jarle_aasland
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Posts posted by jarle_aasland
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<p >About to clean my D3 sensor, I found that my second bottle of Eclipse was almost empty. Apparently, the solution has evaporated.<br>
This is the second time I've had an almost full bottle of this stuff disappear. Bottles have been stored at room temperature, with lid tightly fastened.<br>
I’ve now ordered a third bottle, and wondering how I should store it to prevent the cleaner from evaporating. In a fridge? Freezer? Anyone?<br>
I've sent the same question to the manufacturer, but haven't heard from them yet. Will post here if and when I get a reply.</p>
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<p>Good and interesting answers everyone. Thanks!<br>
Luckily I'm not dead yet, which makes all my work contemporary (thanks Felix - great definition!)</p>
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The following is a photo contest category description: <br /><br />"Open to all subject matter and all photographic approaches, this is a completely open category where you can enter images that you feel best fulfil the category title. These could be fine-art images, nudes, single images from photographic projects or images from nature – as long as the approach is contemporary."<br /><br />What exactly does this mean? "Contemporary approach". Doesn't make much sense to me. <br /><br />Here's the wikipedia definition of contemporary art, btw: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contemporary_art" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contemporary_art</a><br /><br />Jarle
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<p>Thanks everyone - I should have mentioned I was thinking about color film. The 1983 3M film mentioned here was probably the one I first encountered. I remember thinking "wow - 1000 ASA - that's just incredible". These days, both Canon and Nikon have announced 102,400 ISO cameras. Wow - that's just incredible!<br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>My apologies for this slightly off-topic post, but I didn't know where to post it. I'm writing a short article, and I'm trying to remember when the first 1000 ASA film was introduced. I think it was in the late 1980's, but I'm not sure, and I've noe been able to find any info about it. I think it was a color positive film from.. Agfa, maybe?</p>
<p>Anyone?</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />Jarle</p>
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<p>Interesting and a bit different than all the other "visit to Solms" stories we've seen lately. Thanks for sharing.<br>
Happy second anniversary!<br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>I bought a SATA hard drive docking station on eBay a while ago. It was listed as "2.5/3.5 SATA HDD Dock USB Hub/SDHC SD TF Card Reader" and sold for only $30 from a seller in Hong Kong, I think. <br /> <br /> Connects to your PC with a standard USB cable and works flawlessly. Just insert the hard drive into the docking station, plug in the USB cable and access it like any other hard drive. Great for backing up huge amounts of data. Seen here with a 1 TB Western Digital drive:</p>
<p><img src="http://aasland.smugmug.com/photos/572153871_XxPNm-M.jpg" alt="" width="536" height="450" /><br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>Tim - nice one! See you in 2016 :-)<br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>Here's one taken this weekend. Nikon D300 with a 20mm f/2.8 Nikkor.<br>
<img src="http://aasland.smugmug.com/photos/665815668_7Q3Qa-L.jpg" alt="" width="433" height="600" /><br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>Agreed. I've used SmugMug for a few years. It's not perfect - but for what you pay it's very, very good. Highly recommended.</p>
<p>One tip: if you need to upload many files (as most of us do), you should use a third party program like StarExplorer: http://www.starexplorer.com/ (again - I'm just a happy user).</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>I have to disagree with Steven. I'm very happy with my (black) Safrotto. This has been discussed many times on various forums, and many seem to agree with me. Apparently, Domke quality isn't what it used to be.</p>
<p>Just my 2 cents.</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>John - after reading your post I just had to look up your "most viewed" photo. I can see why. Great shot - maybe even better than if it had been completely sharp? (It was very easy to find, btw)</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>You may want to take a look at Kodak's ROC (Restoration of color) plug-in:<br>
<p>I haven't tried this stand-alone version, but it's based on the same technology that is included in film scanner software (e.g. Nikon Scan) - which does an impressive job with old negatives. It really <em>is</em> "Applied Science Fiction" (the name of the company that originally developed it).</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>So far, the original is by far the best, in my opinion.</p>
<p>Please stop this "sharper is better" madness :-)</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>Judging from this screen sized photo, I think it looks fine. I wouldn't worry about it.</p>
<p>Jarle </p>
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<p>As others have mentioned, there are plenty of examples. Content is king - always.</p>
<p>Here's a relatively recent example, from the assasination of Benazir Bhutto (look at the photos starting at approx 2:23 in the timeline). Audio commentary by photographer John Moore:</p>
<p>Moore earned two first-place World Press Photo awards for his coverage of the Bhutto assassination and was awarded “Magazine Photographer of the Year” from Pictures of the Year International (POYi) and “Photojournalist of the Year” from the National Press Photographers Association (NPPA).</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>An impossible question to answer. These two cameras should be as good as anything else. I'd get the latest model. Good luck!</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>Here's one, taken an hour ago. Nikon D300, original lensbaby (at f/4), shot as b/w in camera.</p>
<p><img src="http://aasland.smugmug.com/photos/585481276_JBqf8-L.jpg" alt="" /><br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>Most has been said already, I'd just like to add that I love my FE/FM series cameras (I've got more than most people). The FE2 was my first "real" camera, bought brand new just after it was released in 1983.<br /><br />I'm a left eye shooter, too. Never had any problems with the film advance lever.<br /><br />From the original post: "To me it is OK but nothing special" - my exact feeling for the F3! Never really liked it (but I love the F4, my other favourite film camera).<br /><br />These days, of course, I shoot mostly digital. Too much hassle with film.<br /><br />Jarle</p>
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<p>Known issue. Been there, done that. Here's a previous reply on this forum:<br>
I have the TC17e. BEWARE! It's worth pointing out that you can easily put the grey "body cap" on the TC in the wrong orientation and then have one hell of a job getting it off again. There's actually an alignment mark (just like the normal white body/lens marks) on the cap - but as it's grey-on-grey it's almost invisible. I had been using it for months before I discovered this and then only when the cap had become stuck on the TC causing me to sweat. A horrible design fault.<br>
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<p>Easy:<br>
1) Video has become a must-have feature for photo journalists covering breaking news (for web publication).</p>
<p>2) Again, high ISO is needed by photo journalists, often working under extreme conditions with little or no light (and no, you can't always use a flash)</p>
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<p>Personally, I rename all my files to include the date (and time, if needed) AND the original file name.<br>
I use PhotoRename, a Windows program which I originally wrote for my own use - but there are plenty of programs that can do this, and more.<br>
Good luck!<br>
Jarle</p>
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<p>I agree with those that say that you shouldn't use spaces (even if you can). Makes life easier, under certain circumstances. Same thing with special, language-specific characters - like øæå (used where I live) - don't use them.</p>
<p>Jarle</p>
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<p>Photoshop: Just select the crop tool and enter 7 as width and 5 as height (in the options toolbar) - make sure that resolution is left empty. This will allow you to crop the photo with a 7x5 aspect ration, without changing its size (that's a different operation). Hope this helps.<br /> Jarle</p>
Eclipse sensor cleaner storage?
in Accessories
Posted
<p >Thanks. Here's the reply from Photographic Solutions:</p>
<p>"You would be best to store in a zip lock bag, Also keep it in a cool place."</p>