kymtman

<p>My wife and I plan to visit Louisiana this spring and then again in the fall. We have never been in the state but have seen some magnificent photography of the state and would like to be there and take Photographs for out own use. I would like to make acquaintance with someone who wouldn't care to spend a few days as a guide. I have watched the series "Swamp People" and would not enjoy contact with the snakes and gators there. Only from a distance. We could not pay much for the service, but hope we could find some southern hospitality. Would gladly return the favor for anyone who might want to visit SE Kentucky. email: rtincher@hotmail.com</p>

<p>I have many M42 lenses which I use with adapters on digital cameras. Today I ran into a snag! I put an adapter for M42 lenses on my Nikon F4 film camera and it won't come off. I used the same adapter on my Nikon D2x without a hitch. This adapter has correction glass for infinity focus. It has a small button to push and release a lever that can be moved cclockwise that is spring loaded. I am getting old and forgetful and can't remember how to remove it. Can any of you fellows help me? If I can't get it off M42 lenses will be all that I can use. THANKS IN ADVANCE. RON The adapter is made for M42 to Nikon F mount.</p>

 

<p>This is my setup: MIS Ultratone 4 inkset FSN, Epson Stylus Color 3000 printer, Epson cold press fine art paper and a willingness to learn. Looking for the best method to print b&w fine art photos with the above mentioned setup. Also printing on luster paper. The more I read the more confused I become. Any tips would be appreciated. Could use any curves or ICC profiles anyone has lying around for these papers.</p>

<p>Thinking about purchasing a MF digital camera , so I did some megapixel per sqmm calculations.<br>

Looking at the Hassy 50mp camera with the 36x48 sensor. That would be <strong>50000000</strong> pixels across a 36x48 (actually 36.7 x 49mm for a total of <strong>1798.3</strong> per sqmm. To get count of pixels per sqmm we have 50,000,000<strong>/</strong>1798.3 = <em><strong>27804.04 </strong></em>pixels per square mm.<br>

Looking at the Nikon D3x with a full sensor size of 24x36 and 25 megapixel count we have 25,000,000 <strong>/</strong>34x36 (864) = <em><strong>28935.18 </strong></em>pixels per sqmm.<br>

I know that the 50mp will deliver a larger photo of 2x with the lessor of the resolution, compared to the 25mp sensor with the greater resolution per sqmm.<br>

With the cost differences I ask myself, is it worth it Your feelings on the subject appreciated.</p>

<p>Just started into IR and I have read tons of post everywhere and finally got a few answers to some of my questions. I am using a Sigma SD15 for the photos. having some luck in B&W post processing. My color photos look like crap compared to other's fine art IRs. I am posting a shot made with the SD15 and I want to know if it is too light--dark or too much saturation. As shot then converted to JPG. I need help and I don't care to ask for it and at my age it doesn't matter. I am using a 720nm filter on a sigma 18-50 f/2.8 lens. nothing to brag about but it is a start. If you guys can take this photo and make something out of it besides b&w I would be indebted to you and hope to know your process, in shooting and post processing. Thanks in advance.<br>

t</p><div></div>

<p>I just sent my 20D off to have it converted to a permant IR camera.They will replace the IR blocker with a IR pass filter. They say they have reduced the fee from $400 to $250 for this off season. It will cost $20 for the return shipping. The company is named LifePixel and located in Washington state. You could save some money. You could do it yourself if you have the nerve!</p>

<p>I took a chance on this lens and compared it with a Zeiss Distagon shot from 500 feet away and could not tell any difference. The minolta may have been slightly more contrasty. Fellows the add said "Pinkyshake" that would be the little finger shake. I read the add and saw nothing out of the ordinary in his statements. Actually the lens being sold is one that I am well pleased with. The distagon lens that I used with an adapter was one medium format from my Hasselblad. The camera was a Sony A850.</p>

<p>I purchased a hassy to Sony A mount, and a nikon to Sony A mount, Sony mount to M42 and I have many M42 lens and they all cover the full frame and some of them are razor sharp with good color rendition. I also purchased a couple of Sigma lens for this camera. They are really sharp. Also if anyone didn't know you can use the Minolta Sony Maxxum lenses and some of them are very sharp. Posting a photo of The Milolta.</p><div></div>

<p>Anyone using MF lens on the Sony A850-900 full frame with the use of adapters. I have some Pentacon six and Zeiss Hasselblad lens that I would like to use on the full frame sony. I have been using the Hasselblad and P6 lenses on my Nikon D2x quite successfully. any info would be appreciated. Thanks</p>

<p>Ever think of making your own new leather bellows? Not hard to do, takes some time and patients. Need leather this is a link to leather that is opaque and extremely thin. The place is Columbia organ leather. link: http://www.columbiaorgan.com/col/<br>

email them and let them know what you are making and they will recommend what you will need. They have the proper glues to hold the leather if you need to splice.</p>

<p>I've been using the Kiev 88cm and Hassy for several years now. Here is what I have modified. On the Kiev88 back I remove the plate and increase the opening to fit the raised indent on the Hassy. It is roughly 1mm. Your can use a vise and clamp (with wood either side) and remove the aluminum (after scribing a mark on the back side), with a flat file. Takes a grand total of 20 minutes to complete. The plates won't interchange because of the screw holes. If you want to use a Hassy back on the Kiev, not modifications.<br>

Results; Hassy back Kiev camera = frame mark of 2 1/9 inches. Standard = 2 3/8". Very little overlap.No frame marking.<br>

Kiev back on Hassy camera = wider spacing between exposures.<br>

If you are handy with tools and have the patience then DIY.<br>

I don't encourage just anyone to try it. Only if you are brave.</p>

<p>Not really a question but could be an answer to one phase of light leaks. This was really a puzzling leak that I had with a Kiev-88 re-make by Hartblei. I had used it several times with good luck. It is fairly smooth operating and a bit quieter than my other Kiev88 that I had that went on the blink after 5 rolls of film.<br>

I noticed that when I wound on to the next shot, the crank got stiff for a bit. Didn't pay much attention to it until recently (after a couple of Years) as I was exercising the shutters. Then the stiffness again begin. I wound again and watched as the crank gear pushed the film holder open just enough to let in light where it had leaks before on the film. Also noticed some looseness in the connection of the holder to the body. What was happening was that the body half gear that wound the film back gears was catching on the edge of the film back thereby pushing it open. To remedy the problem I took the film back apart and elongated the opening where the gear goes into the opening to make contact with the body half gear. I noticed that when the gear of the body started to wind it would push the film back up a wee bit also. By some manipulation of the body catch latch and the prongs at the bottom of the camera that the film back sits on I was able to align the gears for a smooth operation of the film winding, and also no light leaks. Think I will Keep the "Bladsky" now.</p>

<p>Peter, you will need a darkslide to take off the back. this will let the camera cock. After you load the film and wind on it will stop on the first frame and the shutter will then cock. When just before it cocks it will get stiff to cock.<br>

In order to take off the back the darkslide must be pressed in to release the catch. This is a safety measure. Try downloading the manual here http://www.butkus.org/chinon/bronica/bronica_ec/bronica_ec.htm now read and enjoy the extremely sharp photos that you can get with this little humpback;.</p>

<p>Chris, take what he gave you and be a better man for it. You can draw strength from what he taught you and your life will be rewarded from that. It is always tragic to loose anything that you care about, but always remember, nothing is permanent. Tears cleanses the soul!</p><div></div>

<p>Come October, my wife and I plan a week in Maine. The lighthouse of interest is Portland Head light. It is one of the most aesthetic lighthouses that I have seen. Would like to shoot sail boats also. It may be early to plan for some, but better early than late. Question; how accessible is the light house for shots one sees in photos? Is there any restrictions to access? I'll be traveling from the mountains in Ky. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>question. On a focal plane shutter, is the relatioship of the opening of the shutter and shutter speeds linear or quadratic when graphed. Example; when the opening is 1mm and the speed is 1/1000 sec at a given curtain speed, 5mm -- 1/250 sec., 24mm -- 1/30 sec.. With a constant speed of the curtain travel, what is the ratio of opening distances of the curtain and shutter speed.</p>

<p>Used an Epson 3200 for several years now with good results. Now that I am shooting 5x7 I am looking for a flat bed scanner for the larger negs. I lay the 5x7s on the bed with the emulsion up and it catches 4.7 x7 without any mask and get good results. I can't remember what I paid for it but it's been a good one. Thousands of scans and yet good, knock on wood!</p>

<p>another photo of the shutter. Patent pending.</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a photo taken with the Industar 300mm f/16&@1/60th developed in D76. The first test shot with the new shutter. E-mail me with any questions. rtincher@hotmail.com</p><div></div>

<p>I know this is not any help mounting the lens, but if you keep your eye on the bay you can find eventually find one. As far as the shutter is concerned, that has been solved without damaging your camera with a packard. Take a look at this configuration of a slip on shutter for the Industar lens. It is a gravity driven shutter with speeds from one quarter to five hundred.</p><div></div>

<p>Took a roll of film to Wally World for development and the lady told me Wal-Mart was discontinuing their developing service in their stores. Several stored are no longer serving in this capacity here near me in Ky.<br>

Any word about this subject near you? Another move toward the end of film!</p>

<p>This was shot with a Nikon D2X and the lens is the older one with aluminum housing. Remember it is the lens on trial here, not the camera. The lens in my opinion is 90% of the equipment.</p>

<p>I like the Lazonia stairs............</p>

<p>One more shot with the Helios40/f1.5</p>

<p>My Helios-40 came today just in time for a photo shoot. I took a gamble on using this lens so quickly without first testing. Well it did not disapoint me a all. In fact It has supprised me at its quality. The lens chrome housing was a bit tattered with heavy use and now I know why. It is a great shooter. Here is a sample photo of the shoot today.</p>