jasona1

I am trying to display images on my tv as the subject states. I can

display images shot with 10D with no problem in their original form.

If I manipulate them with PS and copy them back down I am unable to

view them even with LCD. "Incompatable JPEG format" is the error I

get. I would assume I should be able to view any jpg files on the lcd

or with the video cable. Am I missing something?

set the custom function to allow Av mode to fire at 1/200 when flash is on regardless of Fstop

10D= 1.6X focal length multiplier

1D = 1.3

1Ds = 1.0

 

of course there are many other differences but those are the biggest in my opinion.

I am currently using my HP1115 Photo Printer as a compact flash card

reader. It is painfully slow. Anyone know how it compares to

dedicated readers out there? I have USB1.1 so 2.0 devices aren't

being considered right now.

 

thanks....

older

most places want 300dpi. you should be able to look at the image size and set it accordingly. Depending what version of PS you have the steps are slightly different.

The metering type for the minilux is listed as " Integral, center-

weighted". Does this mean it is TTL? It seems like it would but since

it does not specify.....

That is roughly $1200 for the first two....

just click "EOS Digital SLR Bodies " category at the bottom and it filters out the others.

do nothing different than you do with negative film

any particular reason you are cleaning? do you actually see dust or dust spots on your images? or are you cleaning for preventative maintenance. I would suggest clean it only when it is dirty. If you aren't changing lenses in a dusty enviroment or just mainly keep one lens on then you shouldn't have to clean it twice in 6wks. remember to have a fully charged battery when you do clean it.

bhphotovideo.com has been good to me. Adorama is supposed to be good as well. ritzcamera.com. make sure you click the links on this site so photo.net gets part of the proceeds.

Thanks for the feedback, guys. Just to add some technical info to the mix, images were shot at 1/200 5.6 ISO 100. At this level I would expect from nose to ear to be relatively sharp. I know that on film I get much sharper results and I expected that from the 10D as well. I am pretty positive that camera shake did not induce the "softness". So big question is are these results what I should expect? Once sharpness was added and USM was applied the images became tack sharp. Should I just accept that this is the way the 10D performs or should I have it looked at?<br>

 

link below is for same image with USM and sharpness applied. ignore noise that manifested itself in the hair as a result.<br>

 

<A HREF="http://www.aphoto.net/aidan/images/aidantest3.jpg">3</a>

Alan, in answer to your questions. Sharpening is done in Photoshop 7. There are no parameters on sharpening like there is on the unsharp mask. Using the USM helps as well, however. I assumed that the images should be sharp from the get go. If the 10D is supposed to be "soft" then I can live with it and sharpen via computer.

 

the first image is with no sharpening and the second is with one level of sharpness applied (meaning sharpening filter applied once).

I see a pretty big difference, myself in the two.

50/1.8 MKII but I have noticed it with 70-200/4 as well

<A Href="http://www.aphoto.net/aidan/images/aidantest.jpg">1</a><br>

<A Href="http://www.aphoto.net/aidan/images/aidantest2.jpg">2</a>

I apologize in advance for the large file sizes but I figured for the

most accurate test full size was warranted. the two images are full

size crops from my 10D. The first is straight from the camera and the

second has sharpen filter applied (only once). Big question is are

all 10D images this "soft"? I have parameters set to +1 sharpness.

generally the fogging is only on a very small portion of the frame(varies by camera). You might want to shoot a roll of HIE and just crop the bottom to eliminate the fogging on the prints. From what I understand the other infrared films are not near as sensitive so they don't get fogged but also don't produce near as dramatic results as Kodak HIE.

 

only one way to find out........

answer taken from post below (3 down)<br>

 

 

Answers<br>

 

Sudhir: I couldn't find the actual post, but I haved the information. Here it is: <br>

Velvia Contrast +, Sharpness +, Saturation +, Color Tone - <br>

 

Portra NC Contrast -, Sharpness 0, Saturation -, Color tone 0 <br>

 

Portra VC Contrast 0, Sharpness 0, Saturation +, Color tone 0 <br>

 

 

The original May 17 post was by Noel Davis. Thanks Noel!

 

BTW...Sudhir, congratulations on finding your 10D in stock. I had to wait about a month to get mine. It was a worth the wait!

 

-- Melissa Eiselein , June 12, 2003; 11:50 A.M. Eastern

I would agree with Bob but in this case they went backwards instead of just not going forwards.

Mine is that way as well. Best I can tell is it is still reading from the card. if you notice when it does this the red busy light for the cf card is on. Both sandisk and lexar cards performed the same way.

I just came to the same conclusion last night. Surely we both must be missing something.

I notice no difference than my EOS film bodies.

All I can say is get the 550. I just got a 420 and while I really love the results the 550ex would suit your needs better. If you are shooting cars then you need to use high speed sync and the 550ex will give you more distance. I assume your Rebel Ti has high speed sync? maybe not.

are there things that you will be shooting specifically? (i.e. birds, sports, etc)