mark liddell

<p>For the speed, performance and price it's hard to justify not having one.</p>

<p>Hopefully they will, being able to shoot RAW to an CF card and jpg to an SD card as insurance would be nice to be able to do.</p>

<p>Kevin & Matt have covered it.</p>

<p>You also don't need to buy the IR filter, just tape some exposed slide film over it</p>

<p>In live view the camera uses <em>contrast</em> detection (like a point & shoot) which is very slow. In my experience the AF in live view on the D700 is unusable - it's easier and often more accurate to manually focus.</p>

<p>Shun, interesting. I also use a 1325 and have always religiously used a cable release with MLU from my medium format days without doing any testing with my D700.</p>

<p>As mentioned, you need to activate the meter to move the point (really annoying) or the pad is locked</p>

<p>For sports, you will miss the D300's AF system which is the same as the D3.</p>

<p>Thanks for posting these, reinforces my decision to always use MLU.</p>

<p>It would be interesting to compare durations before taking the shot after the mirror has been locked up. Some people say there is a big difference between waiting 2secs and 10secs with heavy long lenses.</p>

<p>I like these, especially the 'feel better' one. So many very tilted pictures one after the other is quite hard on the eyes but you seem to compose well that way.</p>

<p>The places I photograph are very crowded and I just live with it, if the subject is strong enough the background people don't really bother me. It's a crowed place so I don't mind that my photograph makes the place look crowded.</p>

<p>Despite being tedious and annoying to use, NX2 is pretty powerful and I ccould use NX2 for 80-90%. For really heavy work photoshop is required though and there is no getting away from it.<br>

I use lightroom the most though since it is a true workflow tool, fast and 64bit. I just wish it could do skin tones like NX2 :(</p>

<p>85mm f/1.4</p>

<p>Looks very much like flare to me but it's hard to tell with a tiny processed jpg. I doubt the flash has much to do with it.</p>

<p>For weddings and anything else where you are likely to be shooting outside often you want a powerful flash - don't go for anything less than the 800 or 900.</p>

<p>It's out of focus</p>

<p>The 85mm f/1.4 is significantly longer than the 50mm and a very different lens.</p>

<p>I don't understand the obsession with super fast lenses, it isn't a get out of jail free card for low light without flash because you end up with dof that can only get 2 eyelashes in focus. The price of the canon 85mm f1.2 could buy you a D700, at least nikon has an affordable fast 85mm.</p>

<p>It's worth noting that exposure compensation affects both the ambiant and flash exposure. In this situation with almost zero ambiant and in manual mode it isn't anything to worry about though.</p>

<p>After you set the focal length and max apaterture you can use it exactly like on your F3.</p>

<p>It's good but the corners are bad at f/1.4, improved at f/1.8 but only get good at f/4 and up. Corner performance isn't a huge issue for a portrait lens, it's always sharp in the centre and the out of focus areas look lovely.</p>

<p>Srsly there are bigger issues with nikon gear than having to download a pdf to find out the weight of a lens. In the time it took you to post this you could have done it.</p>

<p>If you want a camera to stand up to that kind of (ab)use then by a pro body ie. a D3.</p>

<p>Note that radio poppers will not work in europe in case that is a concern. They also ignore requests asking about when they will be available.<br>

Pocket Wizard's are very overpriced and the miniFlex system for canon has issues.</p>

<p>You can zoom in to 100% - that should answer the question! Just remember to set the lens to wide open when focusing.<br>

I have manually focused with the D700 viewfinder (split image screen with 1.2x magnifier) with the camera on a tripod with 85mm f/1.4. I then switched to live view, zoomed in to 100% and seen just how off the focus was.<br>

In low light it is not as good as the screen gets more noisy and grainy but that is expected.</p>

<p>You can try it yourself by cropping or stitching frames together (most stitching software will tell you the effective lens length)</p>

<p>Post jpgs with the exif preserved since there are so many variables, 'blown out' could be caused by any number of flash/camera settings.</p>