miguel_lopes

sorry, but I will make an question, more than an abswering...

I never did c-41 before, and I bought the tetenal kit. so far, so good. what I din't knew is that the c-41 does not have a silver dev, and then a "dye" dev, as I read in a 70's (or maybe 60's) photography book.

so... it is differente now? can I, first, dev the silver, and then the dye, or am I completly wrong, with no idea of what is chromogenic dev?

thank you...

miguel

Colour-slide film leaves a yellow/brown "mask" when developed like a B/W neg. In positive color processing this mask is "deleted" with the bleach solution. The problem is that this bath solution removes the metalic-silver (after developed) but not the silver hallides (before developed). So, after we develop and fix, only metalic-silver remains in film. Then we shall turn this metalic-silver in silver-hallide again, This is what is done in the first part of a (real one, not those chromocheese toning) toning process, that makes the image "white" because it changes the metalic-silver (black) into silver-hallide again (colourless-white). When we only have silver-hallied, then we may use a bleach bath safely. Of course, then we have to redevelop the silver-hallide, and for that we have to (re-)expose them again, naturally.

This is just an idea, because I haven't got the chemistry yet. And it seems to me that, this, is bad idea, after all!, and of course, I am not sure if this is right.

Thank you

Miguel

There is another question:

Is ilfochrome P5 process compatible with ilfochrome classic paper?

Thank you

Wich colour processor shall I buy to develop colour prints like

ilfochrome? I will not spend a lot of material (paper and chem's) and

I will not print large papers, just small photos, to begin with.

Thank you.

Miguel

Happy Birthday... both!

Well... I thought that colour dyes would be washed out in fixing bath, since there were no cromogenic development.

I think I'll have to spend a few meters of film until I get some results. Unfortunally I don't have a sensitometer.

Thank you.

Miguel

Subject: developing slide film as b&w negative

Hello. I bought a bulk of out-dated ektachrome epp by less than half

of its price. I would like to use some of this film as regular

(negative) B&W film. I think that can be done, since "I've heard"

before that would give nice results. My question is, shall I use the

same chemistry as I would to positive developemnt, regarding the

bleach and cromogenic dev. baths, or I may use regular B&W chem's

with "some starting orientation"?, and, in this last case,

wich "orientation" shall I assume? Can d/76, hc-110, rodinal or other

be used with this film for B&W negatives? Thank you. Miguel

Thank you all, for your support. At least I got less afraid.

About VAT in portugal from USA, yes, we must pay the VAT and aduane taxes (19% from VAT plus 3% from product type-in this case a SLR). But even so, buying from B&H are less expensive than buying here, in portugal.

Thank you.

Hello.

I would like to buy some equipment from B&H store, from NY. I've

heard about some other people (from Portugal, also) that have bought

photo equipment from US, where is cheapier than here (portugal).

The problem seems to be the payment method that B&H demands. I have

to send a copy of my Visa card (wich seems to me very weird) so they

may accept the payment. Shall I trust this method? And... are they

reliable to other countrie's buyers?

thank you.

I only tried Kodachome this last summer, and I tried the 64 and the 200 ASA. Unfortunally I don't owe a (good enough!) scanner, so, I can't describe it, because only the film can tell itself!, and it tells! The best pictures ever.

I just would like to say that... Kodak, don't finish it, as I've been hearing about.

One of the "XPAN II's" improvements over "XPAN I" is

'Improved IR film performance for high speed B&W IR film '. What do they mean with this, and how does it works on camera.

Is it a special metering system for this film, or else?

Thank you

Miguel

By the way... could anyone explain to me, what are the difference between "autometer III F" and "flashmeter III"? Because you can find the autometer III F manual eadsier...

Thank You :)

Miguel

My doubt was related with the fact of this film have an extra sensitivity to the red and as the tungsten light has a higher factor of red over what is normal, I got a bit confused and I could not be able to get coherent results, doing the readings of light in conventional mode.

What I'm looking for is a kind of Kodalith effect (liso soot and chalk, right?), approximately. I already made this experience, tech pan/dektol/daylight (IE 200), and got nice results to what I intended, for a first experience.

I got some kodalith photos, and other were continuous tone with high contrast (wich I also liked, but were not satisfactory for this expensive film) but not correctly exposed, perhaps, for this combination. I also think that I got some luck... that's why I'm asking for information, wich I'll thank any kind of.

Kind regards

Miguel

Hello.

Tech pan, ei 200, in pure dektol, is showed in kodak charts to be

used at tungsten light to high high contrast. Everything is right

with this.

My question is:

Wich EI shall I choose with this film/developer combination to be

used at daylight (without filter, of course. I think the wratten

filter to use tungsten film at daylight would be logical... right?!).

plase, answer...

Thank you!

Miguel

Hello, I've been using rodinal (high dilution) with ilford films

with nice results. I would like to know how can I use rodinal with

new kodak plus-x film. thank you (I'm new in this!)

Miguel