shawn_rahman

What was everyone's deciding factor when choosing one viewfinder over

another?

 

I am thinking of buying my first rangefinder soon (an M6 TTL) and I

have a question about .72 versus .85. Is one more advantageous in

some way, i.e. critical focusing, lenses, bad eyesight, etc.?

 

Thanks for your help!

Perhaps, but there are many here who'd think that the upgrading of one-time use cameras and 800 speed film is hardly a "commitment to the traditional photography market".

 

Perhaps Ilford is having a resergence with their own commitment to traditional B&W.

 

Interesting nevertheless, thanks for the link.

Yes, it is a wonderful lens, but you unfortunately did not state why you want to use filters, or what you wish to accomplish with them.

 

If you are considering simply a UV filter to protect the lens, then you should get one, although there are people who disagree with this approach. If you do this, buy a good one. B&W UV filters filters are about $25-$30, and are worth it.

 

Presuming you are shooting with film, please tell us what kind of film you are using, and what effect you'd like. Then, depending on your answer, we can give you some more advice.

 

Also, photo.net has a great basic tutorial on using filters.

 

Good luck.

"Can you think of any top commercial/editorial/fashion photographers of today that use it? I only know one, and that's Steven Lippman"

 

Why is this important? Are you not going to consider it if you can't find one more name? And who is Steven Lippman anyway? Truth is, it doesn't matter who he is if the camera is a good one and suits your purpose.

 

This is a superb system, and the Mamiya 645 lenses are world class and can be had used for really cheap. It is built like a tank and I prefer the PRO-TL it over the AF version.

 

I'd say most "top commercial/editorial/fashion photographers" that still use film are using 6x7 or square though.

TJ & Randall,

 

Thanks for the good advice. The camera's shutter works as it should seemingly at all speeds, including bulb. I timed it on the longer settings (2 and 4 seconds) as well. With the bulb settings, I can see clear through to the film plane.

 

The film also winds to the takeup roll fine.

 

Stupid question, but what color is the emulsion side of the film, brown or gray, and what side should the image be hitting? I popped open the film back with the film loaded and the gray side is showing. Again, I'm pretty sure this is correct.

I attempted to process the first three rolls of film taken with a

newly acquired (not not new) Mamiya Pro TL. All three 120 strips

came out totally clear, with the frame numbers printed where they

should be.

 

I have confirmed that I am loading the film properly, and judging by

the frame numbers, it appears that the film is transporting inside

the 120 back properly as well.

 

Of course, the camera will allow exposure only without the slide,

and the camera's shutter appears to be working properly at all

speeds.

 

Is there something I am missing? I am following everything in the

camera's manual by the letter, yet found nothing to explain the

completely clear negs. Please help!! Thanks.

A "minty" F3HP recently sold for over $700 on ebay. This is within the past week. I'd post an item number, but apparently that is against the law these days ;-).

I use the SB-80DX often with my FM3A, with very pleasing results. However, I think it makes the kit a little top-heavy. If you don't mind this, the SB-80DX and the FM3A make a wonderful combo. For flash I use TTL 100% of the time.

I second Andy's response about the N90S. I think this is a great camera - one of the best Nikon has ever made. You can find excellent condition bodies near the $200 range at this point.

Wow - just the opposite here. My F100 collects dust inside the door like no other camera I've ever owned, and I've never had this problem with my N90S.

Eric,

 

You will find fans of both here. Of course, if you can afford it and need the speed, buy the 1.4.

 

As for the 1.8, it is one of the sharpest lenses I own. I've never tried the 1.4.

 

Good luck!

Another vote for the National Geographic Field Guide. Simmply a superb book, and one I still read often, after many years of shooting.

 

Good luck.

Can someone tell me if they have actually succeeded in overcoming NAS

once afflicted?

 

I've recently purchased a Mamiya system, but still love all three of

my Nikon bodies and who-knows-how-many lenses. Of course, I do not

have the time to properly utilize all of this equipment.

 

My beloved N90S, which I haven't used in a LONG time (got an FM3A and

F100 too), has been sitting next to some silica in a hardcase for a

long time now. I told myself I'd donate it to some High School or

sell it, but I can't for the life of me part with equipment that I

love but don't need.

 

Perhaps I just need to talk to someone licensed to cure NAS and its

aftereffects. Help.

John,

 

If you are going to be in the city for a couple of days before the parade, find out when the inflating party takes place. It is a public affair - hundreds of people come out and watch them inflate the floats that are used in the parade. If I recall correctly, this is done the night before, and with the right weather, it is quite festive.

 

For the actual parade, it is difficult to continually get a good vantage point if you are planning on walking around. You would have to get there relatively early to avoid being deep - the crowd can get 8 and 9 deep right before it starts. I would say plan to get there around 7:00 AM the latest to get a chance on having a frontline vantage point. The last time I was there, I parked myself on the corner of Broadway & 35th, and it as good a vantage point as any. I'll defer to others to specify the best possible point.

 

You didn't specify equipment, but a wide angle zoom is all but necessary for this event.

 

Good luck.

Sorry to hear about the unfortunate experience. Adorama is, as many on this site will testify, one of the best, if not the best, camera store in NYC. I often prefer them over B&H - I think you usually get better service from Adorama.

 

But of course, things happen - I would give it another 2-3 days or so and call them again if you haven't received it. Strange about the tracking number - are you sure the store told you it is a UPS #?

 

Good luck.

I've just noticed a small amount of oil on the blades of my otherwise

near-mint 50/1.4 AIS lens. It's the lens I use most often with my

FM3A. Have not seen a noticeable difference in performance yet, but

it sounds like this problem will worsen over time, causing stuck blades.

 

Is this lens worth getting cleaned? I've been thinking about getting

the 1.8 or 2.0 version, so perhaps this would be a good time to do so?

Does anyone know approximately how much to get the oil off?

 

Thanks in advance.

I don't think Fernand mean "investment" quite as literally as you folks are taking it. Although it seems reasonable to me to be concerned about the value of photo equipment in this day and age, I think Fernand is more concerned about whether an M7 or MP will still be highly functional after, say, 15 or 20 years or so.

 

So yes, if purchasing one of these is a good value in terms of longevity, then it becomes a good investment.

I am also thinking of trading or selling all my Nikon 35mm gear (a considerable amount of equipment) to got to an M6TTL or M7 with two lenses.

 

I am very disheartened about the depreciation of my Nikon gear, even in mint condition, but am encouraged by the M6's ability to retain value. I was recently at Tamarkin in NYC, and saw a couple of mint M6TTL's still selling for $1,400. Investment and money aside, the thing is just a beautifully crafted thing, and a pleasure to handle. I've never shot with one, but I dream of the day I will.

 

Another big motive is to just scale down on 35mm film equipment; I want to own a film camera that I will still have and love 20 years from now. Only one of my Nikon bodies - an FM3A - has even a remote chance of lasting that long.

Wow - Dan - your enthusiasm is quite heartening. However, it's one thing to be so excited (many are), but how an you possibly be so convinced about a camera you've never held before?

 

Good luck - hope the D200 meets your real-world expectations!

 

As for the SB-800, try the following NYC dealers:

 

Adorama; B&H Photo Video; 17th Street Photo

I agree with Vivek. The first picture looks sufficiently exposed, but out of focus. I can't see how the center focus, single area could be focusing on anything else in this picture.

I meant zoom or long-teles. B&W Photography states that the longest lens he used was a 200mm tele. Very impressive stuff - you should've asked him if he was a bit nervous about getting so close.

John,

 

I, too, was surprised about this. Brandt and his book are featured in the October edition of B&W Photography (UK), and that's where I read the bit about him picking up the camera for the first time only four years ago.

 

I think more impressive than this is his refusal to use zoom lenses. I mean, how in the world did he get so close to some of those animals?

Brandt's is the most impressive book I've seen so far this year. I can't recall another book in which nearly EVERY photograph was simply stunning. I've had the book for about three months now, and am thinking of getting another copy just for safekeeping. It is that good.

 

And to think Brandt picked up photography only four years ago. Impressive, no?

I am thinking of trading my 50/1.4 AIS for a 50/1.8 AIS.

 

I rarely shoot wide open, but the 1.4 lens seems a little softer than

it should until at least f/5.6, where it starts to perform wonderfully.

 

I recently tried a friend's 50/1.8 AIS, and I loved the feel and size

of the lens as well as the sharpness even at 2.8, and especially at 4.

 

Does anyone else prefer the 1.8 AIS to the 1.4 AIS, or is your

experience of the difference between the two lenses negligible?

Thanks!

Thanks, guys. I tried Jermaine's suggestion, and put the flash on M for manual (Vivitar non-dedicated 2800). It is working this way with just the synch cord. So dilemma solved!

 

Thanks again.