rgerraty

M6. Leica's most successful model. Wonderful camera. Ingenious metering. I love my M2 but hated the view through the

VF of an M3. I love using a handheld meter too. Your brief to us means an M6.

<p>Thank you Ludwig. This last of yours Eddie is very beautiful. And I liked your first page black and white too.</p>

<p>Monochrom and 28mm lens</p><div></div>

Thanks Karim. And I agree very much with David W Griffin. Initially I hated the M9 LCD but after a time I couldn't

remember what the problem was. The fact is it is no use for checking critical focus, but I only need to do that if I have

some doubt about the lens itself, which I almost never have. Or if I'd dropped the camera, which I never have.

Sorry Bill. I was busy getting through that last 45 minutes video. I am surprised at how fair and insightful most have been

about this camera here and on RFF. I just now worked out what POS means. I think not. No AA filter and optically

corrected lenses: I think that's pretty good. I reckon this camera is not pitched at current Leica owners. Kaufmann is no

fool. Leica AG has a strategy. Good luck to them.

I'm not so upset by the M9 jpegs, but I've not shot many and I haven't printed any. The M9 black and white jpegs are

good, often very good. I'm not sure Karim what it is you say about filters and ISO with raw. For white balance in raw I

have sometimes used a Whibal card. Indoors at night it can produce a disturbingly natural effect that I don't really like. At

other times it can be very useful. I generally prefer the M9's As shot WB to the Auto WB in Lightroom.

<p>The ZM 25 Biogon is stunning and great value. It isn't small. The VC is tiny, but mine flares a bit too easily. Have a look at the long running ZM 25 Biogon pictures thread on rangefinderforum.com. Some great pictures there. Have a look at the gorgeous Swedish summer scene in the third picture down.<br /> http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124134</p>

<p>The M is bigger as in deeper in the body. The review I just read in the latest Black & White tells me that the low noise exposure comes in at 1/30s or anything slower. If that double exposure time was slowing down my 1/15, 1/8 and 1/4s shots I'd find that maddening. I would then definitely go with the ME. As it is I have the M9-P and Monochrom and will be sticking with them as long as possible.</p>

<p>Very nice shot Ludwig.<br>

Out the back:</p><div></div>

The marvellous English language seems to be evolving faster than ever Mukul. I marvel at the range and depth (and

beauty) of your acquaintance and family and know myself that regular contact with young people, not just my own

children, is the only way to keep up.

<p>My M2 (1958) doesn't do this, or any other M I have. Good advice from Stephen and Mukul. Except Mukul missed the opportunity to use 'whomsoever' which is word a bit like an M3's 1/15s.</p>

Thanks Brian for that very comprehensive discussion of the wonderful C Sonnar and it's forebears.

<p>Focus shift is where the point of focus changes depending on the aperture of the lens. For instance, for the only lens I've tested, my particular ZM C Sonnar 50 at 1m is front focussed by 1cm at ƒ1.5, spot on at about ƒ2.2 and back focussed be a couple of cm at ƒ2.8 and ƒ4. Focus shift even with that C Sonnar is worse once you know about it and likely more noticeable with digital. I have been happily shooting my tabbed 50 Summicron for 38 years. It is not known for any degree of focus shift, but only this year I tested it and found that it was out by 5cm at 1m wide open. I have had that fixed, but all those years I took some great pictures with that lens, including at wide apertures. Body sway, luck and misfocus ironed out the effects of the fixed fault and I just never noticed it.</p>

Not usual. The simple body cap that comes with the camera doesn't have much to it that would be likely to foul the

rangefinder sensor arm. An older style M cap with a metal plate on the back probably wouldn't either. Check that cap

against another to see if there is some excess of plastic somewhere. Try not to put it back on till you've checked that out.

If all inside looks OK and the appropriate frame lines come up and the RF seems to work OK and the pictures are sharp

you should be fine. I suppose there's nothing wrong with the mount itself....

<p>Click on this for higher resolution if you want to see it. Monochrom with version 4 Summicron 50.<br>

<a title="L1002327.jpg by Richard, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7119/13819394943_dcbe5f217b_z.jpg" alt="L1002327.jpg" width="426" height="640" /></a></p>

<p>Great stuff Jerry. Beautifully presented. That MS 50 1.1 is a very attractive proposition. My C Sonnar cured me of wanting another Summilux and I hope to resist investing in a Noctilux ever. The form factor of the MS optical is a significant draw factor for me if I want to try close to f1.</p>

Thanks Ludwig. I do like yours too. I remember the first time I made a similar shot of graphic structures and shadows on a

wall. Yours reminds me of Paul Klee. Robin's white fence is a beauty, including the title. I do that number thing with white

picket fences. We are all descended from Paul Strand on that front.

<p>With Charlie starting the thread I had to think tree trunk. Took this an hour ago. Beautiful autumn day in Melbourne. M9 with the Elmar M 50, and I took a monopod with me for some depth of field in case I wanted it. 1/30s at ƒ8. ISO 160 (Base ISO).</p>

<p>Great framing by your grandson Charlie. My daughter took one of me framed against a fence and part of the house that bowled me over, M6 and 35 Summicron when she was 4.</p>

<p><a title="L9991603.jpg by Richard, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/13482924704_1019503aa0_z.jpg" alt="L9991603.jpg" width="435" height="640" /></a></p>

He can take in his beak

 

Food enough for a week

 

But I'm damned if I see how the helican.

<p>Hong Kong.</p><div></div>

Arthur, you can get great black and white from the x100 and from the Merrill DP2, and from the M9 and no doubt a lot of

other cameras. There is a terrific thread on RFF started by a Merrill owner trying not to buy the Monochrom. It is an M9

black and white thread. Some Monochrom owners posted theirs and honestly questioned whether they needed to go to

the Monochrom at all. I have both and I have been without the M9 for a month getting a new sensor. Next week it comes

back and I reckon the Monochrom will be on the shelf for a month. I've read, maybe Steve Huff, that the black and white

from the M240 is as good as the Monochrom. I don't think there is a proper comparison anywhere online yet. For me the

M9 is fine for black and white up to 1600 depending on lighting. Mitch Alland on RFF makes a good case for limiting ISO

to 640 and increasing exposure in Lightroom even for colour night shots.

 

One thought exercise for a Monochrom owner is to consider whether they would buy it again if they lost it or broke it. I

would have no hesitation. I like doing podium shots of my colleagues and street shots and architectural shots and this

camera is perfect for that sort of thing. And there's the form factor, identical to the M9. I don't want a body any bigger and

I don't want a camera where I am in menus much at all. My wife even gave me permission to buy it. Life is short and I

have no regrets getting the Monochrom. I've spent more on lawyers in the last month than I did on this camera. That

expense my wife put down to our defence budget and we mustn't lament it. I don't. I just go out for a walk with the

Monochrom and take more photos.

<p>More on Ektar 100 from my 82 year old jewel:</p><div></div>

(lapisble)

<p>Thanks Jim. Riding my bike home from work I saw this and had to stop.</p>

<p>Time for another picture in this thread. This one following in Jim's footsteps.</p><div></div>