stefanovandelli

Thanks for your help. I checked the neg with a loupe and the problem is definitely not dust. It seems to run across the whole length of the neg. Maybe I just rough it up too much with the squeegeing, which I repeated a few times (don't ask me why).

Reading the advice given previously to other people on this board I think that next time I will wash in distilled water and not squeege at all.

Hi all, I am new to this and today I developed my first roll of HP5+

in Ilfosol S, 1+9 for 7min as from instructions.

First of all I was quite excited to get some images at all but then

looking at the scans that's when the questions started.

First of all the grain is quite pronounced. This is my first HP5 and

it took me a bit by surprise. Is this normal compared so, say, Delta

100 or even 400?

Along the leght of the film there are some marks that I cannot

explain. These are quite nasty and I should really find out the

reason for their presence. Please look at the sample below. Any clue

of what could be causing this? Could I have caused it by squeegeing

the film with my bare fingers a few times?(BTW, the negative seems

clean and therefore we can exclude the possibility of dust)

Any help or suggestion would be very much appreciated.

Cheers,

Keith,

I would replace a Nikon with another Nikon unless she has good reasons to move away from her current system.

The D70 is apparently a very good camera (No personal hands on experience. I have a 10D) and the price is not much higher than a 300D. At least she wouldn't have to replace the lenses.

Cheers,

David, the process of sharpening simply increase edge (or border) contrast. It does not add any detail, though it can add artifacts if overused.

A better lens will actually resolve more detail among other benefits.

The two options are not interchangeable and should not be confused.

Thanks guys.

Anyone out there actually tried this lens on a full frame body (film or digi)? Is the performance as good as it is supposed to be on the 1.6 central crop?

I am on the market for a wide zoom for my EOS film and digital bodies

and I have been looking at this lense's specs and it would seem

usable on both bodies.

On the other side, Mike Jonston said: ""Di" stands for "digitally

integrated," by which Tamron means to signify that the lens was

designed specifically for APS-C sized sensors."

I am confused. Can it be used on my EOS30 with the same good results

that it should give on a 1.6 crop digital body (10D)?

At a car boot sale I cheaply bought a Russian Zenit SLR with few

lenses and various other accessories. Among the lenses there is a

Pentacon Auto 2.8/135 made in G.D.R.

Does this lens have any value and would it fit on other cameras?

Thanks for your help.

Bob, I am not sure I understand your question. Are you asking if the D70 breaks more often than other electronic appliance? I don't know the answer to that, but what I know is that any insurance is a form of gambling between two parties, the insured and the insurer.

Recently a friend of mine had an accident with an EOS30 and although the camera had extended warranty it wasn't covered for accidental damage. He contacted Canon and found that ANY repair on that camera would cost a fixed 95GBP (pounds sterling) regardless of what it is broken. I suspect that the extended warranty costed something in that region anyway. In the case of my friend the extended warranty would have been a good investment only if the camera had broken more than once during the insured period due to components failure. How likely is that? Not very, and the insurers know it.

I would suggest that you do a quick check on the possible/likely repair costs before committing to additional cover.

Then again, what price do you put on peace of mind?

Cheers.

I just checked the 10D manual. C.Fn-04 set to 1 causes AF and AE lock to operate separately. The <*> button operates the AF while the shutter button operates the AE lock.

I think this operates the same on a 300D with the Wasia Firmware.

Ensure C.Fn-04 is set to 0.

Good luck.

Hanna, on the 10D there is a custom function that allows the move of the AF function from the shutter button to a button at the back. If you have a hacked firmware, have you been playing with the Custom Functions values?

Before sending it for repairs I would reload the original firmware and see if that fixes the problem.

Good luck.

"Why wouldn't you want to be Bob's friend?"

Have you seen his self-portrait?

http://www.photo.net/shared/portrait.tcl?user_id=14630

Oistein, the noise/posterisation you see is quite caracteristic of C1 (according to my personal experience with the software).

You can try two things:

1) Try playing with the noise reduction setting in C1. If you push it to the max setting the image will get softer but the posterisation will be reduced.

2) Use the Canon conversion software. The image will contain more noise but no posterisation. At ISO400 the noise should be quite low anyway.

Cheers

Knicki, most of the messages left on Photo.net are criptic, LOL.

The real issue is: Based on her history with the subject does she feel abused by such messages or threatened? If she feels abused, the people she needs to deal with are at the abuse email address, but I suspect that the history will need to be disclosed to some extent. Without the history a criptic message is just.... criptic. If she feels threatened she might want to talk to her local police dept, but that's a different story.

I presume that she has tried to send an email to the person in question and politely request an end to the criptic messages, yeah?

I am with you on the point of sorting images within folders, but in your case I think you could effectively exhibit your sequence in a "presentation".

http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation-add

The best way around the rating issue is probably to submit the photos for critique only and put a text in the critique space detailing the address of your presentation and your wish that it should be critiqued as a whole.

Cheers,

I say kill the ratings altogether. No more, finito, gone, forever. Only critiques left.

"Ahhh, but what about the TRP..." I hear you saying.

Well, how about a rotating group of individuals nominating whichever photos they personally like. After all someone is already picking a POW and they are not doing it based on ratings (thank God).

Q.Are the TRP going to be fair? A.No

Q.Are the current TRP fair? A.You tell me

Disclaimer: the above is for the sake of talking. I no longer give a damn anyway.

A fellow photographer friend of mine has recently purchased an ACER

LCD monitor model AL1912 and he's having problems with the color

management.

I have calibrated the monitor using Adobe Gamma and the colour appear

to be not far off, but all the prints are coming out "washy", both

from his HP printer and from a Frontier. The problem is approximately

equivalent to -20 saturation and +15 luminosity.

Any idea what could cause this? Could it have anything to do with the

choice of phosphors?

Thanks for your help.

For me it will depend on the price and the quality (obviously, I hear you saying). What I mean is that I think the 1.6 format will not be around for much longer (flame on) and the lens could get to the end of its useful life in a short few years. I do need a wide for the 10D though.... The Sigma is just too big and heavy and I really like a UV filter in front of my glass.

David mentioned wide primes for x1.6 That would be a great idea. Give me a 10mm prime, pleeeaze. (No fish, thanks).

" I moved the tripod back for this shot so that test image was about the same size as with the 50mm."

It might not make any difference but I would leave the tripod put and resize the image.

"All the logic is in the camera body"

Not when you focus manually. But then again with a TTL viewfinder one should see what's going on. Also, if the problem is in the viewfinder then all lenses would behave the same.

I don't doubt Kevin's statements but I would repeat the test just in case I'd made a mistake.