rover

<p>As a Pentax k10d user, I think I am with James regarding the Pentax AF system. I know that Pentax has generationally improved this over time, but once Scott's child gets up on two legs, quick, very quick, easy AF is the #1 need for a first time DSLR user. Even if you don't know it yet Scott, your little bugger is going to be faster than you can imagine and the line between dad and family photographer is very slight, and you will be scalded for A) letting your child run around without guidance and B) not getting the shot. So at least give your self the opportunity to get the shot. There are a lot of very good reasons to buy Pentax. AF performance is not one of them.</p>

I have used a lot of those mentioned above and have been happy, but the best repair experience I have was with John Titterington who serviced my SRT 101 and 201 after I rescued them from a 20 banishment to a closet. John specializes in repairing 1970s era manual cameras and also sells refurbished equipment on ebay.

 

http://www.geocities.com/~titterington/camera-repair/

 

100% ebay feedback with over 4000 comments speaks volumes.

 

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ50QQsassZtitterington

 

You can also find feedback for him here on Photo.net.

 

http://www.photo.net/neighbor/view-one-about?id=1&about=Titterington%2c+john+at+JTCamera%40aol%2ecom

Condition is always king and a mint late M3 is going to command a premium price. That said, if you are looking for just a user and do not mind some character marks I think you can do much better with some shopping. I bought a very good, but user condition M3, serial number 1,1xx,xxx, with quick load kit which was CLA'd by DAG just a year earlier for $725ish (I forget exactly what I paid). Again, mine is not in mint condition, but that was not what I was looking for.

You may want to look around as your school may have darkroom facilities that you can use for free, or for a small fee, like dues to a photography club.

Welcome to CT.

 

Simonds Photo in East Hartford doesn't do any processing, but you may want to give them a call for recommendations.

 

http://www.simondsphoto.com/

I like my rigid Summicron 50 on my M3, but you guys are making me want to find an old Summilux.

same game again...<div></div>

same game....<div></div>

CV 21 Skopar<div></div>

Oh, and Calvin feeling Old<div></div>

Molly and Calvin<div></div>

Luigi is now offering a clasp option on his Leica Time straps.

I would answer all of your questions with a simple yes.

 

Both the Classic M6 and TTL model are excellent cameras with very accurate meters. Shutter speed dials spin in opposite directions, the TTL is slightly taller to make room for the electronics, no real substantial other differences. The TTL will generally be newer, and therefor you should have not need to have it serviced as quickly as you would a Classic. Remember, preventative maintenance will keep your camera purring.

 

Black or Chrome, cosmetic, pick the one you like. Lenes, all excellent, consider a used 50/2 Summicron for not much more than the Elmar too.

 

Find a good one, buy it and enjoy.

Thanks for the answers guys.

I just found a nice MD 24/2.8 but unfortunately the hood I bought

from B&H's used department was labeled incorrectly and being sent

back. My question is, will the hood for the MC 28/3.5 which is also

labeled for the 28/2.8 and 28/2 work without vignetting? I have

spent a bit of time fitting it on the lens and by my eye it looks

like I am in good shape. I will shot a little with it tomorrow to

see. Has anyone used this combo? (mine is the 55mm film thread

version)

I love the look of the Rigid Summicron, but you may want to consider a Nikkor 50/2, it is exactly what you are describing.

I agree with Al, really nice shots. I also would like to see some photos of people, some taken at wide apertures. The Nokton looks like an excellent lens, your photographs are adding to that belief.

R2a

No customs charges for items coming into the US.

With 2.8 being only one stop faster than f4 it would reason that the new 24-105 lens will be more effective at "steadying you hands" as the IS will give you a 2 to 3 stop advantage in shutter speed. Also, even in good light the IS will benefit your photography, again steadying your hands when used hand held.

 

2.8 does offer a shallower DOF which may be a creative consideration which you need to keep in mind.

This is about the 50/1.4

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FHeH&tag=

This is about the 50/1.4

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00FHeH&tag=

I sold my Ultron to take advantage of a great deal for a 35 Summicron 4th. The Summicron is a great lens, and I will always have it, but I have replaced the Ultron. It also is a great lens which I use now as much as the Summicron, and of course it also is used on LTM bodies too.

Not quite 4x5, but an option

 

http://www.skgrimes.com/paqpro/index.htm

When I have accepted payment via Western Union I have been paid cash by the WU broker. You receive an email with the confirmation number of the transaction (very quickly after the transaction is initiated by the buyer), go to the designated broker and walk away with cash in hand.