jose_chang

I bought a boom and a air cushioned as well. Before I bought it, I search the last 30 days on Ebay from people who bought it. I email quite a few winner to see how they like it, quality wise, etc. and most of them came out positive. I didn't have any problem with shipping what so ever. I will say it is good but I don't think they can compare with brand name.

Since Amvona is selling on Ebay everyday, it won't be the end of the world. I would not overbid, If I don't get it today, I will get it tomorrow, then tomorrow, etc.

That was I thought, I am kind of suspicious when a seller and buyer are the name person but never could prove it. If the seller is very smart, he could jack-up the bid as high as possible without beating the real buyer by using a dummy account. When I see the price so high with the buyer that has 0 feedback, I think that is the seller try to get more money. The worst he could loss is a small percentage to pay for Ebay but he/she got more to gain than to loose.

Yosemite Valley, Every season is different. The water in spring, the snow in the winter, the changing colors in the fall.

I found one place here in San Francisco, they quote me for processing a 120 film and print 12 exposure(5x5) for $9.00 out of the door. I will assume this will be a 6x6 film. For processing a 120 and print 15 or 16 exposure(4x6) will be $11.50 for a 645 film.

 

Does anybody know other places around San Francisco Bay Area that are cheaper?

 

thanks

I once call Pentax USA about the custom function. And what they told me, Pentax USA(Colorado) is the only place in the whole USA that can do that. The other Pentax authorized center accross the USA don't have the equipment to do it.

Since you are a college student, like me. I sign up for the photo lighting at college. You will learn a lot about studio lighting. See if you school teach you photography. It is too much too cover.

There is chromeworks in SF with a 2 hour turn around. 415-957-9481.

This store open Saturday as well. Many lab are close for the weekend.

Heard many good thing about this place.

Fuji is nice because of the 6x9 format, Mamiya 6x7 is nice because it is lighter, and Pentax 67 is great because of the SLR but heavier.

 

Really every camera is very unique to each of its own and there are no perfect camera for everything. You may want to rent to see which you like the best.

 

I have done printing with 6x7 format. Without crop, the 6x7 can give you a very nice 20x25 on a RA-4 printing. If you want a 20x30, then you need to crop a 6x7 or a 6x8 will do it.

Craig,

Regarding the Calumet softbox. I also bought the special deal calumet nova softbox. I look at the whole medium nova softbox and did not see any reference that were made by Red-Wing. On the contrary, I heard from other people as well as calumet website, the Calumet illuma are made by Red-Wing.

 

"Please Note: Calumet Illuma boxes and Redwing Cumulus boxes are manufactured in the same facility with the same technical specifications. You may receive either brand when ordering a Calumet Illuma soft box. If you would prefer to receive a specific branded soft box, please notify us and we will make every attempt to satisfy your request"

No, It does not rotate when you focus the lens. Since I don't have the manual version I wouldn't know. But I will be interesting to find out.

My F100 camera come with a 1 USA warranty. But if you bought it with a credit card that extend anything that you purchase for an addictional year, then you are cover. 1 year from Nikon and 1 year from the credit card.

Sanford,

What is CLA stand for?

I have not send in my yet. I will send it probably next week. The power switch just got defective last week. Once they repair it, I will know.

Yes, I just call Nikon recently. It still stand. Nikon USA will give you a free estimate. But if you refuse the repair, you will get a $10 charge for shipping back to you.

Lucky I charge to my credit card and it got one addictional year extended warranty from Nikon. My F100, after 1.5 year, the power switch got defective. $200 seem to be expensive. because you can buy a new one for 800+ after rebate. That it is like 1/4 of the price.

I already spend over 10k in the last 2 year from MF, enlarger, studio equipment, etc.

Good thinking and investment on stock market paid by itself.

Back in Feb 2004, I bought 20 Sensia 100(Gray Market) from B&H. When I receive it, it was the "NEW" Sensia 100. In Feb it was $2.89. Now it is $3.09

 

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid109/p9c630ef08fa51a3f08ab8ea5bf2795c4/f929deb0.jpg.orig.jpg

My college still teaching ilforchrome. P30 chemical is not cheat especially for students. In our case, the student need to buy P30 chemical. Our college also teach RA4 printing. It will be more economical to learn RA4 printing before going to Ilfochrome. For first timer, I see all the time students just keep wasting paper to adjust color.

The P30 chemical is self-neutralizing. You drain the developer and bleach first and mix together. After, you drain the fix and mix it. next, dump it. right after you dump it, throw some water. The P30 chemical is very toxic, so use glove if you are alergy to it. The smell is very strong so be careful.

so if you decide to go with analog printing, RA4 = cheap paper + cheap chemical, Ilfochrome = expensive paper + expensive chemical.

Think about this.

Any store that sell film, they have to get it from the manufacture oneway or the otherway either Fuji or Kodak or whatevery company.

 

When those store order those film to sell it, well, how are they going to get it. For sure, they won't send them especial delivery by putting all the film in a refrigerator and get it to them.

They just send it UPS, airbone express, federal express, or any mean of transportation regardless of weather condiction.

 

So don't worry about it, If UPS got it warm to you, it will apply the same way, warm to any local store or online.

No different except 220 is just longer thus providing more frame.

 

1. Some medium format camera has 120 film insert and only 120 will work unless he/she buy the 220 film insert.

2. Some people just want to shoot less pictures on a 120 and then change from slide to negative without waiting too long the film sitting in the camera like in 220.

 

But otherwise it is the same. When process at the store, for a 120, you get half the prices of the 220.

You may want to contact Pentax services support toll free number. They are very good. I call them many time and they answer right away.

It happen to me. I got 2 camera, One work and the other didn't work. so I ask the teacher. the answer I got is some camera has polarity on the socket and some don't that it is why some camera work. so you may have to reverse the plug.

I have the 645nII. basically it is almost the same. sync speed at 1/125 would NOT even fire at all either with the strobe or a mount flash.

This is a good site http://luminous-landscape.com/ and it talk about medium format and other stuff.

 

As far as I know beside the Pentax 645 that do data encoding, The Contax 645 does it as well.

For something like this, I doubt it if calling Fuji would know any better. Normally those guys will follow what the documentation/specification would say. In a big company whatever an engineer do, the tech support wouldn't know.

The best way to find out is for people who know the inside out of film and compare shot between the old sensia and new sensia.

May be this is not related it but it is close.

 

I have been shooting 35mm for a long time and it is very easy to load the 35mm into the camera.

 

I bought a new Pentax Medium Format camera. and this was the first time I ever play with a medium format. Without reading the manual, like many people does. I thought I could figure it out to put a film in it.

 

So I load the film and winding the film advance. I past the mark that say START. try to Keep winding until I see the film lead jusk like a 35mm. Once I see the film lead, then I will close the back door.

 

Well on my way to the film lead, I keep thinking, where is the film lead. then I stop winding and thinking may be I am doing something wrong. Right after, I read the manual and lucky I didn't expose the film by looking for the film lead. I rewind it back and follow the instruction to close the door when the film hit START.

 

Oh well, everybody learn their mistake.

I have seen Velvia 50 print on a ciba/Ilfochrome. The colors are so deep and vivid. The ilfochrome classic paper are thicker than the regular RA-4 paper. If you have a good well expose slide, then you shouldn't have much problem printing on ilfochrome. Like many have said, it is better a little under expose like 1/3 or 1/2 to get the most out of the print.

Many of the local professional store around my area no longer do Ilfochrome, they scan it and print digitally.

But the good news is, some community college still teach ilfochrome.

A contrasty slide can be print, but you might have to dodge and burn or doing some masking.