patrick_mckay

I've heard rumour that REAL photographers don't eat quiche either!!!

What country, and what part of that country are you in? I'm in Vancouver, B.C., and there is a custom B+W lab that still offers pyro developing. I'll be happy to provide you with more details if you require.

 

Paddy

Here's a few links that should be of assistance to you, good luck

 

http://www.m-reekie.com/pyro.htm

http://www.wisner.com/pyro.htm

www.phototechmag.com/previous-articles/nov99-weese/nov99- weese.htm

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PC-HD/pc-hd.html

The emulsion side is placed on the top side.(facing up) The "net" value is what you're left with after subtracting the FB+F.

it's as simple as Googling "gravity works film washer"

 

try entering this link

 

http://www.pricingnetwork.com/bprod_0_2776_C_4771_16620_TOKINA_.htm

Mr. Wimberley, and Hutchings both make recommendations in this regard:

a/ two to three minute pre-soak, with agaitation etc.

b/ quite vigorous agitation (compared to non-pyro developing techniques.

It's obvious to me now, from your story, why AP includes the little locking ring for the film reel shaft. This keeps the reel(s) from inadvertently riding up the shaft. Of course, it was one of the first items to go missing. And as was mentioned, the lid design can trap solution from returning into the tank. I love their reels, especially for 120, but will stick with Paterson tanks, which have worked fine.

As far as plastic reels are concerned, I recommend you to check out the AP brand.(from Spain) I've heard that they actually manufacture Paterson's reels. The single tremendous difference with these reels, especially for 120 are the flat film loading slats. Wow,...smooth, very fast, and always, always loaded correctly.

 

BTW, to address the lingering moisture issue with these plastic reels, I always hang the (separated) reels into the film drying cabinet with the film. That way they're ready again in no time.

Does anyone know if any of the available binocular reflex

viewfinders for various monorail 4x5's can easily be adapted to the

Linhoff Technika V, 4x5 field camera? I know that Linhoff has a

monocular reflex viewer, but I'd much prefer to use both of my eyes

to view the image?

The instructions for Barry Thornton's Dixactol does mention a possible problem, (film streaking) but only with the first time the reels are used when switching from conventional developers to the pyrocatechin based Dixactol.

Barry; here's the link to Maxim Muir's article. Good luck!

http://www.jackspcs.com/pyrotips.htm

 

"...Films which show staining ranging from moderate to little staining include slow emulsions such as Ilford Pan F+, Agfa APX 25, and the so called "high tech" emulsions which includes the Kodak T-Max films, and the Ilford Delta Films."

I wonder if anyone has feedback on Wimberley's new WD2D+ formula, which apparantly provides a "yellow-orange mask" with a claimed improved (avoided loss of contrast) ease of printing with VC papers.

BTW - ammonium thiosulfate fixers(without hardener) are fine for pyro.

Barry, from what I've gathered, certain films don't fair well at all, in terms of developing stain. I'll dig up the location of an on-line article by Maxim Muir regarding techniques for maximizing general stain. "Old style" emulsions like Verichrome Pan, Tri-X, FP4+, and HP5+ seem to provide the maximum stain effects with Pyro.