charliexia

oops... actually the previous image was shot with the EF 85mm f1.2 USM L MKII

 

this image is shot with the EF 50mm f1.2 USM L<div></div>

i have both lenses, and shot portraits with them wide open for available light portraiture on my 5D. from my experience the 85mm 1.2 is sharper, and exhibit less CA wide open v.s. the 50 1.2. under the same conditions. however 50 is good for situations when you want a wider POV. below are samples of the same event shot with the two different lenses.<div></div>

Let's hope you don't blind the skater!

hi Aaron, i don't think it's AF bandding, which i have experianced on my 5D only on ISO 3200 with the 50mm 1.4. the paterens are more straight and horizontal. see attached. :-)<div></div>

hum... hard to say, there were now MRI machines in sight, although the shot was for an event held at the science and technology museum in Shanghai. perhaps i should go back with a compass and check :-)

has anyone else experianced this on their camera before? b.t.w. the 16-35mm MKII is a very nice lens!

hum... not that i know of... but there were a lot of people with walky talkies around, and maybe a coupple of power drills.

does anyone know what could have caused these strange wave like patterns on

shots taken by the 5D?

 

Exposure details:

 

Canon 5D with 16-35mm f2.8 MKII

ISO 100, 1/30s, f/9.0 zoom at 16mm

 

converted in Adobe Camara Raw

exposure adjustment: 0.0

shadows: 5

bightness: 50

contrast: +25

saturation: 0

 

i don't see any paterns from other shots taken that day, would be interested in

any suggestions on what could have caused this artifact, and has anyone else

seen this sort of paterns before.

"-means seconds. so 0.6" means 0.6 seconds and 1.3" means 1.3"

when you increas you ISO by one stop your shutter speed should twice as fast. ceteris paribus. so if at ISO 100 your shutter speed is 1.3" and you switch your ISO to 200, keeping apature, focus and the metering consistant your shuttery speed should be about 0.6"

i second john jovic. I have the 60 ct4 and use it exclusivly in manual mode. i sync the metz with my Canon 5D via a pair of pocketwizards. it makes a very portable out of studio setup.

Thanks for the tip Myra, Thanks for the tip! I'll give it a go and see what happens!

have you looked into the Toyo VX 125? It's my faviourate camera for archeticture. it is much lighter compaired to the Toyo G series, which I use in the studio. its bellow is made from a special ultra flexible fabric, so you don't need to change between wide angle bellows and standard bellows. The saunders quick release plate and the telescoping monorail makes the setting up process quick when you are rushed for time during sunset, and the standards can be brought very close to each other so that you don't need to use a recessed lens board for anything longer than 58mm.

 

you can find more info. here: http://www.camerareview.com/templates/reviews.cfm?camera_id=33

haha... reminds me of "the gods must be crazy"!

if you like the FOV of the 50mm on your 20D, then get the 85mm. this is my favourite focal length for portraits

was the wall evenly lit? and what was the meetering mode you used?

try backing up when you are shooting with the 100mm so that it covers the same area on the wall as the 50mm. and don't shoot in macro mode.

My Metz Mecablitz 60ct4 decided to blow up on my today... it was quite dramatic,

but no one was hurt in the process... and i managedd to finish the shoot with

out using flash. However i love my Metz... and need it back in working order

asap... does anyone know where i can go in China, or in Asia to get it repaired?

 

thanks in advance!

I use the 40 CT* a lot in architecture and interior photography. It's one of my most used lenses in the hasselblad kit. Yes it does have pronounced wide angel distortion along the edges, but thats what you get from a wide angle lens.

 

the type of distortion i find objectionable is barrow distortion, where straight lines are curved on the extreme edges of the picture, this type of distortion is very well controlled in the 40 CT*

 

if you choose to by the 40 CT* make sure it comes with the rubber lens hood, and what ever filters you need to use. as replacements are very hard to find.

 

examples of the 40 CT* can be found in my portfolio

i'll have to go with the 85 1.2, followed by the 70-200 2.8.

unless you shoot every day in the jungle, or in the sahara, go with the 5D. aside from points mentioned above, it's also lighter to carry around.

Hi Anna

<br><br>

Your selection of lights depends on your photography style. Personally my approach to shooting interiors is 'less is more'. I try to preserve as much of the ambiant lighting as possible, and use fills only when i absolutly have to. A heavy tripod and long exposures is a must in what i do. When i need the extra fill, I carry with me five Comet 40F II 400w storobes with softboxes. These strobe heads are very small, and easy to hide. When i shoot interiors i only use the modeling light, which balances nicely with my T64. and besides most interiors are light by tungsten.

<br><br>

But for me the most important thing for shooting interior is not the lighting system, but haveing a proper colour meter and a good set of gels and filters to get the colour balance right.<br><br>

<img src='http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3075836-lg.jpg'>

actually they are links to event photograph i've taken recently,

thought i'd save some space on Photo.net by posting the links to the

galleries. didn't realize people would accuse me of spaming?!

<a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/647'>roller

disco</a><br>

<a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/659'>bar rouge</a><br>

<a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/654'>JZ</a><br>

<a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/650'>bananas IV</a><br>

<a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/632'>bananas

III</a><br><a href='http://www.smartshanghai.com/gallery/641'>DJ

Coburn</a>

My wide angle of choice for the Hasselblad is the 40mm, it's my bread earner as i shoot mostly architecture and i perfer my lines straight i.e. w/o barrow distortion. I've considered buying the SWC, however after comparining it with other cameras on the market I decided to purchase the Cambo Wide 580.

 

If you don't mind the fish eye distortion, and the high price tag, then maybe the 30 is right for you. I've used it before for shooting skate boarding... and it's an awesome lens!

p.s. parties really look a lot better with bounce flash, so i want to use it as much as possible. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/3877423">here's an example shot with a point and shoot fuji 2800z on a Metz 45-ct4.</a>

HAHAHAHA!!! yes... i'm perfectly insane thank you! and thanks for the link! it's just what the doctor ordered!