steve_bauer2

I was in an identical situation. I decided I wanted something to

tide me over until I settled on a DSLR. When I first started

shopping, both of the cameras you mentioned were in the $800

ballpark. You might have noticed that the G5 is getting the

distinctly more enthusiastic reception. I ended up continuing to

play around with a digital Elph, but still felt the need for

something more robust. When prices plummeted on eBay, I

decided to make my move. For me, the wide angle lens was the

deciding factor -- so I got the Coolpix 5400. I paid $440 for it on

eBay. I must say, I can see immediately why this camera isn't

getting glowing reviews. It focuses poorly in low light, and the

commands are maddening. The manual focus is the worst I've

seen in a point-and-shoot, and I must own 10 film point-and-

shoots. With that said, I have learned to use the 5400 and it

does take very good pictures, in fact. There are a number of

scene modes that will help work around the camera's

weaknesses. It's wonderfully light and quiet. If the wide angle is

not important to you, I would barely recommend it -- ask for it for

a birthday present! Do not spend $500 on this camera. I was

disappointed when I started using it, very. But I've been using it

more and more -- although I doubt I will still use this camera in

two years. In fact, I'm already drooling over the new Panasonic/

Leica Lumix. At about four times the price of my 5400.

I own a Minolta CLE, a Leica M6, and a Hexar RF. I enjoy each of

these cameras for their unique qualities, but I do think the CLE

is the best camera. If I were plunking down the cash today, yes,

I'd probably pick the RF for the reasons stated above (parts and

repair).

But I will cling to my CLE for as long as it still functions! It is my

favorite camera. The shutter is heaven. Snappy and silent. The

weight and build of the camera are ideal.

One thing: while it is true that there is no true manual metering, it

is still QUITE possible to meter through the lens. Simply put the

camera on Auto, select an aperture. The viewfinder will suggest

a shutter speed. Now, just select your desired shutter speed --

and either add or detract a stop accordingly. It's very easy to

work around! Bear in mind that most rangefinders in those days

had no meter whatsoever.

I would LOVE to see either Rollei or another company resurrect

the CLE. The M7's are nice -- but they are pricey, slightly heavier.

And another thing -- the CLE has a timer. One of the all-time

great cameras, no doubt about it.

I've owned one M6 for 11 years. While I've thought about getting

an M7, I think one of the cool things about Leica is the discipline.

The compact size invites you to use it as a constant companion

and work with it, within its limitations. You are kind of forced to

work with more care. Sometimes I think having "too much" can

make you a sloppier photographer.

Oh, and did I mention that I also want one black MP and one

chrome one? :-) Oh well, I still love my one M6 and I'm very

attached to it.

You can develop Tri-X rated at 100 in D-76 1:1 (68 degrees) for

7.5 minutes. Some people do this reguarly because it reduces

grain considerably.

I have heard people familiar with Mary Ellen Mark say that she pulls Tri-X --

meaning she rates it at either 200 or 100, which will reduce grain considerably

and really bring out greys. I saw her shooting on the street in Manhattan once,

and saw that she was using a Fuji 645 fixed lens rangefinder, which probably also

contributes a lot in those deparments (although I'm sure she uses other

cameras too).

In photography classes, we were taught that film buckles as it absorbs water.

When you add development to this reaction, you risk ending up with uneven

development, streaking, cracks, air bubbles, or other undesirable variables. This

is especially true when using high-speed developers like T-Max and HC-110.

Pre-soaking your film eliminates the step of absorbing water, and your developer

can get straight to work.

I have eliminated a pre-soak, and found that I got more streaks and bubbles. I

always pre-soak and have been happy with the results.

I have heard about the emulsion that can come off in a pre-soak, and have heard

that this applies mostly to the T-Max films. I use Tri-X with D-76 or HC-110, and

can't say I've ever experienced a problem.

Rate Tri-X at 100. Develop in D-76 1:1, 68 degrees, for 7.5 minutes. (Kodak

recommends 10 mins at EI 400). There is NO grain and the shadow detail is

remarkable.

Personally, 100 is a bit slow for me. I rate it at 200 and develop it in D-76 1:1

for 9 minutes and like that very much. Great negatives -- very fine grain, great

shadow detail, nice contrast.

Ooops, I mean 1 part STOCK SOLUTION to 8 parts water. I'm very sorry.

Once again, I use it 1 part PURE CONCENTRATE FROM THE BOTTLE to 31 parts

water.

Sorry again.

Read the label more closely. Better yet, read the literature on it, because I think

the label might be very unclear.

1:8 refers to 1 part water to 8 parts STOCK SOLUTION. There should be a

recipe for the stock solution on the bottle somewhere. (I don't use it from

stock solution).

I just today processed some Tri-X in HC-110 1:31. That's one part PURE

CONCENTRATE to 31 parts water.

The directions for HC-110 are maddeningly confusing. But I used it today on the

new emulsion for Tri-X and am very happy with it.