benjamin_ng

has anyone compared EF100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM with EF90-300mm f/4.5-

5.6 USM?

Well, 75-300 lenses is more expensive, but "At 300mm as far as I can tell the resolution is the same as the 100-300USM. In the 100-300mm range, there's very little difference in the optical performance of any of the 75-300 lenses and the 100-300 USM."

As concluded from the review, it seems EF100-300/4.5-5.6 USM should be good to me. But this lens has been replaced, would 90-300 just the same or ever better in quality?

Looking for some advises please!

I'm planning to buy a tele zoom. EF70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM has

been quite attractive to me, but it's just too expensive. How would

you compare the other Canon lens in this range? Say,

EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM

EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM

EF 90-300mm f/4-5.6 USM

EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM

...

To those who are using EF17-40/f4,

Could you tell me the filters (especially PL) that you are using?

And how's their performance, say vignetting?

If there are regular filter fit (no vignetting) for this lens, I

don't want those slim.

Thanks,

I will buy the EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM. Before that, I would like to

know which filters will work for this lens (without vignetting)!

1. UV and

2. Polariser (PL)

I have the Cokin P size filters and PL, will there be vignetting

when used with this lens? And, how about the Canon UV and PL filters?

I'm new to reversal films. I just developed a few rolls and find the

qualtiy of reversal films very nice.

I'm planning to take some night shots - city lights. My questions

are:

1. Which reversal film good for this topic?

2. Reversal films offer so little exposure latitude as compared to

negatives, how could I determine the correct exposure on field?

Thanks!

As found mentioned in someplace else, some other filters could fit into the Cokin P system.

Do you know any one of them?

Kevin,

What's the warm color filter you used with Provia 100? 81A?

Is "Kodak Ektachrome Infrared EIR" ordinate color reversal film? I see the work "infrared" in it.

In 2 different situations: in the morning of one fine day - no strong sun, and in a studio.

I developed a roll of slide and a few rolls of negatives. In both case, the quality of those slides is high - saturated. While the negatives, it tends to be a little over-exposed - not seriously but a little!

I compared them on screen after scanner with the same film scanner.

So, are there any other flexible and higher quality filter system in the market?

As you said, polarizing effect could not be added in the digital darkroom, it is necessary. How about the Cokin polarizer... as bad? Should it be glass or plastic?

I would like to buy a few color filters 81A and 82A. And I found the

Cokin system very flexible.

However, the salesperson told me that most people using Cokin would

only buy their funny filters. For serious use, like polarizer and

color correction filters, the common glass filter would be more

preferred.

My questions:

1. Are those Cokin polarizer, ND, gradual and color filters quality

good enough to be used?

2. I would scan all my film into computer for processing instead of

printing out. Should I make the color correction with my PC instead

of those color filters?

Does anyone know whether the build-in light meter of Canon 30/7E

tends to over or under? And how much?

I'm new to reversal films. I just developed a few rolls of reversal

films as a try. And the result is unexpectedly good.

In comparing them to the negatives taken on the same day, the colors

of those reversal films are much more saturated. (I haven't

outputted into photos, but rather scanned with a film scanner and

compared on screen.)

My questions are:

1. Is there really a big difference between negatives and reversal

films, or we could narrow the gap during the printout/scanning of

negatives?

2. Any recommended reversal films: for portrait and for scene?

As stated in the reviews found in the Internet, the most stated cons

of the new Canon 17-40 f4 L lens is that its image looks soft near

the 40mm end. My question is how significant is that? Would that be

obvious in ordinary prints or film-scanned?

My second question is: f4 is not fast. As a wide-angle zoom lens, is

f4 already enough? Would that be a factor affecting its usability?

Thanks!

I'm thinking if buying a flash for my EOS 30. I'm not familiar with

flash photography; I seldom use flash.

So, I would like to know if Canon flash should be better, or I

should go for other brand, say Metz?

Would there be compatible issues with those third-party flash?

Any recommended model(s)?

Is that only Minolta SDIII suffer from too-much-grains issue? Or quite a common to film scanning?

BTW, are there any sites providing suggestions on setting for specific scanner when specific film is used? It should be quite useful to beginners.

Bill,

It should FujiFilm ISO 100/200 (no information on hand). And, the "Extract 2" is from a different photo.

I heard about the term "grain" but not exactly know what it is and how it comes. Should that be about the film quality, or introduced during film development in lab or scanning?

Brian,

Are you using the same model of film scanner as mine?

What's the resolution you used to scan the photo you posted? Could you post on with highest resolution? I found in my limited number of test scan, the "grain" become more serious as the scanning resolution increase.

I just have the film scanner for a week, and found the quality not

as good.

I'm not sure if it's because of the film/photo, the setting that I

used, or scanner problems. Or else, it's just what this (film)

scanner can do.

Attached below are extracted from a JPG scanned from 35mm film in

2820 dpi 8 bits JPG without retouch. Please give me some clues

especially those using this film scanner, thanks!<div></div>

I recently purchased a new Canon camera too. My first lens is EF 100mm F2.8 Macro USM as I want to take some Macro photo, and 100mm should served as a portrait lens.

However, if I want to go travel with lightweight so I need a all around lens, I will possibly pick up the EF 24-85.

To me, the 4mm in wide-side is more useful than the 50mm in tele-side.

Does anyone using the hood with his/her EF 100mm F2.8 Macro USM?

It's around USD 32 here in HK. Just want to know if it help in photo

quality, and worths the money?

I have already had my EOS 30 replaced with a new one, and seems no problem.

I do plan to buy the BP300. Would it accept NiMH rechargable? And how is the preformance as compared to using CR123A?