clemens_eulig
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Posts posted by clemens_eulig
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Today I purchased a Bronica SQ-am with the ae-prism, but I am missing
the correct user manual. I only own the SQ-ai-manual. The functions
are clear, but I still cannot figure out what the small silver
pushbutton in the right left of the motordrive-dail is for. When
pushing it, the camera moves film forwards or backwards, I do not
know which direction. And what does the red LED above the button tell
me? Maybe someone an tell me?
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Should be no problem to get some Rodinal. What do you recommend as development time?
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Says nothing about 1:3 dillutions....
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Primarily I am looking for development times for Neopan Acros and
Ilford Perceptol 1:3 or ID-11 1:3. I am also interested in any
recommendations using and developing neopan acros.
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Thanks Scott, that really helped. (But I have to add, most of the portraits are made with Tri-x and HC-110, and the homepage isn't finished, sorry, I'm too busy.)
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I've read an article about the comparison of Tmax 100 and Neopan
Acros which said, that the perfomance was nearly equal. But it said
nothing about Ilford's Delta 100, which I normally use. I never tried
any other B/W-material at that speed, 'cause Delta 100 gave me very
pleasing results, and there is really no reason for me to change, but
anyway: which of these has the best performance?
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I recently bought a MF 2/135 Pre-Ai Nikkor which has been converted
to Ai. The diaphragm lever has been shortened about a milimeter, is
this correct? The lens and the diaphragm seen to work very well, but
when turning the lens around its axis or shaking it a little bit,
there is a strange noise comming from the area of the diaphragm which
sounds like a spring or a small metal piece moving and slightly
scratching a metal surface. This is no sound any of my other lenses
make. But I have heard this before on a cheap vivitar lens, that has
been repaired before. Has something in this lens not been attached
correctly, or does someone has any idea of what this could be, maybe
a common problem in these lenses.
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Oh, I am not worried, I just wanted to know.
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Not really an important question, but it interests me somehow: I own
two Nikon F3 and I found a four digits long code printed in black on
black which is right under the lever which is for removing the back
(so it is olny visible after removing it). Does this tell me
something about the camerabody? It seems to have nothing in common
with the serial number.
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Is the Maco 820 easy to use? The website says something about inserting the 135 sized film in darkness, while the 750c can be handled like any other ordinary film...
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Does anyone have any experience with this infrared-film? I would like
to try this out for portraits, but since I have to specially order
this film, I would like to know a little bit more about it. AFAIK
skin tones become very dark, when using IR-material, which is an
effect I really like if it suitable for the motive but which I never
reached with ordinary B/W-Films and filters.
Flashlight electronics manufacturer
in Lighting Equipment
Posted
I am looking for flashlight electronics (and fitting bulbs) to
asseble a "special purpose" flashlight myself. Is there any
manufacturer known to produce and sell these things?