mpo

<p>If you are willing to spend some money, you can end all your troubles buying a Developing Timer with Temperature Compensation like this RH Design <br>

http://www.rhdesigns.co.uk/darkroom/html/processmaster.html<br>

It's all you'll ever need, I bought mine six years ago and I completely forgot about temperature issues.</p>

<p>The CRIS adapter (and others as well) use a tiny diode, a Schottky I think, to achieve the voltage drop. As this is an active electronic devices, there is a chance this diode is no longer working and the adapter will not work no matter the battery or camera you try with. A voltmeter and a small 330-560 Ohm resistor will help to diagnose.</p>

<p>I do not know if it hits the mirror, but that lens is not worth the risk of damaging (or modifying) your camera. This is a lens designed by Sigma in the 90s and adopted by Leica. It is not close to be a piece of garbage, but it's not up to the quality you would expect from a Leica lens (distortion is very high). Would you risk your camera for a Sigma lens? </p>

<p>Pay attention to the Luftwaffe Elmar, that lens alone may be worth three times that price (and double this price if minty).<br>

That said, I offer you the same $405 just for that lens (he he he, who knows...)</p>

<p>Gentlemen, a camera light leak on a positive image would look whitish, not dark.<br>

Interesting, no clue about its cause. Film issue? Foma perhaps?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The new bottles are a softer plastic, and round edged instead of the sharp edge I remember from 40 years ago.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>In any case, my comment was alluding to the modern, rounded, bottles.</p>

<p>I had a similar leakage and its origin was the deformation of the bottle produced by the partial vacuum produced by the oxygen been absorbed by the remaining developer. The plastic bottle did not stand a sharp edge produced by this shrinking and got a small crack...</p>

<p>BTW HC-110 and Ilfotec HC are very similar, but not the same. Ilfotec requires times 10 to 20% longer.</p>

<p>No filter, right?</p>

<p>Hi Todd, frustrating, yes.<br>

Remember that the app was already working before the deletion and reinstallation. If you just delete the app while frozen it's a different situation and may not work the same way. <br>

Regards,<br>

Marcelo</p>

<p>Hi Todd. Good question. I deleted the app and started from scratch, this time everything went smoothly, no hangs and is working ok.<br>

Thanks again for this app.<br>

MP</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Yours looks like a very good application, thank you!<br>

You are fortunate, because my phone got hung too.<br>

My phone is an iPhone 4 (not "s") 32GB, IOS 7.1.2 (11D257), hardware model 3,1. I installed the app, made a quick test and seemed to work ok. Then I tried to activate the voice control, the phone showed a black microphone figure and "Starting up..." message... and the app froze, just the app not the phone. I was not able to un-froze the app. Maybe I didn't try hard enough...<br>

I shot down the phone, then turned it on and restarted the app. The app started on the same screen as before, still showing "Starting up..." and the black mic, after a second, without any other action, the mic turned green and the screen showed the words "OK" "NEXT" etc. When I spoke the words they were recognized swiftly. The app seems to work ok now.<br>

I looked into the Diagnostics and Use log, but cannot identify any crash entry related to your app.<br>

I hope this helps.<br>

MP</p>

 

<p>Not me, but I got a Mr. Zhou half-case that has a "third lug" to hang the CL as a honest camera.</p>

<p><em>...The pattern appears as white/clear lines on negatives. They span the entire width of the roll at regular intervals appearing mostly between frames and on the bottom half of the images (as above)...</em><br /> <em>...Its almost as though the top of the image (above the lines) is over exposed, whilst the bottom half (below the line) is "normal".</em><br /> <br /> Maybe you didn't wind the film tight enough after removing it from the camera. Then you can get a fogging pattern like the one you describe. If so, the defective part of the film is the lighter area in the positive, not the darker.<em><br /></em></p>

<p>BTW, part of the problem seems to be a partially filled tank (or whatever they did use). The foam marks are present only on the upper fifth of the image, suggesting that was the level of the developer. </p>

<p>Certainly, it looks like foam footprint.<br>

To produce these dark marks, the foam must be present in the developer bath and prevent development in some regions. Then, the fixer bath removed all the (undeveloped) silver from those regions and they turned completely clear and thus look as black spots on the positive.<br>

Never seen this before, and I thought I've made every possible mistake in the past...<br>

Drying problems would produce white spots on the print.</p>

 

<p>Absolutely not.</p>

<p>I use a Magnifax 4 and it's a truly excellent machine. It handles up to 6x9 cm format, has that focus assist device and its very robust. It replaced a beautiful Durst M605 (up to 6x6 only). However, for 35mm I use a more "compact" enlarger, a V35. </p>

<p>It looks like an imprinting of the protective paper texture on the film. I think this is related to the pigment used to blacken the paper. I've seen this in a batch of LOMO/Shangai films (new, not expired) and also in some expired HP5+ (in this case, just the numbers on the paper were imprinted as ghost images). </p>

<p>It seems quite evident that the camera represented whith the action figure is a Leica M3 (or M2). That said, the Yashica YF presented by David is a very close match too, thanks for introducing that camera to us (or to me, at least). </p>

<p>Agree with Jerry, it's a Leica M3 (or M2).</p>

<p>Hi Rajdeep, I have the same concerns about buying bulk film on-line and storing it for future use without knowing if it has been damaged by X-ray during transport. My solution was to buy a single roll of high sensitivity film along with the bulk film so they are shipped together. When I receive the shipment, I use the sample roll for non important photographs or just develop it without exposing it and look for traces of mishandling. This way I would be able to detect if the film was damaged during transport (X-rays, temperature). Never had a problem so far.</p>

 

<p>Rick, thanks for the link! very interesting article.</p>

<p>Hi David,<br>

If you already measured the correct voltage (12 V at the lamp side), there's not much to say about voltages.<br>

OTOH, you already blew two of your very valuable 13139 bulbs, so my first advice would be that any further testing be made with any other common 12 V and GZ6.35 base bulb you may get at the hardware store. That said, I'd check two possible causes.<br>

First, check if the enlarger has a real copper-wound voltage transformer and not an electronic device to perform this task. If it was a traditional transformer, no further testing needed. If it was an electronic transformer, then you must get a true-RMS voltmeter and look for a way to adjust the output of this device to 12V-RMS (there are may ways to measure AC voltages, especially if the wave form is not sinusoidal, lamps care about RMS voltage). Alternatively, you can plug a test lamp and see what happens, if it survives, then voltage is probably OK.<br>

Second (an most likely), you may have a defective batch of lamps. Are both blown lamps of the same origin? Have you touched the bulbs with your bare fingers? Halogen bulbs do not like any contamination on the surface of the bulb itself, given the extremely high temperatures reached by the glass. Any trace of finger-grease on the bulb will cause a failure of the lamp (and I'm talking about the bulb that contains the filament, not the reflector). This is the reason why many specialized lamps come with a plastic glove to handle it. If your remember having touched the bulbs or they were not sealed-new, there is a very probable cause.<br>

Finally, check all the contacts, connections and wiring, bad contacts are a natural enemy of lightbulbs. </p>

 

<p>Remember that we still have Ilfotec-HC from ILFORD.</p>

<p>No that's not a VALOO.<br /> It serves a similar function, but it's called VALAU.<br /> Regards,<br /> Marcelo</p>