can you not!</p>

<p>I know it's not important to the quality of the photos as to how the camera looks, but this camera and kit just look "right" to me. The kit and your photos have goosed my CMC gland, so it counts as a Classic Manual Camera in my book.</p>

<p>I have a Bantam with a green window. I've never had this problem. My money is also on software choosing the wrong white reference. I have rolled the film with the backing paper outside in and this was not the result. Anyway, when I saw the photo with the frame edge and the two notches, a familiar sight to me, I smiled. Fun, fun camera.</p>

We respect things for their strengths, we love them for their faults.

<p>Damn.</p>

<p>I thought about doing this, and bought a pvc pipe cutter, but that made an awful mess of it. I may try this method at some point.</p>

I don't know how "pure" or "period" you are aiming for, but I've done two thing for some of my older cameras. (BTW, ditto, for not relying on old leather straps to hold.) I have trolled thrift stores for half-cases that have strap lugs in them. Newer, older, wrong brand...I don't care. And bring your camera. That way you can check the fit, and the condition of the case before you buy. If you are lucky, you will find one with a screw that lines up with your tripod hole. If not, (or no screw) I have used one or two small, fuzzy, elastic hairbands to gently hold the case to the camera. Depending on the camera there is usually some freespace on the top of the camera to accommodate a skinny hairband. I've also used a modern neoprene and velcro case which usually have some adjustment factor. I find it kind of cool that a modern case opens to reveal a jewel from an older era. While at the thrift store I look for luggage or guitar straps that have swivels by the clasps. I've also gone to the hardware store and such to get inexpensive key chains that have rotating clasps. It may not be period or authentic, but that's offset by the security of knowing the straps will hold.