johnmyers

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<p> Who's the longest member of Pnet and still around?</p>

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<p>I'm only 5'11" or so when I lay down, so I doubt it's me.</p>

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<p>However, there are sites that in their TOSs ask for a broader license than they really need. I've seen one -- I forget where -- that basically said, "You hereby grant the site owners a perpetual, royalty-free license to use your uploaded pictures for any purpose whatsoever." That struck me as a bit much and I declined to upload any images to that site.</p>

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<p>Craig, would you be by chance meaning Facebook?</p>

<p>I only own prime lenses. Zooms that come close to comparing with equivalent primes are too expensive, in my opinion. Also, for my subjects and style of shooting, zooms are just unnecessary for me. In fact, for 35mm/digital I only own four different primes and they've suited me just perfectly.</p>

<p>I never really found a need to label my containers. They each have such a unique odor, plus I simply remember where I put each type. Labeling within type would be a good idea, XTOL vs D76 or something, but I've finally settled on one powder developer so that doesn't really affect me either.<br>

As others have said, if you pour in fixer first and don't catch it right away, you're going to lose the roll. If you pour in a stop bath first, just rinse it really well and then put in your developer.</p>

<p>They tend to not show how many mosquito bites I receive when working in low-light marshes.</p>

<p>I would try Fuji Pro 400H. It's a gorgeous film and the colors have a bold yet soft pastel look. It's by far my favorite color negative film and would suit portraits (and anything else) very well.</p>

<p>Another vote for Tri-X. It has great character, perfect for pushing to get the speed you may need. The roll of HP5 you already have would be another good choice.</p>

<p>You could try developing in PMK Pyro to mask the grain a bit.</p>

<p>XTOL, D76 or ID11 will be great to start out with, and potentially keep using for the rest of your life. The results are fantastic.</p>

<p>The camera will be fine at those temperatures. I've shot at -45F without a single problem. As others have said, put the camera in a zip up plastic bag before you enter a warmer climate so the condensation forms on the bag and not the camera.</p>

<p>I'd get a used Nikon N80 for $50. Wonderful camera and manual focusing is easy enough through the viewfinder.</p>

<p>I would buy a Mamiya 7 II and document my entire journey up K2, and hopefully the way down as well. In addition to that, I would make a nice long trip to Patagonia and Antarctica.</p>

<p>I use both film and digital, each for different subjects and subsequent visions of how I want the final image.</p>

<p>I'm not fooled by a persons name when viewing a photograph. It doesn't matter at all who took it, I know what I like and I know what speaks to me. If a famous photographer doesn't hit the mark, so be it. If a student or unknown photographer hits the mark, so be it.</p>

<p>It totally depends on what scene I am shooting and what kind of contrasts I am looking for. If I am shooting night scenes with Pan F and want detail in the deep shadows, I'll expose it at ISO 20 and develop in D-76 1:2 for 8.5 minutes @70F. If the scene is exceptionally contrasty without many midtones to muddy, I may develop at 1:3, adjust development time accordingly and do a semi-stand or dilute/static process. If the scene is an overcast day, I may shoot at ISO 50 and even introduce a yellow or orange filter...maybe even a red, if it's REALLY gray but Pan F is naturally fairly contrasty. It totally depends on the contrast you wish to achieve, so you must test your film and development to see what changes give you the look you want. Your metering technique must be accurate and consistant to get any sort of results to learn from.</p>

<p>Awesome, thanks Jon Hall. I was just about to contact them.</p>

<p>Here is an example of some editing I have done to your original photograph, Dan. All I did was adjust levels, add a few points of saturation, and dodge and burn some key highlights and shadows. It took all of five minutes to do, so it could look even better given more time. When I first saw your image, I honestly didn't find it to be very attractive. I think the flat lighting spoiled it for me, but once it had been cleaned up...it truly grew on me. I absolutely love how you've included the car in the bottom left corner and to me that corner holds up the rest of the image - it adds so much life and warmth, through you capturing that car and those people. Good job. Anyway, here's the edited shot - feel free to dislike my edits, as it is your photograph to begin with ;)</p>

<p><img src="http://f.imagehost.org/0836/00VV9n-209903584-edit.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Save the money for the D4.</p>

<p>OK, just read your above comment....looks like you agree ;)</p>

<p>Take the expensive stuff and leave the lesser items at home. No sense in spending all that money on good gear if you're not going to use it on something as potentially rewarding as this trip may prove to be (photography wise). If it will make you feel more comfortable, buy some camera insurance before you go.</p>

<p>I've been using the D50 for years as my only DSLR and it's a fantastic camera. Very capable and the AF isn't bad. Higher ISOs also look really good.</p>

<p>The best bang for the buck is by far the N80. I wouldn't worry about durability...mine has been up and running flawlessly for the last decade. Since I don't photograph sports, the AF is perfectly fast for me.</p>

<p>Hello John</p>

<p>What kind of shooting in particular do you want to do? I'd really suggest a good prime wide angle if it will fit your style. I have the 20mm 2.8D and find it to be just an incredible lens. I could never get rid of it, and I rarely even do landscapes. I find it to give a dramatic perspective with very little distortion. It's definately a highly corrected lens and worth every penny.</p>

<p>Not sure why you're not satisfied with the 50mm's sharpness. What's your technique in using that lens? If that lens isn't sharp enough for you then most any lens won't be. If you didn't get a faulty one, then I'd take a look at how you're using it.</p>

<p>As for a lens to buy...perhaps a 20mm 2.8? On DX it'd be about 30mm so it won't be bad for portraits in tight spots and the distortion is really quite minimal. The 20mm 2.8D is really a fantastic lens.</p>

<p>I'd have to agree with Matthew, really sounds like an aperture jam or malfunction due to the hard impact.</p>

<p>To me, and probably a few more people, an image is viewable only when it achieves the vision the photographer had set out to achieve in the first place. If this requires editing to get the final work, such as W. Eugene Smith's absolutely masterful darkroom printing did, then so be it and there's nothing wrong with that.</p>